the Best Hill Station of Gujarat

Saputara literally means Abode of the Snakes. But don’t panic. Saputara is not a place full of snakes.
There is a sacred snake image on the banks of the river Sarpagana worshipped by the Adivasis (tribal people) during festivals.Saputara is a beautiful, planned, hill station in Gujarat.
Not too well known, it is clean and not too crowded.
The cool climate; its motorable distance from Mumbai, Nasik, and Surat; and the beautiful roads make it a place worth visiting.

Location

Saputara is located at an altitude of 1000 metres atop the second highest plateau in the Dang forest area of the Sahyadri range in Gujarat.
The hill station is surrounded by dense forests with Adivasi villages.    

Places to See

There are plenty of places to see in and around Saputara.

Saputara Lake
 

Botanical Garden
The large 24-hectare botanical garden has more than 1,400 varieties of plants from all over India.

Gardens
There are several other gardens at Saputara – like the Lake Garden, the Step Garden and the Rose Garden.

Sunrise Point

Besides offering a good view of the sunrise, Sunrise Point offers the finest view of Saputara and adjoining Malegoan.You have to walk about 1.5 km.


Sunset Point

This point offers a breathtaking view of the Dang Forest.
You can also spot Adivasi (tribal) villages in the thick forests.
The Ropeway

You can travel to the Sunset Point by ropeway.
The ten-minute ride over the valleys is breathtaking.
A rope ride on a moonlit night is an unforgettable experience.
  


Purna Wildlife Sanctuary
You can visit the Purna Wildlife Sanctuary in the Mahal Bardipura forest, 60 kms from Saputara.
The sanctuary is full of  bamboo glades and sparkling rivers .

Vansda National Park
This former private forest of the Maharaja of Vansda is a small forest covering an area of 24 sq km.
But it has leopards, python, four-horned antelope, pangolin, rusty-spotted cats and giant squirrels. You have to obtain prior permission from the Chief Wildlife Warden of Gandhinagar, or DFO, Ahwa, to visit the park.

Gira Falls

Just 52 km away from Saputara , the Gira Falls is a must see attraction – especially during the monsoons.

 Ambapada
This is a typical Dangi Village near the Gira Falls.
Here you can see the Adivasi tribals in their own environment.

Unnai Mata temple and Hot Springs
This is a historical temple.
You can take a bath in the hot water spring here.

Museum
The Danga Cultural and Ecological Museum is a small museum containing a number of objects relating to the local tribes.

Accommodation

There are a few private hotels where you can stay.
However, the Gujarat Tourism’s hill resort offers good, clean and economical accommodation with cottages and log huts too.

Climate

The climate here is cool and refreshingly crisp, with the highest temperature, even in summer, being 28 degree C.
If you want to get away from the heat of the metros, summer is the best time to visit this hill station.
However, the rains do add more charm to the place.

Fact File

Road (distances from Saputara)
Bilimora                             112 kms.
Mumbai                             250 kms. (via  Nasik, Dindori, vani)
Nasik                                  76 kms.                                                                    
Pune                                 275 kms.                                                                    Shirdi                                166 kms.                                                                     
Surat                                 164 kms.
Valsad                              128 kms.
All kinds of public conveyance are available. Railway Stations
The nearest stations are:                                                                                                
Bilimora on Western Railway and                                                                      
Nasik Road on Central Railway.

Recommendation

Saputara is a wonderful week end getaway from Mumbai and other cities of Maharashtra and Gujarat.
The road is very good and picturesque.
You can even visit the dense forests and the Adivasi tribals.

Matheran

Matheran is a no-vehicle zone… so go ahead and walk in the clouds at this hill-station.
Prized, protected: Rain clouds, dense mist
It is the only hill-station where any kind of public or private transport is prohibited by law; and the prohibition enforced effectively. Besides the buses, cars and other four-wheelers and two-wheelers such as motorbikes, even bicycles are not allowed inside Matheran.
As for the plastic bottles and carry-bags littered by irresponsible tourists, this hill-station tackled the problem long ago. In November 2002, Prof H.Y. Mohan Ram, Chairman of a Government Expert Committee, declared Matheran clean and free of garbage, and the cleanest hill-station of India.

Location

Matheran is 110 km, about two-and-a-half-hour drive, from Mumbai. The road is good and motorable round the year. But as vehicles are not allowed inside, you have to leave your vehicle at Dasturi Naka, 3 km from Matheran, which has a good parking lot.
Next you either walk up to Matheran or hire a pony. The journey is really enjoyable. The narrow, shaded pathways winding through dense forests rejuvenate tired lungs with fresh air.
Matheran is perched amidst the Sahyadri hills (Western Ghats) 803 meters above sea level. The 7.35-sq-km town has a population of around 4,000. Surprisingly, it also has a railway station.

Discovery

Matheran was discovered by Sir Hugh Poyntz Malet, the Collector of Thane district, in 1850. But it was Lord Elphinstone, the Governor of Bombay, who made Matheran popular. He visited the place in 1855 and literally fell in love with it. He built a bungalow named Elphinstone Lodge and introduced roadways.

The Toy Train

Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy conceived the imaginative idea of a 2-ft narrow-gauge railway from Neral to Matheran (20 km). He imported three specially made engines from Germany in 1905. The railway was opened in 1907.
The train chugs slowly along the age-old track, passing through dense forests, grassy hillsides, vertical cliffs, plains and rolling plateaus.
The torrential rains and landslides of July 26, 2005, badly damaged the tracks and the train service had to be suspended.
The Matheran train, which will be 100 years old on April 16, 2007, is likely to attain World Heritage status this year.

Sightseeing

Mahatma Gandhi Road, the town’s main thoroughfare, is lined by shops of all shapes and sizes. You can buy the famous local sweet chikki, as also honey; riding boots, shoes, sandals, slippers, walking sticks and local handicrafts are available too.
Matheran has around 33 lookout points that offer spectacular views of the sunrise and sunset, and of the plains below and across the Western Ghats.
Alexander Point, Charlotte Lake, Chowk Point, Coronation Point, Echo Point, Hart Point, Khandala Point, Lord’s Point, Louisa Point, Monkey Point, Mount Barry, One Tree Hill, Panorama Point, Porcupine Point and Shivaji’s Ladder are some of the interesting names given to these spots.
You can hike to these points or hire a pony.

Best time to visit

Matheran is pleasant throughout the year. But the best time is between October and May after the monsoons. You will see plenty of waterfalls, mist-covered valleys, vibrant greenery and floating clouds.
The rain clouds swoop down to kiss the Sahyadris. There are heavy rainfalls. The plants and trees sparkle in their finest greenery. Dense mist and patches of clouds play hide-and-seek. The entire vista acquires a fairytale mystique.
Cotton clothing is sufficient during summer. Carry light woollens in winter; and raincoats and rubber shoes during the monsoons.

Where to stay

There are several resorts to suit all budgets. The MTDC holiday resort is located near Dasturi Naka. Other resorts include Brightlands Resorts, Byke Retreat, Lord’s Central, Regal, Royal, Rugby, Usha Ascot and Verandah in the Forest.

Kodaikanal

The Tamil word Kodaikanal which means ‘Gift of the Forest’ aptly describes this quaint, little, hill station. No other name could describe this place better!

Nestling deep amidst thick forests, Kodaikanal is a unique hill station where you would love to spend a few days. You would love to walk through the wooded forests. Perhaps take a bath in one of the splashing waterfalls. Row in the lake. Try horse riding. Or simply admire the endless varieties of flaura and fauna.

Covering an area of 21.45 square kilometers, Kodaikanal is situated on the southern tip of upper Palani hills in the Western Ghats of Tamil Nadu at an altitude of about 2133 metres. Except during the monsoons, from October to December, when the monsoons really pour, the weather is fairly uniform throughout the year.

History

There is archaeological evidence of the existence of human beings in this area during the pre-Christ years.
Prehistoric megalith creations – dolmens which are large stone constructions – dating from well before written history, earthen pots and other artifacts which have been found here prove that the earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Paliyans and Pulyans tribes.
Relics and artifacts of the Paliyans can be seen in the Shenbaganur Museum. A few descendents of the Paliyans tribe can also be seen near Kukkal Caves.

However, the earliest modern day settlers of Kodaikanal were the 14th century migrants from the foothills of Palani who escaped to Kodaikanal from the invasions of Tippu Sultan.

Lieutenant B. S. Ward, a British surveyor, was the first European to visit Kodaikanal in 1821. He was looking for a clean and healthy place around Madurai, which would provide relief to the missionaries and other foreigners, living and working in south Tamil Nadu, from the summer heat and the occasional epidemics.

There were no roads and visitors had to travel by horse, bullock-cart or palanquin. The forests were infested with thieves, robbers and wild animals. Yet, Kodaikanal had such a wonderful climate and pristine charm that it became popular amongst the immigrant population and the princely families.

In 1834, the Collector of Madurai climbed up from Devadanapatti and built a small bungalow at Kodaikanal. By the second half of the 19th century, churches and other colonial structures started popping up in and around Kodaikanal. Examples of some beautiful structures are the Union Church built in 1895; La Providence Church for Anglicans built in 1860; and a large number of private bungalows.

In 1863, Sir Vere Hendry Levinge (1819-1885), who was then the Collector of Madurai, created the 60 acres Kodai Lake by damming three streams flowing through. He stocked the lake with fish. He also brought the first boat from Tuticorin. After his retirement, he settled down in Kodaikanal.

A boat club was formed in Kodaikanal in 1890. A new boathouse was constructed in 1910. Since May 1929, the club has permitted tourists to join the club as temporary members and avail of boating facilities.

Missionaries established church properties. Many of the ruling princes built summer holiday-homes. Clubs, school and hotels came up. Civic amenities were introduced. Kodaikanal developed slowly, but steadily. Kodaikanal is the only hill station in India developed by the Americans. They also established the famous Kodaikanal International School.

The extension of the railway line from Chennai to Tirunelveli (598 kilometres) made Kodaikanal really popular. A station was built at Ammainayakkanur – 80 kilometres from Kodaikanal. (This was later renamed Kodai Road.) The first steam engine arrived in 1875 and made the journey to Kodaikanal far easier. Though construction of the road was completed in 1914, it was opened to the public only two years later – in 1916. And suddenly, Kodaikanal was thrown open to the general public.

Kodai Lake

The centre of all activities in Kodaikanal is the beautiful star shaped Kodai Lake. A 5 kilometres long road skirts the 60 acres lake.

Rowing boats, pedal boats and other kinds of boats belonging to T.T.D.C., Boat Club and Carlton hotel can be hired on an hourly basis.

Fishing is permitted. But prior permission has to be obtained from the Inspector of Fisheries.

Pony rides for a quarter, half and full round of the lake are available. Ponies can also be hired on hourly basis. Bicycles also are available on rent.

Bryant Park

The beautiful Bryant Park, stretching across 20.5 acres of undulating greenery is situated in the heart of the town. It was planned and given shape in 1908 by Mr. H.D. Bryant, a forest officer of Madurai.

The Park is situated on the eastern side of the lake, well within walking distance. It has a collection of over 300 species of plants. The Park contains a 150 years old Eucalyptus tree and a historic Bodhi tree. A portion of the Park contains 740 varieties of roses.

The glasshouse in the Park displays exotic indoor plants and some very good plant arrangements. There is a large lake with water lilies and other aquatic plants.

The Park also has the rare Kurinji plant which flowers once every 12 years. The Kurinji last bloomed in 2006.

The Park authorities also sell ornamental plants at reasonable prices.

Coaker’s Walk (1 kilometre)

In 1872, Lt. Coaker cut a 1 kilometre long path along the ridge of a steep slope around Mt. Nebo on the southeastern side of Kodaikanal. The narrow, winding path offers some of the best views of the plains. There is a telescope house on Coaker’s Walk from where you can see distant vistas.

On a clear, cloudless day, you can see the Dolphin’s nose in the south, Pambar river valley in the southeast, Periyakulam and even the city of Madurai.

If you are lucky, you could witness the rare phenomenon called `Brachem Spectre’. When the sun is behind you and the cloud and mist in front, you could see your shadow on the clouds with a rainbow halo.

The Pillar Rocks (7 kilometres)

The three pillar-like rock boulders about 122 meters high stand next to each other. Somehow, they remind me of three giggling girls, huddled together.

It is amazing how one minute you clearly see the three pillars. Then within minutes, the mist and the clouds swirl up and cover the pillars. The pillar rocks become invisible!

Usually, early morning is the safest time to ensure visibility.

Pine Forests

The pine tree is not a native of India. It was introduced from Britain. This man-made pine forest, the floor covered with a soft, plush, natural carpet of pine needles, with pinecones lying all around, is an ideal place for picnic.

Silver Cascade Falls (8 kilometres)

The overflow of Kodai Lake has created one of the most popular spots of Kodaikanal – the 54 metres high Silver Cascade falls.

This fall is located on the Ghat road on the way from Madurai to Kodaikanal just 8 kilometres before Kodaikanal. You will see it as you enter and leave Kodaikanal.

This is also a favourite bathing spot for tourists. And this is the place you will find all kinds of photographers.

Green Valley View (5.5 kilometres)

Very near the Golf Club, the Green Valley View gives a panoramic view of the entire Vaigai Dam. The valley is very deep and dangerous. Some individuals have committed suicide here. For this reason, this place is also called “Suicide Point”. A sturdy fencing has been constructed. And you can see plenty of rhesus monkeys.

The narrow path leading to the viewpoint is lined with shops. You can purchase eatables, handicrafts and toys.

Solar Physical Observatory (32 kilometres)

The country’s only Solar Physical Laboratory, the Kodaikanal Observatory of the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, was founded here in 1898 at the highest point in Kodaikanal at an altitude of 2343 metres in the beautiful Palani hills in Southern India. All the activities of the Madras Observatory were shifted to Kodaikanal.

Visitors can observe the stars and planetary movements during visiting hours and on prior appointments.

Kukkal Caves (40 kilometres)

The Kukkal Caves offer a beautiful campsite – ideal for trekking. You can also see traces of earliest known inhabitants of the region – the leaf clothed Paliyans.

Dolmen Circle (18 kilometres)

The Dolmen Circle is a place of great antiquity and great archaeological importance. Pre-historic remains, original burial urns and models of dolmens were unearthed in this region. These can be seen in Shenbaganur Museum.

Shenbaganur Museum (5.6 kilometres)

The Shenbaganur Museum founded in 1895 is maintained by the Sacred Heart College, a Theological Seminary. It contains a very good collection of archaeological remains and flora and fauna of the region.

A Spanish Father Ugarthe contributed his major collections to the Museum. This place also contains one of the biggest orchidariums in the country containing more than 300 species of orchids.

Other interesting spots

Among the other popular spots are Kurinji Andavar Temple – temple of Lord Murugan – the local ruling deity (3 kilometres); Dolphin’s nose – a flat projecting rock overlooking a deep yawning chasm (8 kilometres); Perumal Peak – 2440 metres high peak – a favourite of the trekkers (11 kilometres); Berijam Lake – a beautiful picnic spot (21 kilometres). There are a number of waterfalls.

Palani (62 kilometres)

One place I really love is the temple at Palani. This is one of the six abodes of Lord Subramanya or Kartick (brother of Ganesh). You can visit the temple while returning from Kodaikanal.

The temple is built atop a 140 metres high hill and can be reached either by using the steps or the recently opened electric ropeway.

During the festivals of Panguni Utthiram (March-April) and Adi Krithikai (July-August), Kavadi dancers flock to the temple in hundreds, often in a state of trance.

Conclusion

Kodaikanal, often called the Princess of Hill Stations, is a wonderful get-away from busy city life.

It is the trekker’s dream comes true. You can go off on your own exploration; walk through eucalyptus and blue gum forests; or join organized longer treks through a travel agent. You can do some fishing (but obtain a permit first), boating, horse riding and cycling.
There are large plantations where plums, pears, plantains and other fruits grow in abundance. The wooded slopes contain a wide variety of flowers, trees and plants.

Kodaikanal literally blooms up during the summer festival celebrations in May. There are different kinds of activities. A colourful annual boat pageant is also held.

Kodaikanal is the best of the three hill stations of Tamil Nadu – the other two being Ooty and Yercaud. Some visitors even consider Kodaikanal the best hill station in the country!

Most visitors come here to see the natural beauty of Kodaikanal. Spend a few days here. You will certainly return with a refreshed heart, mind and lungs.

Fact File

Nearest Airport Madurai 120 Kilometres
Nearest Railway Station Kodai Road 80 Kilometres
Distances by road (from Kodaikanal)
Chennai 520 Kilometres
Ooty 264 Kilometres
Trichy 197 Kilometres
Coimbatore 175 Kilometres
Madurai 120 Kilometres
You can view and download a map of Kodaikanal from the following sites:
http://www.mapsofindia.com/maps/tamilnadu/kodaikanal.htm
http://www.kodai.com/map2.htm

Where to stay

There are a plenty of hotels and resorts to suit all tastes and pockets. The Carlton is a five star hotel and therefore a little expensive. I am listing only a few of the better ones.

The Carlton
Lake Road, Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 240056 – 71

The Kodaikanal Club
7 Roads Junction,Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 241341

Kodai Resort Hotel
Coaker’s Walk, Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 240632, 240633

Hotel Kodai International
17/328, Lawsghat Road, Kodaikanal – 624 101. Phone: (04542) 240767

Hotel Tamil Nadu TTDC Ltd.
Fern Hill Road, Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 241336/7

Hotel Hilltop Towers
Opp Kodai International School, Kodaikanal.

Misnamed the Poor Man’s Ooty

The coffee is not an indigenous plant. Where did it came from?

Coffee was introduced into Yercaud from Arabia in the 1920s by Mr. M. D. Cockburn, then Collector of Salem. Yercaud is a small hill station perched on the Shevaroy Hills in Salem District of Tamil Nadu.

Surrounded on all sides by hot plains, the Shevaroys are a range of hills on the Eastern Ghats which rise steeply to 1624 metres (5,410 feet). The entire range, encompassing 67 tribal villages, covers an area of 384 sq. km. The total population (according to 1991 census) is 36,863.

History

The original inhabitants of the Shevaroy Hills are the tribals living in the 67 tribal villages. They are known as “Malayalis”, which in Tamil means “Hill Tribes”. Very little is known about the history of the “Malayalis” – from where they came, why and when.

One popular legend is that in the late 1700s, led by one Shevarayan, a group of farmers, from the banks of the Cauvery River in the Krishnagiri-Dharmapuri area, fled to these hills to escape the ravages of Tipu Sultan’s invading armies and settled down on the Shevaroys. Thereafter, these hills came to be known as the Shevarayan Malai (“Malai” means Hill in Tamil). Later, Shevarayan Malai was anglicized to “Shevaroy Hills”.

So far the present Yercaud is concerned, it was discovered by Mr. M. D. Cockburn, then Collector of Salem. Cockburn visited Yercaud in 1820 A.D. and put up a small hut which is now known as Grange Estate.

During the revolt of 1857, the building was fortified into a castle like building and is an important landmark today.
The Ghat road to Yercaud was sanctioned and work started in the 1850s. But work was stopped in 1857 due to the Indian Mutiny. Work on the present Ghat road from Salem to Yercaud was started in 1900 and the road was opened for motor vehicles in 1903.

However, the first motor car was brought up much earlier in a packing crate, assembled and driven around the Loop Road. After completion of the Mettur Dam on the Cauvery River in 1929, electricity came to Yercaud in 1930 and supply was extended to other Tribal Villages after 1970.

Coffee

During 1820 to 1829, Mr. M. D. Cockburn, introduced coffee from Arabia and apples and other fruits from South Africa. From here, coffee spread to all over the Nilgiris.

Coffee grows well on slopes at altitudes between 900 metres (3,000 feet) and 1,500 metres (5,000 feet). The mild temperature between 13C (56 F) and 29 C (84F), moderate rainfall between 1,270 mm (50″) and 1,524 mm (60″) distributed evenly between the Southwest and Northeast Monsoons and the high elevation on the Shevaroy hills combine to provide ideal climatic conditions for the production of high grade Coffee.

We visited a small coffee estate adjoining Yercaud. The red coffee berries were beautiful to look at, but had no taste. One has to peel off the thick skin to get to the coffee beans. But the fresh beans are slimy. They have to be washed with water to get rid of the slime. I tasted the raw beans. They had no taste. They have to be dried and roasted to turn them into the coffee seeds we use for making coffee.

Yercaud Lake

The centre of attraction is the lake. Surrounded by gardens and trees, the lake has a lovely fountain, installed by Madras Aluminium Company Limited, throwing up spurts of water. But the unimaginative advertisement on the fountain really hurts the eyes. Why Madras Aluminium Company Limited could not put a more subtle, more befitting advertisement, I really do not understand!

You can do boating in 4-seater row boats, peddle boats, or in the newer swan shaped peddle boats.

Anna Park

This is a lovely garden near the Lake.

Governent Orchidarium (2 kilometres)

If you are fond of plants or nature, you should visit the Orchidarium.
The Loop Road
The 34 kms. long Loop Road was traced by an Englishman Mr. Surgeon in 1824. It starts and ends at the Lake, covering several tribal villages including Yercaud, Nagalur, Semmanatham, Vellakadi, and Manjakuttai. A drive on the Loop Road is most enjoyable.

Shevarayan Temple (7 kilometres)

The Shevarayan Perumal Temple is perched high up near the summit of the highest peak of the Shevaroys at 1,624 metres (5,410 feet). The view from outside the Temple is panoramic and all four sides of the Shevaroys Range are clearly visible

The Shevarayan Perumal Temple is located inside a natural stone cave. The presiding deity of the temple is Ramar (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu) with his consort Cauvery Amman.

On the Southern most edge of the North-South ridge is Cauvery Peak from where on a clear day, you get a magnificent view of the Mettur Dam and the Cauvery River, located some 50 km. away.

A Temple Festival is held in May every year. It is a very colourful event with the “Malayalis” from all the 67 villages of Shevaroys attending it.

Lady’s Seat (1.5 kilometres)

This point overlooks the winding Ghat road and provides a breathtaking view of the plains and the town of Salem. The view is spectacular at night with the twinking lights of Salem. You can have a panoramic view of the plains below through the telescope mounted at the Lady’s seat.

Gent’s Seat (1.5 kilometres)

This is another point just above Lady’s Seat overlooking the winding Ghat road.

Pagoda Point (5 kilometres)

Pagoda Point is another vantage view point.

Kiliyur Falls (7 kilometres)

This 1,000 metre (3,000 feet) high water fall is situated amidst picturesque surroundings, but you have to walk a few kilometres to reach it.

The Retreat (1.5 kilometres)

This institution was started in 1945 by the brothers of Don Bosco and serves as a Novitiate House where students of the religious order stay and study.

Educational Institutions (1 and 1.5 kilometres)

The Montfort School and the Sacred Heart Convent are the two famous educational institutions at Yercaud imparting education mainly to boys and girls respectively.

Montfort Anglo-Indian Higher Secondary School was founded in 1917 by Rev. Bro. Eugene of the Montfort Brothers of St. Gabriel congregation founded by Louis Marie Grignion de Montfort of Brittany, France. Louis Marie Grignikon de Montfort was canonized a Saint in 1947.
Originally started for the sons of Europeans in the military, civil, plantation and other services, the first Indian students were admitted in 1928.
Montfort has grown into a premier boarding school in the country with 850 students studying from Standard III to Standard XII and has the most state-of-the-art facilities in academics, sports and other extra -curricular activities. Girls are admitted to Standards XI and XII.

Sacred Heart Convent, Yercaud (SHY) was founded in 1894 by Sister Valdebert Kelly and Sister Gertrude Banz of the Sisters of Saint Joseph of Cluny founded by Sister Anne Marie Javouhey in France in 1812. Sister Anne Marie Javouhey was beatified in 1950.
In 1894, several residents of Yercaud were given lessons in English, French, Music, Painting, Singing and Embroidery. Soon an English-Medium School was opened and initially both boys and girls were admitted. Now, the school has grown to over 400 Girls from Standard I to Standard X and has become an exclusive girls school renowned for its academic excellence, all round development, extra and co-curricular activities. SHY celebrated its centenary in September 1994.

Accommodation

Accomodation is available from the Star class to affordable budget class.

Fact File

Climate

The climate is uniformly cool and pleasant throughtout the year. The temperatures range from a maximum of 30 degrees Celcius to a minimum of 13 degrees Celcius.

Clothing

Light cottons with a pullover or some other light woollen in winter.

Reaching there

Airport
The nearest airport is Tiruchirapalli 180 km. away.
Other airports are Coimbatore 195 km. and Bangalore 265 km. away.

Railway Station
The nearest railway station is Salem Junction – 38 km. away.
There are a number of trains passing through. Among the most convenient trains to and from Chennai are the overnight Yercaud Express and the daytime Kovai Express. There are also a number of trains from Cochin, Trivandrum, Mangalore and Bangalore.

Road
Salem 36 km. Chennai 355 km. Bangalore 265 km. Hogenakkal 145 km.
There are frequent buses from Salem. Bus services are available from Chennai and several other important points.

Conclusion

For no rhyme or reason, Yercaud is often called the poor man’s Ooty (Ooty or Ootachamand is the most popular hill station of Tamil Nadu). But it is as enchanting and picturesque as the other two hill stations of Tamil Nadu.

It is easily accessable – just a one our drive from Salem. And certainly is the cheapest hill station. But things are changing. More and more tourists are pouring in. Estate prices are rising.
On the Ghat road to Yercaud, you will see numerous Rhesus monkeys sitting on the roadsides waiting for tit bits. There are Coffee estates and plantations growing pepper, citrus fruits – mainly oranges, bananas, pears and jackfruit. There are plenty of Silver Oak and other trees. Once upon a time, there were Sandalwood trees, too.

Trekking, bird watching and sheer lazying around could be some of the most pleasurable ways to spend a vacation. You will come across numerous types of plants and flowers.

For a one day excursion, Hogennakkal (100 km. from Salem) is the place. Here, you can do boating in saucer shaped country boats and row right into waterfalls. But Hogennakal should be visited either on the way to Yercaud, or on the way back.
(1600 words) Binoy Gupta

Ooty

The Queen of Hill Stations

The Queen of Hill Stations in South India is Udhagamandalam or Ootacamund. I find both terms far too long and tongue twisting; and prefer the much shorter term Ooty.
Ooty is certainly the most popular hill station in South India.
Ooty, located in the Western ghats at a height of 2240 metres, is the headquarters of the Nilgiris district where the Eastern and Western ghats meet.

Flora and Fauna

Ooty is full of coffee estates and tea plantations. The dense forests around are full of connifers, eucalyptus, pine and wattle; numerous animals and birds.

Surprisingly, probably due to its inaccessibility, Ooty was practically unknown to the Indians till the early 1800s when it was discovered by John Sullivan, the then British Collector of Coimbatore. The Britishers constructed the first railway line in the area and made Ooty the summer capital of Madras Presidency.
 

The earlier inhabitants of the land were the tribals called Todas who claim to have lived in the Nilgiris since time immemorial.

What to see

Lake

The centre of attraction, the artificial Ooty Lake, was constructed by John Sullivan in 1824. The Lake is surrounded by well maintained gardens.

You can do boating in the lake. You can also do fishing, but you have to obtain prior permission from the Assistant Director of Fisheries.
John Sullivan lies buried in the cemetery close to St. Stephens Church (built in 1829) on Club Road.

Botanical Garden

The beautiful Botanical Garden laid over 50 acres of land was established by the Marquis of Tweeddale in 1848. It is maintained by the Government of Tamil Nadu.

It has a large collection of exotic and ornamental plants; a beautiful Italian floral garden; well maintained lawns and a 20 million year old fossilized tree trunk.

Government Museum

The Government Museum on Mysore Road, which was set up in 1989, has a good collection of tribal artefacts and arts and crafts of Tamil Nadu.

Doddabetta (10 Kms)

Doddabetta is the highest peak (2623 metres) in the Nilgiris. It lies at the junction of Western and Eastern Ghats and offers panoramic views of the Nilgiri Hills. There is a telescope house.

Kotagiri (29 Kms)

Kotagiri is a lovely hamlet (1982 metres feet above sea level). The climate here is very salubrious. The road to Kotagiri is flanked by tea gardens.

Rose Garden

It is located about 4 kms from Charring Cross. Spread over 10 acres of land, it has about 2000 variety of roses.

Art Gallery – Lalith Kala Academy (2 Kms)

Situated on the main Mysore road, it has a good collection of contemporary paintings and sculptures from all over India.

Mini Garden (1 Km)

The mini garden (Children’s Lake Garden) is on the way to the Boat House. There is also a children’s amusement park here.

Deer Park (1 Km)

The Deer Park is a park worth visiting.

Excursions

Mudumulai Wildlife Sanctury (64 kms)

Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary is the most important wild life reserve in the state and borders the Bandipur National Park in Karnataka and the Wyanad Sanctuary in Kerala.

The dense forests shelter a wide range of animals and birds.

The animals include tiger, leopard, elephants, sloth bear, gaur, sambar, spotted deer, Indian muntjac, wild boar, hyena, wild dog, jackal, langur, bonnet macaque, mouse deer and flying squirrel.

The birds include Malabar trogan, Grey hornbill, crested hawk eagle, crested serpent eagle, etc.The Ooty Mysore road actually passes through the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary.

Once we were passing through it in a bus. A musth male elephant was standing in the middle of the road. All traffic had stopped. Finally, after several hours, the elephant felt it was enough and decided to leave. Then only, the traffic resumed.

Coonoor (on the toy-train line – 28 kms from Mettupalayam )

Coonoor, located at an altitude of 1858 metres (6100 ft.) is on the way between Coimbatore and Udhagamandalam. It is a smaller, but equally enchanting, and far more quiet and picturesque hill station in the Nigiris.

The Sim’s Park in Coonoor, having a distinctive Japanese style, contains a large array of plants including the Rudrakhsa (holy beads) tree.

Dolphin’s Nose (12 Kms from Coonoo)

This is a beautiful spot. You can also see the Catherine Falls from here.

Ketti Valley View Point

Located on the road to Coonoor, this spot is a cluster of small villages that extend to the plains of Coimbatore and Mysore plateau.

Kalhatty Water Falls (13 kms from Ooty)

Is located on the Kalhatty slopes on the Ooty – Mysore Kalhatty Ghat road. The height of the water falls is about 100 ft. Kalhatty – Masinagudi slope area is rich in wildlife and different types of birds.

Mukurthi Peak & Mukurthi National Park (40 kms from Ooty)

The Mukurthi National Park is located on the South Eastern corner of the Nilgiris.
The unique feature of this sanctuary is the similarity of its flora and fauna to those found in the Himalayas.
The area contains Nilgiri Tahr (Hamitragus hilocrius).
Silent valley is located on the western side of these ranges.

Pykara (21 kms from Ooty)

Pykara has well protected fenced Sholas; Toda settlements; virgin grassy meadows and also a large variety of wildlife.
The Pykara Dam, Pykara falls and the reservoir are good tourist spots.You can also do some boating here.

Avalanche (28 kms from Ooty)

This is a beautiful lake surrounded by thick shola trees where even sunlight cannot penetrate. This area is a Nature Lover’s Paradise.

Clothing

Heavy woollens in winter.
Cottons in summer.

Getting there

Air
The nearest airport is Coimbatore – 100 Kms.Coimbatore has direct flights from Chennai, Mumbai and Bangalore.

Rail
Ooty is connected to Mettpalayam by the Nilgiri Blue Mountain Railway – an age old narrow gauge railway.

The unforgettable train journey from Mettupalayam to Ooty passes through eleven stations and over nineteen small bridges.

The train passes throgh areca plantations, tea and coffee estates offering spectacular views of the misty Nilgiris.

Road
Ooty is connected by good motorable road.
It is 535 Kms from Chennai (Via Salem, Mettupalayam) and 89 Kms from Coimbatore.

Summer Festivals

Ooty has a number of summer festivals.
Flower and Fruit shows; Boat races; Boat pageantry; Dog shows; Cultural Programs; Fashion parades, etc.
These attract a lot of tourists.
Adventure sports like trekking also form part of the festival.

Season

The main season is the summer.
But Ooty is more enchanting during the rainy season.

The most popular week end get aways from Mumbai

Lonavala and Khandala are two twin hill stations in Maharashtra eight kilometres from each other. They are just over a hundred kilometres from Mumbai (Bombay). The National Highway No. 4 from Mumbai to Bangalore passes through these two hill stations offering travellers a most enjoyable two hour motoring from Mumbai.

History

Lonavala was discovered in 1811 by Sir Mountstuart Elphinstone, then Resident of Pune and later Governor of Bombay. Elphinstone virtually founded the state education system in India, that too, at a time when British opinion was against educating the “natives”. The Elphinstone College of Mumbai was named after him. He refused the high post of Governor-General of India twice, to finish his authoritative two-volume work History of India.During that time, Lonavala was thickly forested, had a very small population and was known as “Lonali”. No authentic records are available which explain why the place was called Lonali. But Lonali of the past became the present day “Lonavala”.

During the 12th century, the Yadav Kings ruled Lonavala. Moghuls invaded the region and ruled for a long time. Later, Marathas, and after them, the Peshwas ruled the place. The Marathas and Peshwas built inaccessible, strategically located forts to protect their territory. The British started to rule this region from 1818.

Location

The two hill stations are situated on the western slopes of the Sahyadri hills. Lonavala is located at an altitude of 625 metres and is also known as the “Jewel of the Sahyadris”. Khandala is located slightly lower.

Both hill stations are famous for their scenic beauty, green hills, deep valleys, several lakes, historic forts and ancient caves. During the rainy season, the entire area becomes lush green with myriads of glistening waterfalls. Clouds sweep down to kiss the dense mist which seems to envelop everything.

Lonavala and Khandala have a number of sanatoria and are famous health resorts.
Lonavala and Khandala are extremely popular week end getaways amongst Mumbaites particularly because of their nearness to Mumbai. Many wealthy Mumbaites own flats or bungalows there. Many others try to spend their week ends there.

Places to see

There are plenty of places to visit and explore.

Lonavala Lake
This is the most famous lake. Also called Bushi Lake, it is located about a kilometre from Lonavala.
This lake is owned by Central Railway and is on the way to INS Shivaji.
Constructed in 1876, it is a very beautiful picnic spot.
The Indryani River is supposed to originate from this lake. There is also a dam here. Unfortunately, the lake practically dries up in summer.

Ray Wood Park
The Ray Wood Park is located inside the town near the Lonavala market. This is a sprawling botanical garden which has now turned into a large picnic garden with large lawns, tall trees and cool shades.

Tungarli Lake
This lake is at the north of the bus stand near Tungarli village. It supplies water to Lonavala. The hills offer beautiful views of Rajmachi, Lohagad, Visapur forts and Lonavala City.

Valvan Lake
This is very close to Lonavala. Here a Tata Company has constructed a beautiful dam. There is a well maintained garden and a centre for pisciculture.

Rajmachi Fort
This fort was used by the Maratha warrior Shivaji.
It is a place worth visiting but can be reached only on foot as it is surrounded by deep valleys on three sides and by a thick forest on the fourth side.

If you have time, you can visit a few other forts – the Manoranjan Fort, Shrivardhan Fort, Visapur Fort, Lohagad Fort and the Tunga Fort.

Rajmachi Point and Monkey Point
These are two other places worth visiting.

MTDC Holiday resort and Boating
There is a MTDC ( Maharashtra tourism development Corporation ) holiday resort at Karla spread over 30 acres of land. It is located on the Indravani river. Here you can hire paddle boats, motor boats and water scooters.

Ancient Caves

Far more interesting, much less known and rarely visited are the ancient and historical caves in the region.
Some of the oldest and most magnificent Buddhist caves in India lie scattered in this region.

Karla Caves

Malavali is on the main road about 8 km from Lonavala (towards Pune).
The Karla and Bhaja caves are both about 5 km from Malavali, but on opposite sides of the road.
Karla, 12 kms from Lonavala, has the largest chaitya griha (Buddhist chapel) in India. There are several viharas (monasteries or dwelling caves). These were built around 160 BC.

In terms of purity of design, the Karla caves represent the zenith of the Satwahan school of Hinayana style of temple architecture. They are the biggest and best preserved Buddhist cave temples in India.

The entrance to the chaitya griha is in the shape of a “Peepal” leaf. As one enters the magnificent hall, he is spell bound by the beauty of the stone pillars which are carved with life-like figures of elephants and human forms which represent different forms of Gautam Buddha.
The pillars are surprisingly smooth. The high majestic roof is semicircular.

There is adequate provision for storage of drinking water in the tanks around.
There is a small temple of Ekvira Devi at the entrance.

Bhaja Caves
Of the 18 caves in Bhaja, Cave No. 12, the finest of the cave complex, is an open chaitya constructed earlier than the Karla caves. This cave has sculptures of Surya and Indra with a Yaksha below Surya. The pillars here have centaurs.
Cave No. 1 is the dwelling house of the master architect.
Nine caves are viharas and the remaining 7 caves contain inscriptions about the donors.

The Bhaja caves are similar to the Karla Caves but on a much smaller scale. These caves are so constructed that the rays of the setting sun enter these caves.
On the southern side, there is a place where one can see carved figures of Gods and Goddesses.
Below the mountain is Mukkai, the site of the pre historic Mother Goddess. Even today, the villagers offer sacrifices once a year.
On one side of Bhaja is Lohagad Fort. On the other side, the Visapur Fort.

Bedsa Caves
16 kilometres south of Karla close to the Kamshet Railway Station is the village called Bedsa. A 3 kilometres walk up a stiff hill takes one to the Bedsa caves.
These caves have a huge chaitya, and numerous small resting chambers or cells for monks. The vihara has 9 cells and couple of side cells. In one of the larger cells is a non-Buddhist deity Yamai.
The caves have huge pillars, lions and human figures. The arched roof of the chaitya is supported by 2,000-year-old woodwork.
Under a tree in the village below is the Tandula stone of Bedsai. Every year, a palki (palanquin) is taken from this village to Yamai’s shrine and then to Vaghoba (deity of the pass) up the hill.

Getting there

Distances
Lonavala to Mumbai 108 Kms
Lonavala to Pune 66 Kms
Lonavala to Khandala 8 Kms

Air
Nearest international airport Mumbai
Nearest domestic airport Pune

Train
Both Lonavala and Khandala have railway stations and are well connected to Mumbai and Pune.

Road
The National Highway No. 4 from Mumbai to Bangalore passes through the two
hill stations. All kinds of private and public transport are available.

Accommodation

There are a large number of hotels in Lonavala and Khandala –
from affordable budget class to the star luxury class hotels.
The MTDC holiday resort at Karla also offers very good accommodation
at reasonable rates.

Best Time to Visit

These hill stations can be visited throughout the year, but the best time to visit them is during the monsoons.
During the rainy season, the rain clouds hover around and the place gets covered in dense mist. You can see many waterfalls all around.
Try to avoid weekends and holiday season, unless you like crowds.

Guardian of the Western Ghats

Panhala is a beautiful hill station – 977.2 metres ( 3177 feet) above sea level – about 18 km north-west of Kolhapur in the state of Maharashtra.
The most interesting thing here is Panhala Fort – the largest of the Deccan forts.
The Fort is strategically located on one of the principal routes passing through the Western Ghats and was therefore of great military importance. It is also intimately connected with Shivaji and the Maratha rule.


History

Panhala Fort was built by the Shilahara ruler King Bhoja II between 1178 and 1209 A.D. Subsequently, it passed into the hands of the Yadav rulers.This fort was a favorite outpost of the Bahamanis of Bidar.
By the beginning of the 16th century, Panhala became a part of the kingdom of Bijapur. The Adil Shahis strengthened and rebuilt the ramparts and gateways.

Shivaji attacked the fort in 1659. But he could occupy it permanently only in 1673.

Shivaji did not stay in any single fort for a long time.Panhala is the only fort where he spent more than 500 days, other than his childhood homes.

Shivaji imprisoned his errant son Sambhaji in this Fort in the building known as Sajja Kothi, Sajja Kothi was built by Ibrahim Adil-Shah in 1500 AD.
But Sambhaji escaped… right into the arms of his father’s enemies.

It was here that Shivaji beleaguered for over four months and escaped on a rainy night to Vishalgad, while his loyal general Baji Prabhu Deshpande laid down his life, holding down the forces of Siddi Johar at a narrow pass.

This place is now called Pavankhind.
In 1701, Panhala was surrendered to Auragzeb, and it was here that the Mughal Emperor received the English Ambassador, Sir William Norris.

Within a few months the fort was taken back by the Maratha forces.
Panhala was the Maratha capital until 1782, when the capital was shifted to Kolhapur. After a local rebellion in 1844, Panhala was taken over by the British.

Fort

The Fort is built on an outlying spur of the Sahyadris, rising more than 400 metres above the surrounding plains. From the fort, you can see the plains for miles around.
More than 7 kms of fortifications encircle the Panhala Fort.

The walls are protected by steep escarpments, reinforced by a parapet with slit holes.

The remaining sections have 5 to 9 metres high ramparts, strengthened by round bastions.

The East Gate called Char Darawaja, through which the road passes on arrival at the Fort, was demolished by the British.

Places to see in Panhala

Amberkhana or Granary

There are three large buildings called Amberkhana – a huge granary – with the capacity to store 50,000 pounds of corn, sufficient to last an entire army for several months.

Sajja Kothi

The Sajja Kothi was actually a pleasure pavilion set into the ramparts.
This two storied structure has an upper chamber with rather flatish domes on vaults decorated in typical Bijapur style.
An arcaded balcony on the west looks down into the fort.

The chamber on the east gives a panoramic view of the approach to Panhala from the plains beneath.

Other places

Nearby are the Sambhaji temple; Someshwar temple; Teen Darwaza; Raj Dindi; Ambabai Temple where Shivaji used to seek blessings before going out on his many expeditions; and Pavankhind, where Baji Prabhu Deshpande laid down his life to cover Shivaji’s escape.

Places to see around

Kolhapur is a lovely place with many things to see.

Reaching There

Air
Air Deccan has daily flights from Mumbai and Bangalore.  

Train
Kolhapur is well connected to Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore and Miraj by rail.

Road
Kolhapur to Mumbai is 396 kms
Kolhapur to Bangalore is 600 kms
Kolhapur lies on National Highway 4 which connects Mumbai to Bangalore.
Mumbai to Kolhapur is about 6 hours drive by road.
The road is very good.