Culture – An Indian Bureaucrat's Diary https://binoygupta.com Share the life time experiences of a retired Indian Bureaucrat relating to travel and nature Mon, 14 Oct 2013 14:59:34 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 Aam Aadmi Party, ex Bureaucrats and Politics https://binoygupta.com/culture/aam-aadmi-party-ex-bureaucrats-and-politics-564/ https://binoygupta.com/culture/aam-aadmi-party-ex-bureaucrats-and-politics-564/#comments Mon, 14 Oct 2013 13:55:06 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=564 Read more ›]]> Aam Aadmi Party, ex Bureaucrats and Politics

 

Yesterday night, I was shocked to watch and hear Arvind Kejriwal’s comments
in the TV show Aap Ki Adalat.

Earlier, I have been astonished to hear comments by General V K Singh about

the Supreme Court decision on his age dispute.

And I have been amused to see Asaram Bapu’s supporters ranting to the

media.

Right to contest elections and dream big

Every one, including ex Bureaucrats, and even Babas have a right to contest

the elections, and dream of becoming the Prime Minister, Chief Minister,

Minister, MP or MLA. But people who have retired as a General or Cabinet

Secretary or some other high position have handled very sensitive files and

documents. They should never talk about such things in public in private.

General V K Singh

How can he compare his age dispute with that of a 17 year old rapist?

The Supreme Court does not admit cases of age disputes of government

servants directly.

The affected person has to come through a serious of judicial hierarchy.

The Supreme Court did a favour in hearing the General directly. Probably this

should not have been done.

Then, there are procedures and a plethora of decisions on how age disputes of

Government employees should be agitated and resolved.

Commenting on the Supreme Court was in very bad taste.

Then he stated that he had evidence against a subordinate offering him bribe.

But he could never produce the evidence.

Then his statement in public  about the bribes and payments made to

politicians in Kashmir are actually crimes punishable under the Military Act

and the Official Secrets Act.

Surely he knows all this….

 Asharam and his son Narayan Sai

Asaram Bapu is in jail. His son Narayan Sai announced he will form an all India
political party. His supporters harp on the delay in filing the various

complaints.

There are so many charges against both father and son. There are a plethora of
illegal constructions……

If he is innocent, he should appear before the police and the and the courts

and answer the different questions.

Why is he running away?

 Arvind Kejriwal

In the interview yesterday, Arvind said that he was a Commissioner of Income
Tax when he resigned, and that every Inspector in the Income Tax

Department earns at least Rs. 1 crore per year……He left the department and

all this money for the common man.

 The fact is he was not a Commissioner – but only an Addl. Commissioner of

Income Tax when he resigned. All this ranting about the earning of an

Inspector of Income Tax of Rs. 1 crore is sheer bakwas. How many cases of

Inspectors amassing this kind of money did he come across? How many

inspectors did he take action against during his long career.

Then he did not mention that his wife continues to work in the same Income

Tax Department as Additional Commissioner of Income Tax. Personally, I do

not know them. But by the same logic, she must be earning tens of crores of

rupees every year. What is his answer to this logic?

Anna Hazare thought politics is dirty and chose to remain aloof. But Arvind

has entered Politics and he is already talking like a Chief Minister…….May be

one day his dreams will come true.

But as I said, he has a right to contest elections and dream big,,,,but without

telling silly lies about his ex colleagues and sub ordinates.

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/culture/aam-aadmi-party-ex-bureaucrats-and-politics-564/feed/ 4
How to Fight Corruption Effectively … Sequel https://binoygupta.com/culture/how-to-fight-corruption-effictively-sequel-522/ https://binoygupta.com/culture/how-to-fight-corruption-effictively-sequel-522/#comments Sat, 03 Nov 2012 14:41:29 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=522 Read more ›]]> Now an Income Tax Officer is arrested for taking bribe

Now, an Income Tax Officer is arrested in Thane for taking bribe .
The following news item gives the facts.
At one time, lady government officers were expected to be honest. But times have changed.
Undisputably, there cannot be any gender discrimination. It is therefore only natural that the malaise has spilled over to the fair sex.

News Item

Woman I-T officer caught accepting Rs 1.5 lakh bribe

Nitin Yeshwantrao, TNN Nov 2, 2012, 02.44AM IST

THANE: A woman income tax (I-T) officer was remanded in police custody till Saturday after being caught red-handed by CBI sleuths accepting a bribe from a Thane builder. Accused Madhavi Chavan was picked up from the Wagle Estate I-T office late on Wednesday after she accepted Rs 1.5 lakh from Sandeep Salvi, a partner in a construction firm which has projects in Chiplun and Roha in the Konkan region.

Salvi and his associate Rajabhau Patkar had complained to the anti-corruption wing of the CBI in Mumbai about the alleged harassment and cash demand made by Chavan. They claimed Chavan had contacted them in September and said her superiors had issued orders for scrutiny of their tax papers. Patkar claimed Chavan asked them to pay Rs 10 lakh to cancel the scrutiny orders.

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/culture/how-to-fight-corruption-effictively-sequel-522/feed/ 10
How to Fight Corruption Effictively https://binoygupta.com/culture/how-to-fight-corruption-effictively-518/ https://binoygupta.com/culture/how-to-fight-corruption-effictively-518/#comments Thu, 01 Nov 2012 15:59:12 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=518 Read more ›]]> How to Fight Corruption

Corruption is big news today. A lot is being written and said about corruption.

Why is Bribery and Corruption Flourishing in India


Bribery and corruption (including similar activities in the private sector) are flourishing in India because the public is not only tolerating, but also encouraging, such activities.
People readily pay bribes to get work done….even if the work is totally illegal.
Parents seek prospective candidates for marriage with their children with an eye on the money they will make in future.
Worse, there is no stigma attached to illegal earnings.

How do you fight Bribery and Corruption

We already have several laws to fight all these……
We have a judiciary any democratic country can be proud of.
I personally believe that a new Lok Pal will only add one more layer of bureaucracy, a lot of expenditure, which we can hardly afford, and consequential corruption.

So how do we tackle the bribery and corruption?

  • First…don’t pay bribe.
  • Secondly, in case of government officials or public servants, file a complaint with the concerned Anti Corruption Department, and get the culprit arrested or caught red handed, while taking bribe.

Devrao Bawane, Deputy Commissioner of Sales Tax Jailed

For those who disbelieve in the efficacy of the existing laws, I am attached a news paper cutting of today to show how effective our laws are.

Devrao Bawane, Deputy Commissioner of Sales Tax and his inspector have been sentenced  to 5 years rigorous imprisonment for taking bribe of Rs. 1 lakh in 2009.
And what has not been mentioned is that they will also lose their retirement benefits.

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/culture/how-to-fight-corruption-effictively-518/feed/ 8
Munnar – a cuppa of British Tea https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/munnar-a-cuppa-of-british-tea-374/ https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/munnar-a-cuppa-of-british-tea-374/#comments Sun, 12 Jun 2011 18:22:27 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=374 Read more ›]]> Kashmir of South India

Manicured Tea Gardens

I had heard a lot about Munnar, the beautiful hill station in South India.
And although I had visited places very close to Munnar, such as Theni (Tamil Nadu) – only about an hour’s drive from Munnar – due to shortage of time, I could not visit the place.

So, in early 2011, I decided to visit Munnar,

Munnar is a wonderful getaway in Kerala, nestling at an altitude of 1,829 metres, amidst luscious tea and coffee plantations, hills, valleys, lakes, waterfalls, forests, exhilarating walks, birds and animals. It is nicknamed the Kashmir of South India.
I booked a small suite in one of the finest resorts there. My RCI membership comes in handy on such occasions. I had to pay only nominal charges. I also booked return flights from Mumbai to Kochi three months in advance. So those too were cheap.

A two hour drive (120 kms) from Kochi airport took me into the heart of tea country. I was passing through beautiful tea gardens on all sides.

Tea

I recently read an article that tea drinking originated in India. Much as I would love to believe this,  this is not true.
Tea drinking originated in China almost 4750 years ago. It was known there as Ch’a. The word has been copied by India, Japan, Russia, Iran and the Middle East.

In A.D. 780, the Chinese tea expert Lu Yu published the first exclusive book on tea ‘Ch’a Ching’ meaning ‘Tea classic’. In this book, he has described various kinds of tea, their cultivation and manufacturing in China.
Though we had indigenous tea plants in India, commercial cultivation of tea entered India much later. In 1834, Lord William Bentinck, then Governor General of British India, appointed a Tea Committee to advise him on the feasibility of commercial tea cultivation in India. The first experimental samples of tea from indigenous tea plants were sent to Calcutta in 1836.
The rest is history.

Today, India is the world’s second largest producer (India was number one, but China overtook India to become the number one). And we have all kinds of tea….from the good old time tested orthodox “Britisher’s….cuppa tea” to all kinds of delicately flavoured exotic concoctions.

History of Munnar and its tea plantations

Munnar was discovered by John Daniel Manro, a British lawyer and planter, in the 1870s, when he visited the area on a hunting expedition. He immediately recognised the agricultural potential of the region.

In July 1877, Manro leased 581.12 sq kms (125,000 acres) of land from the Raja of Poonjar and formed a co-operative society called ‘North Travancore Land Planting and Agricultural Society’. The members of the society started farming coffee, sisal and cardamom.
Another European, A.H. Sharp, experimented with different crops such as coffee, cinchona, sisal and cardamom and concluded that the area was best suited for tea. He started tea plantations. Over the years, more and more tea plantations grew up.

In 1964, the Tata Group entered Munnar.  By 1980s, Tata Tea Ltd. had acquired most of the tea plantations to become the second largest integrated tea manufacturing facility in the world.

On 1st April 2005, Tata Tea Ltd. exited most of its plantations in Munnar and were succeeded by Kanan Devan Hills Plantations Company Private Limited which now owns 7 extensive gardens covering 24,000 hectares, with an annual production of 21 million kgs of tea.
An interesting feature of this company is that its 12,000 plus employees are its shareholders.

What to see

There are a number of places in and around Munnar which you can visit. During the rains, the place becomes a fairyland enveloped in fog and mist andfull of cascading waterfalls.

But where ever you go, when ever you go, you will see beautifully manicured tea gardens. Left to nature, the tea plants grow quite tall. But for tea cultivation, they have to be continuously cut to 1 metre or so to encourage the growth of new shoots. The fresh tea shoots are pinched or clipped every three or four days from which tea is made.

The tangled leftovers of dead tea plants make wonderful show pieces. They are dried, sand papered and given a coat of varnish. You can put a sheet of glass on them and use them as beautiful ornamental tables.

Tea Museum  (2 kms from Munnar)

The Kanan Devan Hills Plantations Company Private Limited maintains India’s first tea museum which is a must visit site for all visitors.
Here, you can learn about the growth of the tea industry – from the simple tea roller to the present fully automated tea factory of Madupatty.
You can learn about various aspects of tea processing and the operations that go into the making of black tea. You can also do some tea tasting.

You can see old-time bungalow furniture, iron safe, magneto phone, wooden bathtub, iron oven that used firewood, etc., and antique office equipments such as antiquated typewriters and PBX.
The museum has an iron-age burial urn from the 2nd century B.C. exhumed in the 1970s.

Near the entrance of the museum is a granite sundial, made in 1913 by the Art Industrial School at Nazareth in Tamil Nadu.

Mattupetty (13 kms from Munnar)

The Mattupetty lake and dam are situated at a height of 1700 mts. You can do some boating here.
You can visit the Indo-swiss dairy farm, which is close by. It has over 100 varieties of high yielding cattle.
Eravikulam National Park (15 km from Munnar)
PEERMEDE

There are other national parks around Munnar,  but the 97 sq. kms. Eravikulam National Park is the home of the endangered Nilgiri Tahr, a rare mountain goat. Originally established to protect the Nilgiri Tahr, the Park was declared a sanctuary in 1975. Its status was elevated to National Park in 1978.
The total number of Niligiri Tahrs here is estimated to be over 1300 – about half the world’s population.

The park is breathtakingly beautiful. The Anamudi peak (2695 mts), the highest peak in South India, is located in the Southern region of the park.
If you have the time and inclination, you can walk up to the top.

Marayoor (40 kms from Munnar)

Marayoor is the only place in Kerala that has a natural growth of sandalwood trees.
I visited the sandalwood factory of the forest department, the caves (muniyaras) with murals and relics from the New stone age civilization and the children’s park spread across a hectare of land under the canopy of a single banyan tree.
You can also visit the Thoovanam waterfalls and Rajiv Gandhi National Park nearby.

Dolmens

You can see muniyaras (caves) dating back to the New Stone Age near Kovilkadavu village. These caves contain rock paintings of great archaeological importance.
But what was more interesting for me were the dolmens, or old burial chambers, consisting of four erect stones covered by a horizontal capstone.

Neelakurunji flowers

You can also see the beautiful Neelakurunji flowers here, but there is only one hitch. The spectacular blue blooms cover the entire mountainside.
But they flower once in 12 years and the next flowering will take place in 2018.
So you will have to wait for another 7 years.

Reaching There

 The nearest airport is Kochi.
Kochi also has a railway station and is well connected by road also.
You can see a map of the place and get other information from the
following site:
http://www.munnar.org/munnar-maps.php

Summer Resort

The word Munnar is derived from the Tamil words moon – aar meaning three rivers because Munnar is located at the confluence of three rivers – Mudrapuzha, Nallathani and Kundala.
The most appropriate description of Munnar would be tea country. But it is much more than that.

The Britishers of South India had made Munnar their summer resort.

And it really rains during the monsoons. The rains here are 2nd only to Cherrapunji in Assam.

You will surely fall in love with the place during the rains.

 

 

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/munnar-a-cuppa-of-british-tea-374/feed/ 3
Baba Ramdev https://binoygupta.com/culture/baba-ramdev-364/ https://binoygupta.com/culture/baba-ramdev-364/#comments Sat, 21 May 2011 09:21:59 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=364 Read more ›]]> Sanyasi or Politician …….

When I was Chief Commissioner of Income Tax I, Chennai in 2005, I was invited to Baba Ramdev’s discourses in Chennai and to receive his blessings.
Some how, I could not attend it.

The people who had invited me, and the people who were organising the discourses, were the big business men, including tax evaders, and even people who were facing prosecution for tax evasion.
 Baba Ramdeo Pix (Click here to see picture)

If anyone sincerely believes that all Baba Ramdev’s followers are the honest exceptionalists – the pure Ganga Jumna of the society, he is obviously mistaken.
The fact is that most honest people are poor and can hardly afford the luxury of doling out huge donations with which the big religious and pseudo religious institutions are built.

Even in the good old days, robbers and dacoits used to offer a portion of their loot to Goddess Kali and other deities, when they returned back from their exploits.
The business people traditionally kept a small percentage of their income for God (Dabba – the donation box as it used to be called).
Whether this was done to appease the Gods. or lessen their anger…. I do not know.
 
Background

An online internet search about the Baba gave me the following facts:

Baba Ramdev  was born on Dec 25, 1965, as Ramkishan Alipur Yadav in the house of an ordinary family of Gulab Devi and Ram Nivas Yadav in Ali Saiyad Pur village of Mahendragarh district in Haryana state of India.

He attended school through the 8th grade in Shahjadpur.
Thereafter, he joined a gurukul in Khanpur village (Hoshiarpur, Punjab) to study Sanskrit and Yoga.
In 1995. Ramkishan Alipur Yadav, renounced worldly life and became a Sanyasi – adopting the name Swami Ramdev. 

Then he went to Jind district and joined the Kalva gurukul and later imparted free Yoga training to villagers across Haryana.
He travelled the Himalayas for several years (for which no details are available) before settling down in Haridwar.
He discovered several medicinal plants in the Himalayas (for which no details are available) which he uses for treating his patients.

He starting teaching Pranayama –  techniques of breath control and popularised the practice of Pranayama.

His discourses and talks are broadcast on Indian TV channels. Baba Ramdev claims that he was a paralytic prior to taking up yoga, but this claim has never been verified.

So far so good. No one can have any problem with Baba Ramdev and his teachings relating to Pranayama and other yogic exercises.

HIV & AIDS – claim of curing

On Dec. 22 and 23, 2006, on India TV and a couple of other TV Channels, Baba Ramdev said that Yoga Pranayama and the Ayurvedic and Herbal Medicines suggested by him can control and cure AIDS.

He added that the CD4 Cell count of the people affected by AIDS, which had fallen to 50; 100; 150 have gone up to 400; 500; and even 600, which is quite normal. He added that even the people with CD4 Cell count of 5 to 10 have benefited. CD4 cells (T4 count, T-helper cells) are a class of immune cells that gradually get depleted in HIV infection.

On Dec. 22 and 23, 2006, India TV also showed a lady, declaring openly, in one of his Yoga Science camps to have been cured of AIDS. This lady had come to know that she had AIDS, after she lost her husband due to AIDS.

As a result of these press reports, the Indian Union Health Ministry sent a cease and desist order to Baba Ramdev; and medical NGOs threatened to take legal action against him.
Baba Ramdev responded by saying that he had been misquoted.
(The usual ploy of politicians).
His clarification was that Yoga and Ayurveda together can alleviate the suffering from AIDS, not cure it.
He also added that Yogic education was preferable over sex education in response to the AIDS crisis.

http://www.articlesbase.com/book-reviews-articles/swami-ramdev-biography-and-information-4517995.html claim of curing

Cancer

In some of his addresses, Baba Ramdev said that Yoga and Pranayama have been successful in curing 200 cancer patients and he is ready to give evidence. (But no evidence has ever been given.)

Quoting from page 55 of the monthly magazine “Yog Sandesh” (English) September 2006. issue.
This magazine is also available along with all the Back Issues of Yog Sandesh Monthly, online at
http://www.yogapranayama.com/yog%20Sandesh.htm

Sanyasi

Baba’s actions have left me in daze. I am blundered and traumatised.
I have always believed that a Sanyasi is one who has renounced the world.
A Sanyasi is one who is free from all attachments – family, friends and enemies.
I am reproducing the definition of Sannyasa from Wikipedia. (Definitions in other treatises are similar)

“ Sannyasa (Devanagari, sannyāsa) is the order of life of the renouncer within the Hindu scheme of āśramas, or life stages. It is considered the topmost and final stage of the ashram systems and is traditionally taken by men or women at or beyond the age of fifty years old or by young monks who wish to renounce worldly and materialistic pursuits and instead dedicate their entire life towards spiritual pursuits. In this phase of life, the person develops vairāgya, or a state of dispassion and detachment from material life. He renounces all worldly thoughts and desires, and spends the rest of his life in spiritual contemplation. One within the sannyasa order is known as a sannyasi (male) or sannyasin (female)……

During the sannyasa phase of life, a person abandons fire (Agnihotra, allowed to the householder stage of life, the Grihastha ashram). It means that during sannyasa ashram, one should not cook, perform fire rituals or take heat from fire. Sannyasa focuses only on the self and spirituality and not even the gods (as abandoning fire suggests). Symbolically, a sannyasi casts his physical body to fire by wearing saffron robes at the moment of taking up sannyasa itself, thus freeing his soul, while yet alive. Hence, sannyasis are not cremated after death (as most Hindus are) but may instead be buried.”

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sannyasa 

Death Penalty for corruption

Baba Ramdev has recently taken up the issue of corruption.
He has demanded that corrupt people should be dealt with nothing less than death penalty.

I am shocked….a sanyasi asking for the death penalty…..and that too, for a crime like corruption, when nation after nation are abolishing the death penalty.
There is something wrong, somewhere. I would have expected a sanyasi to save life, not take life.

Ramdev and Politics

Baba Ramdev has launched Bharat Swabhiman – a new political party.
Baba has clarified that his party has no intention of contesting Assembly elections, but only Lok Sabha elections.
(His aims are high and lofty ….Delhi and the Parliament itself).

“I do not have any ambition to be the Prime Minister or the President of India. I will never actively participate in politics”, he claimed.
(But none the less he will form a new political party)

 http://www.goanews.com/news_disp.php?newsid=1077 

Baba Ramdev would himself play the role of Chanakya and not be directly involved in politics. I shall not be a contender to power personally, said the Yoga Guru.

http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2010-02-22/patna/28131728_1_baba-ramdev-check-corruption-yoga-guru 

Well this is what Sonia is doing…..

Back to Sanyas

Baba Ramdev….
With all the humility I can muster, mingled with all the knowledge and experience I have gained over 65 years of life, I implore you to keep away from politics, corruption, black money and such mundane things of life.

We already have far too many politicians.
Please stick to what is your rightful duty…..as a sannyani…..meditation and yoga.
Otherwise, you will be like the misled donkey….na ghar ka na ghat ka.

The Finale

Sunday morning, the police moved in and cleared Ramleela Grounds.
The Baba had crossed all limits.
Flying on private jets, owning thousands of crores worth of land and other assets, making a mockery of all that a Sanyasi is supposed to do, he was literally blackmailing the Govt.

But for all this, the Govt. of India itself is to blame. Sending three ministers and the Cabinet Secretary to meet him was a very very wrong decision.
It was sending out all the wrong signals.
Any way, better late than never.

Baba Ramdev – will someone convey this message to him

Rajbala lies paralyzed because she supported you.
The least you can do….call it ethics, sanyas, or good will,
give her a reasonable sum for her loyalty.
You should compensate her…..

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/culture/baba-ramdev-364/feed/ 6
Tibetans in India https://binoygupta.com/culture/tibetans-in-india-343/ https://binoygupta.com/culture/tibetans-in-india-343/#respond Sun, 16 Jan 2011 04:02:33 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=343 Read more ›]]> Tibetans in India – High Court to the rescue of

The Tibetan Refugees in India have been facing a peculiar dilemma.
Even though many of them are born in India and acquire Indian citizenship by birth, they have to describe themselves as Tibetan Nationals.
They are issued identity cards by the Indian Government permitting them to stay in India.

They face peculiar problems such as getting passports, etc.

Recently in:

W.P.(C) 12179 / 2009
Decision Dated : December 22, 2010
NAMGYAL DOLKAR ….. Petitioner
versus
GOVERNMENT OF INDIA, MINISTRY OF EXTERNAL AFFAIRS ….. Respondent

the Delhi High Court had occasion to decide such a case.

The Court observed that:
“23. The amended Section 3(1)(a) reads as under: ―
3. Citizenship by birth:- (1) Except as provided in sub-section (2), every born in India, –
(a) on or after the 26th day of January 1950, but before the 1st day of July, 1987.‖ (b) …….
(c) …..
Shall be a citizen of India by birth.”

The Court went on to hold:

“28. In the considered view of this Court, the above ground for rejection of the Petitioner‘s application for passport is untenable. As already noticed, the concept of  ‘nationality’ does not have legislative recognition in the CA.

The Petitioner‘s describing herself to be a Tibetan ‘national’ is really of no legal consequence as far as the CA is concerned, or for that matter from the point of view of the policy of the MEA. The counter affidavit makes it clear that the MEA treats Tibetans as ‘stateless’ persons. Which is why they are issued identity certificates which answers the description of travel documents within the meaning of Section 4(2)(b) PA. Without such certificate, Tibetans face the prospect of having to be deported. They really have no choice in the matter. It must be recalled that when her attention was drawn to the fact that she could not hold an identity certificate and a passport simultaneously, the Petitioner volunteered to relinquish the identity certificate, if issued the passport. That was the correct thing to do, in any event. The holding of an identity certificate, or the Petitioner declaring, in her application for such certificate, that she is a Tibetan national, cannot in the circumstances constitute valid grounds to refuse her a passport.”

I am giving the link to the full judgement: 

http://lobis.nic.in/dhc/SMD/judgement/22-12-2010/SMD22122010CW121792009.pdf

This is a most welcome judgement.  

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/culture/tibetans-in-india-343/feed/ 0
Jodhpur – Land of Sand and Sand Dunes https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/jodhpur-land-of-sand-and-sand-dunes-320/ https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/jodhpur-land-of-sand-and-sand-dunes-320/#comments Mon, 27 Dec 2010 17:06:39 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=320 Read more ›]]>

 Jodhpur – Land of Sand and Sand Dunes

For a long time now, I had been planning to ride across the deserts and over the sand dunes in Rajasthan, atop our one humped camels.
I narrowed down my search to two places – Jaisalmer and Jodhpur.

I finally zeroed in on Jodhpur for the simple reason it has one of the finest forts in India, the most modern palace in the country and….. it is easier to travel to Jodhpur from Mumbai or Delhi.

Mandore (9 Kms) – History  

The early capital of the Jodhpur area was not the present city of Jodhpur but Mandore (originally known as Mandavyapur)  –  9 kms north of Jodhpur.
Mandore has a long history. During the Ramayana era, Princess Mandodri of Mandavyapur married King Ravana.

During the Gupta period 6th – 7th century AD, Mandore was the ancient capital of the Parihar kings and remained the capital under various kings till the 14th century.

When Kannauj was sacked by Mahmud of Ghazni in 1019, the Gahadvala dynasty gained control of Kannauj and ruled for almost a century. Their best known and last king was Raja Jaichand.

Raja Jaichand’s successors, who came to be known as Rathores, gradually spread across Marwar, forming a loose brotherhood of land owners and village chieftains, bound to each other by clan and caste.

In 1395 AD, Chundaji Rathore married a Parihar princess Mohil and began ruling Mandore.

Rao Jodha, a Rathore chief, conquered the surrounding areas and founded the Marwar state – the largest Rajasthan state during the pre independence days. A 10 km long wall with 8 Gates leading out of it encircled the old city.

Rao Jodha founded the present Jodhpur in 1459 A.D. and shifted his capital from Mandore to Jodhpur.

Mandore (9 Kms) – the Old City 
 

Today, Mandore has a beautiful garden on the slopes of a hill housing a unique  collection of royal devals or cenotaphs (cenotaph means a monument erected in honor of a dead person whose remains lie elsewhere or could not be recovered).
 
Unlike the usual chhatri (umbrella) shaped cenotaphs typical of other places of Rajasthan, the cenotaphs in Mandore are in the shape of beautiful, ornate, Hindu temples.
All the cenotaphs were constructed out of dark red sandstone.
The most impressive one is the four-storey cenotaph of Maharaja Ajit Singh (reigned 1678-1724), with fine columns and an elegant spire.

The garden has a hall of heroes with 16 figures of popular Hindu and folk deities carved out of a single rock, dating back to the 17th – 18th century.
Adjacent to this is a larger hall called “The Shrine of the Three Hundred Million” deities filled with brightly coloured images of various Hindu Gods.

As you climb up the hill, you come to the ruins of old Mandore with its old palace. Set on a rocky outcrop, a ten-minute walk over the hills, are the beautiful cenotaphs of the beautiful Maharanis.

The Mandore museum has a good collection of memoralia.

Modern Jodhpur


Maharaja Rao Jodha founded Jodhpur in 1459 A.D. The same year, he started constructed of the Mehrangarh Fort.
Construction of the Fort was completed by Maharaja Jaswant Singh (1638-1680).

Jodhpur is known as the Sun City for its year round bright, sunny, weather.
It is also known as the Blue City (Jaipur is known as the Pink City), due to the excessive indigo used in white-washing the houses around the Mehrangarh Fort.
Initially, only Brahmins white washed their houses indigo blue. The non-Brahmins soon joined in, as the blue colour (probably it was the indigo) was believed to deflect the heat and keep mosquitoes away.

Today Jodhpur has two sectors – the old city and the new city.
The old city is surrounded by a thick stone wall with six huge gates – Nagauri Gate, Merati Gate, Sojati Gate, Jalori Gate, Siwanchi Gate and Chand Pol.

The Old market

After checking in at the hotel, I spent the first evening walking around the Clock Tower and the area around it.
This gave us a taste of the old markets in the old city.
Speaking of taste, you can purchase Jodhpur’s famous red chilli powder around here. Besides, there are lots of shops around selling local handicrafts, lac work and pretty bangles.

Mehrangarh Fort

The most imposing structure in Jodhpur, and the finest fort in India, is the Mehrangarh Fort.  Sprawling over 5 sq. Kms,, the Fort has seven gates.

Built of red sandstone, the Mehrangarh Fort rises sharply on an almost vertical cliff.

The main entrance to the fort is Jai Pol which was built in 1806 by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victory in a battle.

Even though seventeen generations of Rathore rulers have added a number of temples, palaces and courtyards, surprisingly, the overall look is one of symmetry.

Inside the fort are various ornate and decorative structures constructed by different kings – the Phool Mahal, Takhat Mahal, Moti Mahal and Jhanki Mahal.

The bastioned walls with a sprinkling of old cannons on top have been hewn out of rocks and at some places are 24 metres thick and 40 metres high.

The museum inside the Fort has a wonderful collection of palanquins, howdahs, royal cradles, miniatures, musical instruments, costumes and furniture.

Ziplining (Zipling)

And it was here in this Fort, we first met the Flying Fox. The Flying Fox is not an animal. It is an outfit offering India’s first zip line tours or Ziplining (though I prefer to use the shorter word Zipling which I have coined).

Zipling is the sport of soaring high above the ground with your body strapped to a harness which is attached to a zip line which is an aerial runway created by tying a cable between two fixed points usually passing over scenic areas such as jungles, ravines, forests, meadows, sea and lakes.

The zip line is sloped so as to allow the rider to gradually glide down the length of the cable.

The zip lines at Mehrangarh Fort have cables suspended 30 to 200 feet above the ground passing over 6 different stages over the hills, forts and lakes.

The tour does appear a little nightmarish. But its perfectly safe and exhilerating.

Vultures at the Fort

I saw a large number of Vultures flying over the Fort. The locals clarified that this was one of the rare places in India where vultures regularly nest and breed.

 Umaid Bhawan Palace

In sharp contrast to the medieval Mehrangarh Fort is the Umaid Bhavan Palace, the latest palace of India.
Built of creamy-pink sandstone and marble, this palace is one of the largest private residences in the world.
It has 374 rooms including eight dining halls, two theatres, a ballroom, ornate reception halls and a huge underground swimming pool.

This palace was built by Maharaja Umaid Singh as a relief project to help his famine-stricken subjects. It took 15 years and 3,000 men to complete this architectural marvel.

The major portion of the palace has been converted into a 5-star heritage hotel. The present Mahrajah Gaj Singh (grandson of Umaid Singh) lives in a segregated portion of the palace. Another portion of the palace houses the museum which is open to tourists.
The museum has a rich collection of decorated weapons, paintings, porcelain, watches, antique clocks and French furniture.

Osian (65km from Jodhpur)

This unique temple town was located on a very important trade route between the 8th and the 12th centuries and contains 16 Hindu and Jain temples of exquisite quality built during that period.

But we went to Osian also to ride over the sand dunes on camel back.
Jaisalmer is more famous for its sand dunes (Sam Sand Dunes), but the sand dunes here are equally fascinating.

Other Places to see

Jaswant Thada is a white marble cenotaph with beautiful lattice carvings and pillars built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant II in 1899. It also contains cenotaphs of subsequent rulers and members of the royal family.

You should also visit Balsamand Lake and Gardens; Kailana Lake and Sardar Samand Lake.

Local delicacies

You can taste the local cuisine including shahi samosa, mirchi vada, makhan lassi and the famous Mawa Kachori dipped in sugar syrup.

Conclusion

Jodhpur is an important city.

The High Court of Rajasthan is located here. 
And it is well connected to the major cities of India, by air, rail and road.
A number of Heritage hotels of all varieties are coming up.

Jodhpur is famous for its feisty festivals, folk songs, hospitality and great food.
You can watch a lot of festivities during the month of October.

You can take a safari tour which will give you a glimpse of the lifestyle and craft of the potters and weavers, and you can also have a meal with them.

Incidentally, this is the home of the famous Bishnoi community where the black buck and other wild animals are savagely protected and it was here Salman Khan was caught and charged for wild life poaching.

[Slashdot] [Digg] [Reddit] [del.icio.us] [Facebook] [Technorati] [Google] [StumbleUpon] ]]>
https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/jodhpur-land-of-sand-and-sand-dunes-320/feed/ 3
Travel India Kanheri Caves https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/kanheri-caves-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-252/ https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/kanheri-caves-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-252/#respond Sat, 19 Jul 2008 04:03:39 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/kanheri-caves-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-252/ Read more ›]]>  
When we think of caves, we visualize locations in inaccessible places hidden amidst deep forests.
Travel India.Kanheri Caves.Main Vihara
Some caves were carved out in inaccessible places because of fear of prosecution by kings and rulers of different faiths, or due to the desire to remain far away from society, but many were situated on the ancient trade routes and served as halting places for traders and other travellers.

There are some beautiful, ancient, little known caves – Kanheri Caves – about an hour’s drive from Mumbai.
But as the old saying goes ‘there is shadow beneath the lamp’, most Mumbaites do not even know about this place.

 

The Name

The word Kanheri comes from two Sanskrit words   Kanha meaning Krishna and Giri meaning mountains.

Location

The Kanheri Caves are situated on a hill, 42 kms north of Mumbai in Boriveli, deep inside the Sanjay Gandhi National Park.

Description
Travel India.Kanheri Caves.Another Vihhara
Buddhist caves consist of two main types of structures:Chaityagrahas, or places of worship; and
Viharas, or monasteries, single and multiple celled residences of the Buddhist monks.
There are 109 caves in Kanheri dating from the 1st century BC to 9th Century AD, each connected with a flight of steps.
They were chiseled out of a massive outcrop of basaltic rock.
Most of the caves in Kanheri are Viharas meant for living, study, and meditation.Travel India.Kanheri Caves.Steps
The larger caves are Chaityagrahas, or halls for worship.
Many of these are lined with intricately carved Buddhist sculptures, reliefs and pillars, and contain rock-cut stupas for congregational worship.
Unlike the caves of Elephanta, most of the caves are spartan and unadorned.

Sculptural art can be seen in Caves like 2, 3, 41, 67, 89, 90, etc.  
Kanheri has the largest number of cave excavations in a single hill.

Important Caves

The most important Cave is Cave No. 3 built during the 6th century.
This has the last of the excavated Chaityagrahas of the Hinayana Order.
This Cave has 34 pillars and is like a colonnaded hall – 28 mtrs x13 mtrs in dimension.
Inside is a 5 mtrs high Dagoba, or stupa, and carvings depicting elephants kneeling and worshipping the stupa.

Cave 1 is an unfinished Chaityagraha, originally planned to have a double-storeyed verandah and a porch, apart from the pillared hall.
The cave is dated to 5th – 6th  century A.D. as the pillars with compressed cushion or amalaka top appear generally during this period.

Cave 11 is known as the Durbar Hall, or the Assembly Hall.
It consists of a huge hall with a front verandah.
There is a statue of the Buddha occupying the central place as in the case of idols in Hindu temples and also a number of cells for Buddhist monks.
The cave has four inscriptions of different periods. 

Cave 34 is a dark cell and has paintings of the Buddha on the ceiling.

Cave 41 has, besides other sculptures, a figure of the eleven headed Avalokiteshwara.

Cave 67 is a big cell, with the figure of Avalokiteshwara as savior flanked by two female figures in the verandah.
There are also images of the Buddha depicting the miracle of Sravasti.
 

Water System

Kanheri Caves had one of the best rainwater harvesting systems in the world.
The caves invariably contain a cistern for storing water.
There are 86 storage tanks with rock lids some of which have fallen inside and are too heavy to be lifted and placed back on the top.

Farther up the hill are the remains of an ancient water system, canals and cisterns that collected and channeled the rainwater into the huge tanks.

Recommendation Kanheri has some of the finest cave structures so close to Mumbai.

The site can be made a major tourist attraction – as popular as Elephanta and Karla Caves, but sincere efforts are required.

The 6 kms road leading to the Kanheri caves should be repaired and made safe for travellers.

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/kanheri-caves-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-252/feed/ 0
Travel India Mahabaleshwar https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/mahabaleshwar-hill-station-panchgani-lakes-waterfalls-strawberry-mapro-venna-lake-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-218/ https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/mahabaleshwar-hill-station-panchgani-lakes-waterfalls-strawberry-mapro-venna-lake-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-218/#comments Sun, 25 May 2008 16:25:24 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/mahabaleshwar-hill-station-panchgani-lakes-waterfalls-strawberry-mapro-venna-lake-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-218/ Read more ›]]>                     Travel India.Mahabaleshwar.View from Echo Point

Strawberry Country

Mahabaleshwar is the largest and one of the most popular hill stations of  Maharashtra.
It is situated at an altitude of 1372 metres above sea level – about 5 hours drive from Mumbai.

Mahabaleshwar has a cool climate and is a popular week end get away for Mumbaites.
It is a lovely place to spend a few days – relaxing and rejuvenating.
It is also the summer residence of the Governor of Maharashtra.

There are several lookout points which offer spectacular views of the surrounding hills and valleys.
There are lakes, waterfalls and a number of pleasant walks.
There is an old historic Shiva temple nearby.

History

We find the first mention of Mahabaleshwar in 1215 when King Singhan of Deogiri visited Old Mahabaleshwar and built a small temple and water tank at the source of the Krishna River.
In the early 14th century, Mahabaleshwar was ruled by the Moguls, but in the later half of the century, a Brahmin dynasty took over.
In the 15th Century, the Muslim Kings of Bijapur and Ahmednagar captured Mahabaleshwar.
In the middle of the 16th century, the Maratha family of Chandarao More, became rulers of Jaoli and Mahabaleshwar during whose period the Old Mahabaleshwar temple was rebuilt.

In the 17th century, Chatrapati Shivaji captured
Mahabaleshwar.
After him, the Peshwas ruled till 1819.
And after that, Mahabaleshwar became part of the Kingdom of Satara.
Colonel Lodwick, who later became a General, did a lot for the development of Mahabaleshwar.

Places to see in Mhabaleshwar

The Beautiful Points                              
Travel India.Mahabaleshwar.Arthur’s Seat
The main places of attraction are the “points”, named after the British officers who discovered these splendid locations.
There are about 25 Points in Mahabaleshwar. But you must see the following:
·         Arthur’s Seat
·         Marjorie Point
·         Kate’s Point
·         Bombay Point (Sunset Point)
·         Elephant’s head Point
·         Lingamala Falls (best viewed from behind Surya Resort)

Mapro Farm


The Mapro Farm which manufactures and sells a wide range of strawberry and fruit products – squashes, lemonades, fruit juices, etc. is worth a visit.

Shiva Temple

The old Shiva Temple in old Mahabaleshwar is the source of 5 rivers – Krishna River (the second longest river of peninsular India) and 4 other rivers (Koyana, Venna (Veni), Savitri, and Gayatri) all of which flow out from the cow (bull’s) mouth throughout the year.
The four rivers travel some distance before merging with the Krishna.

Mahabaleshwar Temple

This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of a Shiva Linga called Lord Mahabali.
Mahabaleshwar has been named after this deity of this temple.

Water Falls and Lakes


Travel India.Mahabaleshwar.Vienna Lake
There are three major waterfalls – the Lingmala waterfall (6 kms), Dhobi waterfall (3 kms) and Chinaman’s waterfall (2.5 kms). There is also the Venna Lake, which is 2.5 km long and has boating facilities.

Places to see around Mahabaleshwar

You can visit Panchgani (19 kms), Pratapgarh Fort (24 kms), Tapola  (25 kms), and Satara.


Moving around

Mahabaleshwar is built on a plateau.
Moving around is quite easy.
You can hire taxis, auto rickshaws and buses from the center of the town near Irani’s petrol pump, just opposite the Club.
You can also hire horses and there are lovely shady bridle paths for enjoyable rides.
 

Activities

You can do some boating in Venna Lake; Horse riding in Mahabaleshwar or explore some forts.


Reaching There

Air

The nearest airports are Mumbai and Pune.
Rail

The nearest station is Satara 47 kms. from  Mahabaleshwar.
There are trains from Mumbai and Bangalore.

Road

Mahabaleshwar to  Mumbai    245 kms via Panvel  ( 4 to 5 hours by car)
Mahabaleshwar to Pune         115 kms     

Recommendation


Mahabaleshwar used to known for its delicious strawberries.
Even though strawberries are growing in more places, the Mahabaleshwar strawberries are superior in taste and flavour.
There are numerous hotels to suit every budget.
The peak season is March-May.
It rains very heavily from June to September. But the place becomes lush green and acquires a unique romantic charm.

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/mahabaleshwar-hill-station-panchgani-lakes-waterfalls-strawberry-mapro-venna-lake-binoy-gupta-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-218/feed/ 12
Travel India Bhimbetka Caves https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/bhimbetka-bhimbetka-caves-bhimbetka-rock-shelters-bhim-baithaka-earliest-human-settlement-ancient-tools-primitve-rock-paintings-archaelogy-world-heritage-site-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-204/ https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/bhimbetka-bhimbetka-caves-bhimbetka-rock-shelters-bhim-baithaka-earliest-human-settlement-ancient-tools-primitve-rock-paintings-archaelogy-world-heritage-site-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-204/#comments Mon, 19 May 2008 03:31:23 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/bhimbetka-bhimbetka-caves-bhimbetka-rock-shelters-bhim-baithaka-earliest-human-settlement-ancient-tools-primitve-rock-paintings-archaelogy-world-heritage-site-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-204/ Read more ›]]>  Travel India.Bhimbetka Caves.1

Earliest Human Settlements in India


The Bhimbetka Caves, or Bhimbetka Rock Shelters, (also known as ‘Bhim Baithaka’ meaning Bhim’s seat), located at the southern edge of the Vindhyachal Hills, 45 km south of Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh, contain 15,000 year old Stone Age rock paintings – the earliest evidences of human life in India.The rock paintings, which are in remarkably good condition even today, take us on a journey into time and tell us about the lifestyle of our ancestors over a period spanning thousands of years.

Mythology

According to mythology, when the five Pandavas were banished from their kingdom, they came and stayed here in these caves. They even built a palace at Lakhajuhar made out of lac.
Bhima used the massive rocks for sitting. This is why the place is also called ‘Bhim Baithaka’.

Discovery

Based on information gathered from local adivasis (tribals), Bhimbetka was first mentioned in Indian archeological records in 1888 as a Buddhist site.
In
1957, Dr. V. S. Wakankar, an archaeologist from Vikram University, Ujjain stumbled upon these rock formations. They were similar to those he had seen in Spain and France.
Archaeological excavations over the next 16 years yielded more than 700 such shelters dating from the Lower Palaeolithic Age to the Early Medieval Age.
The site spread over 10 kms in length and about 3 kms in width has more than 700 rock shelters, of which more than 400 have paintings. But only about a dozen caves are open to tourists.


Rock Art and Paintings

Over thousands of years, the caves evolved into excellent rock-shelters – ideal sites for aboriginal settlements – highly secluded and safe atop the mountains.
The rock shelters and caves of Bhimbetka have a large number of interesting paintings which depict the lives and times of the people who lived in the caves, including depictions of animals, communal dancing and drinking, birth, death and
religious rites.Archeological studies have revealed a continuous sequence of Stone Age cultures (from the Lower Palaeolithic to the Medieval), as well as the world’s oldest stone walls and floors.

A broad chronology of the finds has been done, but a detailed chronology is yet to be created.

The paintings have been done mainly in red and white with occasional use of green and yellow.
We get an insight of the life style during those days.
The superimposition of paintings shows that the same canvas was used by different people at different periods of time.Archeologists have classified the drawings and paintings under five broad periods.

Travel India.Bhimbetka Caves
Period 1 – (Upper Paleolithic): These are linear representations, in green and dark red, of huge figures of animals, such as boar, bison, tigers, rhinoceroses and stick like humans.

Period II – (Mesolithic): These figures are comparatively smaller in size.
The stylised figures show linear decorations on the body.
In addition to animals, there are human figures and hunting scenes, giving a clear picture of the weapons used – barbed spears, pointed sticks, bows and arrows.
There are depictions of birds, animals, drinking, musical instruments, communal dances, pregnant women, mother and child, and men carrying dead.

Period III – (Chalcolithic): Similar to the paintings of Chalcolithic pottery, these paintings reveal that during the period, the cave dwellers of this area were in contact with the agricultural communities of the Malwa plains and exchanged goods with them.

Period IV – (Early Historic):
The figures of this group have a schematic and decorative style and are painted mainly in red, white and rarely green.
There is association of riders, depiction of religious symbols, Tunic-like dresses and scripts of different periods.

Period V – (Medieval): These paintings are geometric, linear and more schematic, but show degeneration and crudeness in their artistic style.
For the first time, we find paintings of the Brahmanical Hindu Gods like Ganesh and Natraja in these rock shelters.

The cave dwellers prepared the pigments they used by combining manganese, haematite, soft red stone, wood coal and plants. They made brushes out of pieces of fibrous plants.It is amazing that the paintings have not faded even after thousands of years.

What to see

The caves vary in sizes. 
Some are very small while some can accommodate 100 people.
The cave formations are unique.
One cave resembles the shape of a tortoise and the entrance resembles the mouth of a snake.
You must visit the Zoo Rock Cave, which is the most famous of the caves.
These rocks have painting as old as 10,000 B.C. depicting various animals like elephants, antelopes and horses.
You must visit Barkhera (7 kms from Bhimbetka).
This is Richest Open Air Stone Age Site in South Asia.
You can see Thousands of Acheulian Tools Scattered in the dense teak forest.

How to Reach

Air

Bhopal (45 Kms from Bhimbetka) is the nearest airport having direct flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Indore and Gwalior.

Rail

Bhopal has a railway station with trains from Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai.

Road
Bhimbetka is situated on the Bhopal-Hoshangabad National Highway No. 69.
It is well connected by good roads.

Best Season

July to March.

Recommendation

This is a must see place for everyone.
Nature has carefully preserved these clusters of natural rock shelters within massive outcrops of sandstone, above dense forests.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters are unique because the paintings and tools allow us to see the pattern of life over thousands of years.
They show the gradual transformation of man from a cave dweller to agriculturist and trader.
They also graphically depict the evolution of tools.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters bear a significant resemblance to similar rock art sites in other parts of the world –  Kakadu National Park in Australia, the cave paintings of the Bushmen in Kalahari Desert, and the Upper Paleolithic Lascaux cave paintings in France.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters were recognized as a World Heritage Site in 2002.

You can see more details and information at the following site:
http://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_rockart_bhimbetka.asp

]]>
https://binoygupta.com/travel_india/bhimbetka-bhimbetka-caves-bhimbetka-rock-shelters-bhim-baithaka-earliest-human-settlement-ancient-tools-primitve-rock-paintings-archaelogy-world-heritage-site-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-204/feed/ 12