Manicured Tea Gardens

I had heard a lot about Munnar, the beautiful hill station in South India.
And although I had visited places very close to Munnar, such as Theni (Tamil Nadu) – only about an hour’s drive from Munnar – due to shortage of time, I could not visit the place.

So, in early 2011, I decided to visit Munnar,

Munnar is a wonderful getaway in Kerala, nestling at an altitude of 1,829 metres, amidst luscious tea and coffee plantations, hills, valleys, lakes, waterfalls, forests, exhilarating walks, birds and animals. It is nicknamed the Kashmir of South India.
I booked a small suite in one of the finest resorts there. My RCI membership comes in handy on such occasions. I had to pay only nominal charges. I also booked return flights from Mumbai to Kochi three months in advance. So those too were cheap.

A two hour drive (120 kms) from Kochi airport took me into the heart of tea country. I was passing through beautiful tea gardens on all sides.

Tea

I recently read an article that tea drinking originated in India. Much as I would love to believe this,  this is not true.
Tea drinking originated in China almost 4750 years ago. It was known there as Ch’a. The word has been copied by India, Japan, Russia, Iran and the Middle East.

In A.D. 780, the Chinese tea expert Lu Yu published the first exclusive book on tea ‘Ch’a Ching’ meaning ‘Tea classic’. In this book, he has described various kinds of tea, their cultivation and manufacturing in China.
Though we had indigenous tea plants in India, commercial cultivation of tea entered India much later. In 1834, Lord William Bentinck, then Governor General of British India, appointed a Tea Committee to advise him on the feasibility of commercial tea cultivation in India. The first experimental samples of tea from indigenous tea plants were sent to Calcutta in 1836.
The rest is history.

Today, India is the world’s second largest producer (India was number one, but China overtook India to become the number one). And we have all kinds of tea….from the good old time tested orthodox “Britisher’s….cuppa tea” to all kinds of delicately flavoured exotic concoctions.

History of Munnar and its tea plantations

Munnar was discovered by John Daniel Manro, a British lawyer and planter, in the 1870s, when he visited the area on a hunting expedition. He immediately recognised the agricultural potential of the region.

In July 1877, Manro leased 581.12 sq kms (125,000 acres) of land from the Raja of Poonjar and formed a co-operative society called ‘North Travancore Land Planting and Agricultural Society’. The members of the society started farming coffee, sisal and cardamom.
Another European, A.H. Sharp, experimented with different crops such as coffee, cinchona, sisal and cardamom and concluded that the area was best suited for tea. He started tea plantations. Over the years, more and more tea plantations grew up.

In 1964, the Tata Group entered Munnar.  By 1980s, Tata Tea Ltd. had acquired most of the tea plantations to become the second largest integrated tea manufacturing facility in the world.

On 1st April 2005, Tata Tea Ltd. exited most of its plantations in Munnar and were succeeded by Kanan Devan Hills Plantations Company Private Limited which now owns 7 extensive gardens covering 24,000 hectares, with an annual production of 21 million kgs of tea.
An interesting feature of this company is that its 12,000 plus employees are its shareholders.

What to see

There are a number of places in and around Munnar which you can visit. During the rains, the place becomes a fairyland enveloped in fog and mist andfull of cascading waterfalls.

But where ever you go, when ever you go, you will see beautifully manicured tea gardens. Left to nature, the tea plants grow quite tall. But for tea cultivation, they have to be continuously cut to 1 metre or so to encourage the growth of new shoots. The fresh tea shoots are pinched or clipped every three or four days from which tea is made.

The tangled leftovers of dead tea plants make wonderful show pieces. They are dried, sand papered and given a coat of varnish. You can put a sheet of glass on them and use them as beautiful ornamental tables.

Tea Museum  (2 kms from Munnar)

The Kanan Devan Hills Plantations Company Private Limited maintains India’s first tea museum which is a must visit site for all visitors.
Here, you can learn about the growth of the tea industry – from the simple tea roller to the present fully automated tea factory of Madupatty.
You can learn about various aspects of tea processing and the operations that go into the making of black tea. You can also do some tea tasting.

You can see old-time bungalow furniture, iron safe, magneto phone, wooden bathtub, iron oven that used firewood, etc., and antique office equipments such as antiquated typewriters and PBX.
The museum has an iron-age burial urn from the 2nd century B.C. exhumed in the 1970s.

Near the entrance of the museum is a granite sundial, made in 1913 by the Art Industrial School at Nazareth in Tamil Nadu.

Mattupetty (13 kms from Munnar)

The Mattupetty lake and dam are situated at a height of 1700 mts. You can do some boating here.
You can visit the Indo-swiss dairy farm, which is close by. It has over 100 varieties of high yielding cattle.
Eravikulam National Park (15 km from Munnar)
PEERMEDE

There are other national parks around Munnar,  but the 97 sq. kms. Eravikulam National Park is the home of the endangered Nilgiri Tahr, a rare mountain goat. Originally established to protect the Nilgiri Tahr, the Park was declared a sanctuary in 1975. Its status was elevated to National Park in 1978.
The total number of Niligiri Tahrs here is estimated to be over 1300 – about half the world’s population.

The park is breathtakingly beautiful. The Anamudi peak (2695 mts), the highest peak in South India, is located in the Southern region of the park.
If you have the time and inclination, you can walk up to the top.

Marayoor (40 kms from Munnar)

Marayoor is the only place in Kerala that has a natural growth of sandalwood trees.
I visited the sandalwood factory of the forest department, the caves (muniyaras) with murals and relics from the New stone age civilization and the children’s park spread across a hectare of land under the canopy of a single banyan tree.
You can also visit the Thoovanam waterfalls and Rajiv Gandhi National Park nearby.

Dolmens

You can see muniyaras (caves) dating back to the New Stone Age near Kovilkadavu village. These caves contain rock paintings of great archaeological importance.
But what was more interesting for me were the dolmens, or old burial chambers, consisting of four erect stones covered by a horizontal capstone.

Neelakurunji flowers

You can also see the beautiful Neelakurunji flowers here, but there is only one hitch. The spectacular blue blooms cover the entire mountainside.
But they flower once in 12 years and the next flowering will take place in 2018.
So you will have to wait for another 7 years.

Reaching There

 The nearest airport is Kochi.
Kochi also has a railway station and is well connected by road also.
You can see a map of the place and get other information from the
following site:
http://www.munnar.org/munnar-maps.php

Summer Resort

The word Munnar is derived from the Tamil words moon – aar meaning three rivers because Munnar is located at the confluence of three rivers – Mudrapuzha, Nallathani and Kundala.
The most appropriate description of Munnar would be tea country. But it is much more than that.

The Britishers of South India had made Munnar their summer resort.

And it really rains during the monsoons. The rains here are 2^nd only to Cherrapunji in Assam.

You will surely fall in love with the place during the rains.

Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

 In the first part, I gave an overview of Ladakh and took
the reader east of Leh to Changla Pass and Pangong Lake.
In the second part, I wrote about some wonderful places West of Leh.
In this part, I am writing about Khardung La, the highest motorable road in the world to the North of Leh and the unbelievably beautiful Nubra Valley beyond.
I am also writing about the beautiful Tsomoriri Lake, and Dhahanu, the Land of the purest surviving Aryans to the South of LehNubra Valley via Khardung La – The Highest Motorable road in the World (40 Kms from Leh)Nubra Valley, popularly known as Ldumra or the valley of flowers, is situated in the north of Ladakh between 

the Karakoram and Ladakh ranges of the Himalayas.
The average altitude of the valley is 10,000 feet above sea level. The Nubra Valley was opened to tourists only in 1994. It is a fascinating place.
The road to Nubra Valley passes over Khardung La pass 18,390 feet, or 5602 metres, above sea level. This is the highest motorable road in the world.

We almost reached the pass, but found the road blocked by an errant truck which like the proverbial mule had suddenly decided it was time to stop and block the entire traffic.
So we got out and played around in the ice and snow.

We met two motor cyclists who had driven all the way from Bangalore covering more than 5,000 kms.
Even they had to turn back.If you cross Khardung La pass, you can see all the way south across the Indus valley to the endless peaks and ridges of the Zanskar range; and north to the giants of the Saser massif.From the pass, you travel down to Diskit, the main village and head quarter of Nubra Valley.
The Diskit Monastery, perched on an overhanging rock next to a stream, was foundedby Lama Sherab Zangpo of Stod around 1420 A.D.It has a rich collection of Thangkas, magnificent statues and old mural paintings.Diskit has a small market consisting of a row of shops.
The Shayok and Saichen Rivers drain the Nubra Valley.
You journey will take you through pretty villages, green farms, myricaria, willow and poplar trees. After leaving Diskit, you come across sand dunes.
These are just like the sand dunes of Rajasthan.
You can even take a ride on a bacterian (double humped) camel from Deskit to Hunder village lasting about two hours.
You can visit the King’s palace and the monastery in Hunder. Thereafter, you can cross the Shayok River and travel along Saichen River to Panamik.
There are a number of hot springs on the right of the road just before you enter the village. 

Dhahanu – land of the pure Aryans (163 Kms from Leh)

Dhahanu is situated to the south west of Leh, and being on a lower altitude, Dhahanu is warmer than Leh.
There are many small villages – but only two villages –  Dha and Hanu are open to tourists. You can see the Brokpa Community considered to be the last race of pure Aryans.
Their culture and religious practices are very similar to ancient pre- Buddhist religion known as Bon. 

Tsomoriri Lake (137 Kms from Leh)

Surrounded by 20,000 feet peaks, which effectively isolate the lake from the world, Tsomoriri Lake (salty lake) and other lakes are situated south east of Ladakh in the middle of the elevated district of Rupso Valley – off the Manali – Leh Road, near the site of old sulphur mines, at altitude ranging about 16,500 feet.
The valley is inhabited by a small scattered population of “Changpas” nomadic shepherds.You can visit the monastery on the top of the village, belonging to the yellow sect.
It has about 35 resident monks.
A kilometre ahead of Tsomoriri lake is the picturesque village of Korzok consisting of about a hundred families.
The area is rich in wildlife including the wild ass, black necked cranes and geese which flock to the lake side for breeding during the summer months.  

You should stay overnight at the lake.

Trekking

Ladakh is the trekkers’ paradise.
You can ask your hotel or the local agents to organise all kinds of treks – from simple two day affairs to the most difficult treks extending over three weeks.

Tibetan Medicine

Tibetan medicine is an ancient system of medicine based on the Indian Buddhist system of medicine developed by Buddha himself some 2500 years ago.
This indigenous health care system plays an important role in the health care
of Ladakhi communities. In Ladakh, the practitioners of this system are known as ‘Amchi’.
The skills are generally passed down from father to son or daughter within the village.
There are many Amchis who are the sixth generation.
This is known as the rGYUTPA lineage.New Amchis have to take their passing out examination orally in front of the whole village.
They are examined by a panel of senior Amchis from surrounding villages.  Amchis provide free health care to the villagers.
Quite often, they are also strong community leaders or Village Heads.
They are usually quite knowledgeable even in Astronomy and Astrology.
In return, the villagers respect the Amchis and help them with their agricultural activities and offerings.   

The Oracle

The oracle (both male and female) is something like a soothsayer.
If you have any disease, they will conduct a healing.
If you have any questions, they will advise you. You can request your hotel or travel agent to arrange a session with an Oracle.
The Oracle at Thikse Monastery, a villager with supernatural powers, a miraculous healer and predictor of the future, is considered to be the most powerful oracle in Ladakh.  

Importance of Leh

Leh was on the middle of the best trade route between Punjab and Central Asia.
During its hey days, caravans carried textiles, spices, silk, carpets, dyestuffs and narcotics.
The goods were transported through relays of pony transporters who took about two months to transport the goods from Amritsar to the Central Asian towns of Yarkand and Khotan, or vice versa
.
Leh was a bustling entrepot, with bazaars thronged with merchants from far countries.

A Legend and Folklore

Chovang Namgyal, one of the richest and powerful kings of Ladakh died in 1600 without a male heir.
His younger brother, Jamya Namgyal, succeeded him and ascended the throne.  
Alimir, the Mir of Skardo, attacked Leh and captured it.
He took Jamya Namgyal as prisoner. But the Mir’s daughter fell in love with the king and became pregnant.
The Mir married his daughter to Jamya Namgyal.
The oracles prophesied that the daughter would give birth to a
very strong and powerful king.
So Jamya Namgyal became king once again.
And his son became a great ruler.

Permits

Both Indians and foreigners  need permits to visit the distant places of Ladakh.
These are easily obtained in one day.
Your hotel will get them for you.

Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

In the first part, I gave an overview of Leh and Ladakh.
And I took the readers on a journey east of Leh – past Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Chemrey, over Changla Pass and on to the beautiful Pangong Lake.
In this second part, I will write about some wonderful places West of Leh.We will visit some of the oldest monasteries; the sangam (confluence) of Indus and Zanskar Rivers; the unique Magnetic Hill; and meet our furry friends – the Yak and Pashmina sheep.

Original Religion of Ladakh

I was curious to know what was the religion of Ladhak before Buddhism.
The original religion of Ladakh (and also Tibet) was Bon founded by Tönpa Shenrab or gShen-rab mi-bo (also known as Buddha Shenrab, Guru Shenrab, Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche, Lord Shenrab Miwo and other titles). gShenrab mi-bo is the founder of the Bön religion and occupies a position very similar to that of Śākyamuni in Buddhism.
Like the Buddha Shakyamuni, Tönpa Shenrab was of royal birth.
Tönpa Shenrab left his royal inheritance at the age of 31, to follow the path of enlightenment.
Tönpa Shenrab embraced the life of a renunciate and commenced austerities, spreading the dharma in the land of Zhangzhung near what is believed to be Mount Kailash. But we have no reliable sources to establish his historicity, his dates, his racial origin, his activities, and the authenticity of the enormous number of books attributed either directly to him or believed to be his word.
The latter, the Bonpo say, were written down after his death in much the same way as the Buddhist scriptures were assembled.
No pre-10th century materials are available which could throw light on activities such as his visit to Tibet.

A new wave of Buddhism entered Ladakh when the reformist sect of the Gelugpa created by Tsongkhapa led to the reestablishment of monasteries in the 15th century.
Most of the old shrines of the earlier Bon religion were converted into Buddhist monasteries.

 
Lamayuru Monastery (125 Kms west of Leh)

This is the oldest and most spectacularly set monastery built in the 10th century by Rinchen Zangpo at the request of the King of Ladakh.But Lamayuru has a more historic pre-Buddhist, Bon history, and is one of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh.
Its real name is Yungdrung, signifying swastika.

Also known as Tharpa Ling or “Place of Freedom”, the Lamayuru Monastery is considered a sanctuary, even for criminals; and is guarded by an 11-headed, 1000-eyed image of Chenrezi, the Buddha of Compassion.

The Yak and the Pashmina Sheep
In the village below Lamayuru Monastery, we found some Pashmina sheep who give the finest wool.

We also saw the Yak.
Today, no Yak survive in the wild in Ladakh.
All the existing ones are domesticated ones.
I asked the driver how much milk the Yak gives.
He answered the Yak does not give milk.
The reason is the word Yak is used for the male of the species.

Hills of Different ColoursWhen you drive from Leh towards Lamayuru, you cross barren hills.
The colours of the hills are remarkably different.
Snow White. Blues. Pinks and Mauves.

You pass through Orchards of Apricots.

You also travel along the crystal clear Indus River gurgling on its long journey.
 

Nimu – Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers (17 Kms from Leh)

The Zanskar river merges into the Indus at this beautiful and scenic spot.

Magnetic Hill (30 kms from Leh)This is a unique place.
It defies the law of gravity.
A vehicle parked in neutral gear on the metallic road here actually slides up the hill.
The locals told me that some scientists wanted to do some testing but permission was refused.

Lekir Monastery (52 Kms from Leh)

Likir was built more than 500 years ago during the reign of Lachen Gyalpo and in those days, it housed more than 600 monks.
The monks of Likir were the caretakers of Alchi.
The head Lama today is the younger brother of H.H. the Dalai Lama, although he is not in residence.Likir used to house images and Thankas that surpassed those at Alchi.
Many of the old treasures and much of the old structure was destroyed in a fire.
Most of the present buildings date from the 18th century.
The Monastery has a small, but interesting, museum.

Alchi Monastery (70 Kms from Leh)

Alchi Monastery is the only monastery in Ladakh built on flat ground.
The Monastery contains three 3-story high statues of the Bodhisatvas.
One of the largest and most famous of all monasteries, Alchi was built by the great translator Ringchem Zangpo in the 11th century which accounts for the Kashmiri-Hindu influence in the wooden carvings on the doors, ceiling designs and murals..

In the next part – Leh III, I will write about some more interesting places.
 

 Ladakh is unique.
It is unlike any other place in the world.
It really belongs to a bye gone era forgotten by time itself. Ladakh is the enigmatic land of sand and snow.
You can see snow covered mountains and sand dunes in the same place – at heights exceeding 11,500 feet (3,520 metres).
You can ride on long haired two humped camels or watch highly endangered birds and animals.
You can amble through ancient monasteries dramatically perched on high mountains and join the monks in their daily prayers or explore the mysterious corridors of old palaces.
You can indulge yourself in white water rafting or trek through the enchanting wilderness for a couple of days or more.  

Location                                                                                       

Ladakh is part of Jammu and Kashmir State in north India.
It consists of two districts – Leh and Kargil.
Leh district, with an area of 45,110 Sq kms, covers more than half the state and is the largest district in India.
Leh district comprises of Leh town, 112 inhabited villages and one un-inhabited village.
The total population of Leh district is a mere 1.17 lacs.
It is the least populated district in India.

Ladakh lies in the rain shadow of the Great Himalayas.
Therefore, it does not receive any rain during the monsoons and is extremely dry.
Even when you are asleep, the lips become parched and the throat begs for water.
But Ladakh receives heavy snowfall throughout the long winter months (November to late May).The region is watered by the Indus and Zanskar rivers.
The Indus originates in a spring called Singikahad near Mansarovar Lake on the northern side of the Himalayan range in Mount Kailash in Tibet and enters India near Leh.The Zanskar originates in the glaciers of the Zanskar range and merges with the Indus seventeen kms from Leh.
The landscape resembles that of neighbouring Tibet; and therefore, the area is also called “Little Tibet”.
The Buddhist people here show the same outward appearance as their Tibetan counterparts.
But the culture of the Ladhaki Buddhists is more similar to that of Bhutan.

Religion

81.18 % of the people are Buddhists. 15.32 % are Muslims.  2.99 % are Hindus.

Leh

Leh, the capital of Ladakh, is located at an altitude of 11,552 ft. (3,521 metres).
The sun is very bright, and it is pleasantly warm in the sun, but the temperature sharply drops at night, even in summer.
Leh is an archaic town, with a mosque and missionary schools.
You can see the Leh Palace from any place in the town.
If you are interested in exploring local life, walk through the narrow lanes behind the Mosque in the main market area.

History

Ladakh was an important Buddhist centre, in the 3rd century BC, much before the saint Padmasambhava converted Tibet to Buddhism.
But we do not know much about the early history of Ladakh.After the demise of the first Tibetan empire in 1020, Tibet was divided amongst the three princes.
One of them moved over to Ladakh and founded the first royal dynasty there.
They had their capital at Shey and built many forts.
In the following centuries, the Ladakhi kings extended their territory.
Lhachen Utpala (1080 to 1110) expanded his kingdom to the boundaries of the related dynasties of Purang and Mustang (in present-day Nepal).Lhachen Bhagan unified Ladakh in 1470 and founded a new dynasty, Namgyal.
In 1533, the Great King Soyang Namgyal united the whole region into one large kingdom and built his capital at Leh.
After him, Kings Sengge Namgyal (1570 to 1620) and Deldan Namgyal (1620-1660) extended their empire.
Even today, the descendents of the Namgyal dynasty are regarded as the rulers of Ladakh by the local people, and the Queen of Stok has been a member of the Indian Parliament.
The great fifth Dalai Lama of Tibet (Nawang Lobsang Gyatso 1617-82) convinced the Mongolians, whom he had converted to Lamaism, to wage war against West Tibet and Ladakh. The Ladhaki King Delegs Namgyal requested Ibrahim Khan, the Mughal governor of Kashmir, for help. The Governor sent troops and the Mongols were defeated.
But in return, Ladakh was forced to pay a regular tribute to the Mughals and had to allow construction of a mosque in Leh. In 1834, the Dogra power was at its peak in Jammu and Kashmir. They sent their General Zorawar Singh to capture Leh.
Thus, Ladakh and the adjoining Baltistan came under Dogra suzerainty.
You can see the remains of the small Zorawar Fort just outside Leh.
The royal family of Ladakh shifted to the palace at Stok, where they continue to live even today.
Jammu and Kashmir was created following the Treaty of Amritsar signed on March 16, 1846 between the British Government and Gulab Singh, the Dogra ruler. It included Ladakh and Baltistan.

But due to the partition of India, Baltistan became part of Pakistan, while Ladakh remained in India as part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir.

Travelling to Leh                                                                                         For the past three years, I had been planning to visit Leh.
But for one reason or another, the trip had to be postponed.
I finally made it in April 2008.We left Mumbai for Delhi by a night flight and reached Delhi airport around midnight.
Since the flight to Leh was scheduled to leave Delhi early next morning, we decided to spend the night in the airport.

The airport was under renovation. All the retiring rooms had been demolished.
Chairs were limited which left passengers clustering on the floors or sitting on their baggage trolleys.
Fortunately, there were several food counters offering a variety of eatables.We left Delhi early next morning.
The flight took us over the plains, then over brown and black hills.
Suddenly, the Himalayan range appeared in the distance.
The tops were covered with white snow. The aeroplane flew above and over the Himalayas at a height of 36,000 feet, far above the highest peaks.
We could see snow-capped peaks down below.
We could see large glaciers ending into trickling tongues of glistening water which joined each other  to form small and then large rivers.Suddenly, the aeroplane entered Leh aerospace.
We could see the small town surrounded by towering snow covered peaks.
Finally, we landed at Leh. There had been heavy snowfall the previous night.
All around was only snow, snow and more snow.
The temperature was around – 5 degree celsius.

Places to see

There are a number of interesting places and monasteries to see in and around Leh.
Some of the important places are:
Shey, Leh and Stok Palaces;
the monasteries of Shey, Hemis, Alchi, Thikse and Lamayuru;
Magnetic hill;
Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers;Changla Pass and the Khardungla Pass.

First Day

The altitude of Leh is about 11,500 feet. The oxygen content is quite low.
All tourists are advised to spend the first day in the hotel itself to get acclimatized to the high altitude.
We took breakfast and lunch in the hotel and spent the greater part of the day doing nothing.
In the evening, we leisurely walked around the market and explored the surroundings.
Too much exertion can induce mountain sickness.

Second and Third Day

You can see Leh and the nearby places.

Gompa Soma (Jokhang) (Gompa means Monastery)

The Ladakh Buddhist Association built this small Monastery in 1957 – opposite the State Bank of India, in the main bazaar or market place.
This Monastery contains a statue of Joyo Rinpochey (crowned Buddha).
Leh Palace                                                                   

The historic nine storeyed palace built by King Sengge Namgyal in 1533 is situated on a hill overlooking Leh and commands a grand view of the entire town.
The Leh Palace was built in the grand Tibetan style of architecture.
It inspired the design of the famous Potala of Lhasa, built half a century later.

You can climb up to the Leh Palace, constructed for the Ladakhi royal family before it was exiled to Stok in 1830 by the Dogra armies and explore the interiors.
Leh Palace is maintained by the Archaelogical Survey of India. There is a small entrance fee to enter the palace.
But when we reached there, there were no guards or watchman.
The small Archaelogical Survey office was locked. 
Se we entered the Palace and walked up and down several storeys.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa

The Namgyal Tsemo Gompa of Ladakh was founded by King Tashi Namgyal Namgyal around the year 1430. It stands on a crag just behind Leh palace, providing a full view of the town of Leh. Namgyal Tsemo Gompa has a rich collection of ancient manuscripts and wall paintings.
It also houses statues of Avaloketesvara and Manjushri, approximately one storey high.
One of the most treasured possessions of the monastery is a three-storey high solid gold statue of Maitriya Buddha (future Buddha, also known as the laughing Buddha).Nearby, on Namgyal Tsemo, the peak overlooking the town, are the ruins of the fort built, by the King Tashi Namgyal.

Sankar Gompa (3 Kms from Leh)

Sankar Gompa is unique because it is one of the rare monasteries built in a valley (almost all monasteries are built on tops of hills).This monastery is a subsidiary of the Spituk Gompa and belongs to the Gelukpa or the Yellow Hat Sect.
The monastery also serves as the official residence of the Ladakh’s head of Gelukpa Sect, known as the Kushok Bakul. To the right of the front yard of the monastery is the Dukhang (assembly hall). Both sides of its entrance are adorned with paintings of the Guardian of the Four Directions. On the left wall of the entrance verandah is a “Wheel of Life”, held by Yama.As you enter the Dukhang, you come across some relatively new paintings of various Buddhas, along with guardian deities. There is also a throne inside the Dukhang, reserved for the head lama of the monastery.
On the right-hand side of the throne is an image of Avalokitesvara (Lord of All He Surveys) with 1000 arms and 11 heads.

Sankar Gompa has a complete set of Kandshur – 108 volumes of Buddha’s teachings.

Shanti Stupa (Japanese Peace Pagoda) (4 Kms from Leh)

Shanti Stupa, located on a hill outside Leh, was built by a Japanese religious organization headed by Head Monk Nakamura with help from the organization and from the local people.
It was inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1985. Architecturally, it has a distinct Japanese touch with small clean rooms on the side for meditation and the main Japanese shrine at the entrance.
You get a bird’s eye view of Leh town and the surrounding mountain peaks.

Hall of Fame (11 Kms from Leh)                     

The Hall of Fame – a glorious museum built by the military to display war memorabilia is worth visiting.
It will give you some idea of the extreme conditions in which our military live to defend the Indian borders.
It will also give you information about the brave soldiers who fought in the various wars in and around Ladakh, the weapons used and seized, and the equipments they use.

Spituk Monastery (18 Kms from Leh)

Spituk monastery is perched high on a hill top near the Indus river overlooking the Leh airport.
It was founded in 11th century.It is a Gelugpa or Yellow Hat monastery with about 125 monks.
The Gelugpas are the sect to which the Dalai Lama belongs.
The head lama is also the head of Shankar Gompa in Leh, and also represents Ladakh in the Indian Parliament.

Stok Palace and Gompa (15 kms to the south of Leh)

The four storeys high Stok Palace was the official residence of the royal family of Ladakh and was constructed in 1814 by Ladakh’s last ruler. The present successors of the king live here. Stok Monastery is a subsidiary of the Spituk Gompa and belongs to the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism.
As you enter the verandah of the monastery, you will come across bright friezes, depicting the Guardians of the Four Directions. The Dukhang of the monastery was repainted, not a long time back, and displays a rich collection of banners and thankas. There are two thrones inside the Dukhang. The central one has been reserved for the Dalai Lama, while the one on its right is for the head lama of Stok Monastery.One of the major attractions of the Stok Monastery is its library which has a complete set of the Kandshur, the 108 volumes of the Buddha’s teachings.

Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace                                

You can visit the lovely, two-story, golden-roofed summer palace of the Dalai Lama at Choklamsar, a village outside Leh.
You can also visit the school, clinic, and gift shop at the Tibetan Refugee Center. Fourth and Fifth DaysYou can visit the beautiful Pangong Lake (140 Kms from Leh) visiting Shey, Thiksey, Hemis, Chemrey  monasteries and Changla Pass on the way.
You should plan to make a night halt at Pangong Lake.

Shey Palace and Monastery (15 Kms from Leh)

Shey is the former palace of the kings of Ladakh.
It was built over 550 years ago by Lhachen Palgyigon, the first king of Ladakh.
The foundation of the monastery dates back to the earliest history of Ladakh, and there is an inscription on the rocks below the palace dating from the time Buddhism first arrived in the Himalayas.The monastery contains a 12 meters high golden Buddha statue with blue hair.
King Dalden Namgyal had the statue constructed in the 17th century.
You may watch the monks during their prayers.

Thiksey Monastery (20 Kms from Leh)

This is one of the most photographed monasteries in Ladakh.Built some 600 years ago, Thiksey monastery consists of 12 levels ascending a hillside, culminating in the lama’s private abode at the top.
About 100 monks of the yellow- hat sect of Buddhism live here.
After entering the main courtyard to the immediate right and up several steps is a new temple containing a large Buddha statue.
The H.H. Dalai Lama constructed this Buddha, 15 meters tall, in 1980 to commemorate a visit to Thiksey.
The statue was made under the guidance, supervision and direction of Kushok Nawang Chamba Stanzin, the present head Lama of Thiksey monastery.The statue is the largest Buddha figure in Ladakh which took four years to construct and is made of clay and covered with gold paint. The monastery houses the sacred Kangyur and Stangyur texts. Located directly above this temple is a small narrow room used as school room for the local boys. Here the Lamas instruct the children and some are later selected to become lamas.Traditionally, Ladakhi families donated one son to become lamas, although this practice is gradually disappearing.In a small room behind the main prayer room is large image of Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha) flanked by two smaller Bodhisattava images.
On the left is the eleven-headed Avalokitashwara, a form of the Buddha.
On the rooftop is Lamokhang temple where only men may enter.
On the top is Thiksey library, containing numerous volumes, including Kangyur and Stangyur.

Hemis Monastery (40 Kms south of Leh)

Hemis monastery is one of the most famous and largest of all monasteries in Ladakh,.
It was founded in 17th century by Stagsang Raschegn who was invited to Ladakh by King Singee Namgyal.
The king offered him religious estates and attended him as his principal guru.The monastery has well preserved Thankas and copper gilt statue of the lord Buddha, various stupas made of gold and silver and many auspicious objects.
Hempis also has the largest Thanka in Ladakh – over 12 mtrs. long. It belongs to the Drukpa order

Chemrey Monastery (40 Kms south of Leh)

This monastery situated on a rocky outcrop in the valley resembles a medieval European castle when viewed from the rear.
This monastery was also founded by Stagsang Raschegn, who founded Hemis Monastery.
Even today, Hemis and Chemrey monasteries have the same head lama.  

Changla Pass (17,350 feet)                                    

This is the third highest motorable pass in the world.              
You can expect to find a lot of ice and snow.
Wear woollens and a jacket if you plan to play in the ice.
We even built a Santa Claus and had tea with the military personnel there.

Pangong Lake (150 Kms south of Leh)

This beautiful lake is the most beautiful brackish water lake in the country.
It has become a favourite of Bollywood film makers.The international boundary between China and India passes through the 6 kms long and 130 kms wide Lake.
Nomadic people living in the tiny villages around Pangong Lake are mostly of Chang-Pa tribe of Tibet and southeast Ladakh.
It is possible to visit the Lake and return to Leh the same day, but I strongly recommend a night stay there.

Recommendation                                                           

This is only the first part. Read on……
Leh is a beautiful place. There is so much to see….
The hotel and taxi owners have effective associations which fix the rates they can charge.
No hotel or taxi can charge more than the prescribed amount.
The people are nice and simple.
The two rosy apples their cheeks really are, are enough to make any one happy. The simplest way to travel to Leh is to fly from Delhi to Leh.
There are three flights every day.Many tourists experience mountain sickness at Leh.
Starting from the previous night, take Diamox® (acetazolamide) 125 mg. tablets twice a day.
This will help you breath deeper and faster and help you get more oxygen.

You can see the status of the roads leading into Ladakh and the temperatures at Leh at the following site:
http://leh.nic.in

the Best Hill Station of Gujarat

Saputara literally means Abode of the Snakes. But don’t panic. Saputara is not a place full of snakes.
There is a sacred snake image on the banks of the river Sarpagana worshipped by the Adivasis (tribal people) during festivals.Saputara is a beautiful, planned, hill station in Gujarat.
Not too well known, it is clean and not too crowded.
The cool climate; its motorable distance from Mumbai, Nasik, and Surat; and the beautiful roads make it a place worth visiting.

Location

Saputara is located at an altitude of 1000 metres atop the second highest plateau in the Dang forest area of the Sahyadri range in Gujarat.
The hill station is surrounded by dense forests with Adivasi villages.    

Places to See

There are plenty of places to see in and around Saputara.

Saputara Lake
 

Botanical Garden
The large 24-hectare botanical garden has more than 1,400 varieties of plants from all over India.

Gardens
There are several other gardens at Saputara – like the Lake Garden, the Step Garden and the Rose Garden.

Sunrise Point

Besides offering a good view of the sunrise, Sunrise Point offers the finest view of Saputara and adjoining Malegoan.You have to walk about 1.5 km.


Sunset Point

This point offers a breathtaking view of the Dang Forest.
You can also spot Adivasi (tribal) villages in the thick forests.
The Ropeway

You can travel to the Sunset Point by ropeway.
The ten-minute ride over the valleys is breathtaking.
A rope ride on a moonlit night is an unforgettable experience.
  


Purna Wildlife Sanctuary
You can visit the Purna Wildlife Sanctuary in the Mahal Bardipura forest, 60 kms from Saputara.
The sanctuary is full of  bamboo glades and sparkling rivers .

Vansda National Park
This former private forest of the Maharaja of Vansda is a small forest covering an area of 24 sq km.
But it has leopards, python, four-horned antelope, pangolin, rusty-spotted cats and giant squirrels. You have to obtain prior permission from the Chief Wildlife Warden of Gandhinagar, or DFO, Ahwa, to visit the park.

Gira Falls

Just 52 km away from Saputara , the Gira Falls is a must see attraction – especially during the monsoons.

 Ambapada
This is a typical Dangi Village near the Gira Falls.
Here you can see the Adivasi tribals in their own environment.

Unnai Mata temple and Hot Springs
This is a historical temple.
You can take a bath in the hot water spring here.

Museum
The Danga Cultural and Ecological Museum is a small museum containing a number of objects relating to the local tribes.

Accommodation

There are a few private hotels where you can stay.
However, the Gujarat Tourism’s hill resort offers good, clean and economical accommodation with cottages and log huts too.

Climate

The climate here is cool and refreshingly crisp, with the highest temperature, even in summer, being 28 degree C.
If you want to get away from the heat of the metros, summer is the best time to visit this hill station.
However, the rains do add more charm to the place.

Fact File

Road (distances from Saputara)
Bilimora                             112 kms.
Mumbai                             250 kms. (via  Nasik, Dindori, vani)
Nasik                                  76 kms.                                                                    
Pune                                 275 kms.                                                                    Shirdi                                166 kms.                                                                     
Surat                                 164 kms.
Valsad                              128 kms.
All kinds of public conveyance are available. Railway Stations
The nearest stations are:                                                                                                
Bilimora on Western Railway and                                                                      
Nasik Road on Central Railway.

Recommendation

Saputara is a wonderful week end getaway from Mumbai and other cities of Maharashtra and Gujarat.
The road is very good and picturesque.
You can even visit the dense forests and the Adivasi tribals.

Matheran

Matheran is a no-vehicle zone… so go ahead and walk in the clouds at this hill-station.
Prized, protected: Rain clouds, dense mist
It is the only hill-station where any kind of public or private transport is prohibited by law; and the prohibition enforced effectively. Besides the buses, cars and other four-wheelers and two-wheelers such as motorbikes, even bicycles are not allowed inside Matheran.
As for the plastic bottles and carry-bags littered by irresponsible tourists, this hill-station tackled the problem long ago. In November 2002, Prof H.Y. Mohan Ram, Chairman of a Government Expert Committee, declared Matheran clean and free of garbage, and the cleanest hill-station of India.

Location

Matheran is 110 km, about two-and-a-half-hour drive, from Mumbai. The road is good and motorable round the year. But as vehicles are not allowed inside, you have to leave your vehicle at Dasturi Naka, 3 km from Matheran, which has a good parking lot.
Next you either walk up to Matheran or hire a pony. The journey is really enjoyable. The narrow, shaded pathways winding through dense forests rejuvenate tired lungs with fresh air.
Matheran is perched amidst the Sahyadri hills (Western Ghats) 803 meters above sea level. The 7.35-sq-km town has a population of around 4,000. Surprisingly, it also has a railway station.

Discovery

Matheran was discovered by Sir Hugh Poyntz Malet, the Collector of Thane district, in 1850. But it was Lord Elphinstone, the Governor of Bombay, who made Matheran popular. He visited the place in 1855 and literally fell in love with it. He built a bungalow named Elphinstone Lodge and introduced roadways.

The Toy Train

Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy conceived the imaginative idea of a 2-ft narrow-gauge railway from Neral to Matheran (20 km). He imported three specially made engines from Germany in 1905. The railway was opened in 1907.
The train chugs slowly along the age-old track, passing through dense forests, grassy hillsides, vertical cliffs, plains and rolling plateaus.
The torrential rains and landslides of July 26, 2005, badly damaged the tracks and the train service had to be suspended.
The Matheran train, which will be 100 years old on April 16, 2007, is likely to attain World Heritage status this year.

Sightseeing

Mahatma Gandhi Road, the town’s main thoroughfare, is lined by shops of all shapes and sizes. You can buy the famous local sweet chikki, as also honey; riding boots, shoes, sandals, slippers, walking sticks and local handicrafts are available too.
Matheran has around 33 lookout points that offer spectacular views of the sunrise and sunset, and of the plains below and across the Western Ghats.
Alexander Point, Charlotte Lake, Chowk Point, Coronation Point, Echo Point, Hart Point, Khandala Point, Lord’s Point, Louisa Point, Monkey Point, Mount Barry, One Tree Hill, Panorama Point, Porcupine Point and Shivaji’s Ladder are some of the interesting names given to these spots.
You can hike to these points or hire a pony.

Best time to visit

Matheran is pleasant throughout the year. But the best time is between October and May after the monsoons. You will see plenty of waterfalls, mist-covered valleys, vibrant greenery and floating clouds.
The rain clouds swoop down to kiss the Sahyadris. There are heavy rainfalls. The plants and trees sparkle in their finest greenery. Dense mist and patches of clouds play hide-and-seek. The entire vista acquires a fairytale mystique.
Cotton clothing is sufficient during summer. Carry light woollens in winter; and raincoats and rubber shoes during the monsoons.

Where to stay

There are several resorts to suit all budgets. The MTDC holiday resort is located near Dasturi Naka. Other resorts include Brightlands Resorts, Byke Retreat, Lord’s Central, Regal, Royal, Rugby, Usha Ascot and Verandah in the Forest.

Kodaikanal

The Tamil word Kodaikanal which means ‘Gift of the Forest’ aptly describes this quaint, little, hill station. No other name could describe this place better!

Nestling deep amidst thick forests, Kodaikanal is a unique hill station where you would love to spend a few days. You would love to walk through the wooded forests. Perhaps take a bath in one of the splashing waterfalls. Row in the lake. Try horse riding. Or simply admire the endless varieties of flaura and fauna.

Covering an area of 21.45 square kilometers, Kodaikanal is situated on the southern tip of upper Palani hills in the Western Ghats of Tamil Nadu at an altitude of about 2133 metres. Except during the monsoons, from October to December, when the monsoons really pour, the weather is fairly uniform throughout the year.

History

There is archaeological evidence of the existence of human beings in this area during the pre-Christ years.
Prehistoric megalith creations – dolmens which are large stone constructions – dating from well before written history, earthen pots and other artifacts which have been found here prove that the earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Paliyans and Pulyans tribes.
Relics and artifacts of the Paliyans can be seen in the Shenbaganur Museum. A few descendents of the Paliyans tribe can also be seen near Kukkal Caves.

However, the earliest modern day settlers of Kodaikanal were the 14th century migrants from the foothills of Palani who escaped to Kodaikanal from the invasions of Tippu Sultan.

Lieutenant B. S. Ward, a British surveyor, was the first European to visit Kodaikanal in 1821. He was looking for a clean and healthy place around Madurai, which would provide relief to the missionaries and other foreigners, living and working in south Tamil Nadu, from the summer heat and the occasional epidemics.

There were no roads and visitors had to travel by horse, bullock-cart or palanquin. The forests were infested with thieves, robbers and wild animals. Yet, Kodaikanal had such a wonderful climate and pristine charm that it became popular amongst the immigrant population and the princely families.

In 1834, the Collector of Madurai climbed up from Devadanapatti and built a small bungalow at Kodaikanal. By the second half of the 19th century, churches and other colonial structures started popping up in and around Kodaikanal. Examples of some beautiful structures are the Union Church built in 1895; La Providence Church for Anglicans built in 1860; and a large number of private bungalows.

In 1863, Sir Vere Hendry Levinge (1819-1885), who was then the Collector of Madurai, created the 60 acres Kodai Lake by damming three streams flowing through. He stocked the lake with fish. He also brought the first boat from Tuticorin. After his retirement, he settled down in Kodaikanal.

A boat club was formed in Kodaikanal in 1890. A new boathouse was constructed in 1910. Since May 1929, the club has permitted tourists to join the club as temporary members and avail of boating facilities.

Missionaries established church properties. Many of the ruling princes built summer holiday-homes. Clubs, school and hotels came up. Civic amenities were introduced. Kodaikanal developed slowly, but steadily. Kodaikanal is the only hill station in India developed by the Americans. They also established the famous Kodaikanal International School.

The extension of the railway line from Chennai to Tirunelveli (598 kilometres) made Kodaikanal really popular. A station was built at Ammainayakkanur – 80 kilometres from Kodaikanal. (This was later renamed Kodai Road.) The first steam engine arrived in 1875 and made the journey to Kodaikanal far easier. Though construction of the road was completed in 1914, it was opened to the public only two years later – in 1916. And suddenly, Kodaikanal was thrown open to the general public.

Kodai Lake

The centre of all activities in Kodaikanal is the beautiful star shaped Kodai Lake. A 5 kilometres long road skirts the 60 acres lake.

Rowing boats, pedal boats and other kinds of boats belonging to T.T.D.C., Boat Club and Carlton hotel can be hired on an hourly basis.

Fishing is permitted. But prior permission has to be obtained from the Inspector of Fisheries.

Pony rides for a quarter, half and full round of the lake are available. Ponies can also be hired on hourly basis. Bicycles also are available on rent.

Bryant Park

The beautiful Bryant Park, stretching across 20.5 acres of undulating greenery is situated in the heart of the town. It was planned and given shape in 1908 by Mr. H.D. Bryant, a forest officer of Madurai.

The Park is situated on the eastern side of the lake, well within walking distance. It has a collection of over 300 species of plants. The Park contains a 150 years old Eucalyptus tree and a historic Bodhi tree. A portion of the Park contains 740 varieties of roses.

The glasshouse in the Park displays exotic indoor plants and some very good plant arrangements. There is a large lake with water lilies and other aquatic plants.

The Park also has the rare Kurinji plant which flowers once every 12 years. The Kurinji last bloomed in 2006.

The Park authorities also sell ornamental plants at reasonable prices.

Coaker’s Walk (1 kilometre)

In 1872, Lt. Coaker cut a 1 kilometre long path along the ridge of a steep slope around Mt. Nebo on the southeastern side of Kodaikanal. The narrow, winding path offers some of the best views of the plains. There is a telescope house on Coaker’s Walk from where you can see distant vistas.

On a clear, cloudless day, you can see the Dolphin’s nose in the south, Pambar river valley in the southeast, Periyakulam and even the city of Madurai.

If you are lucky, you could witness the rare phenomenon called `Brachem Spectre’. When the sun is behind you and the cloud and mist in front, you could see your shadow on the clouds with a rainbow halo.

The Pillar Rocks (7 kilometres)

The three pillar-like rock boulders about 122 meters high stand next to each other. Somehow, they remind me of three giggling girls, huddled together.

It is amazing how one minute you clearly see the three pillars. Then within minutes, the mist and the clouds swirl up and cover the pillars. The pillar rocks become invisible!

Usually, early morning is the safest time to ensure visibility.

Pine Forests

The pine tree is not a native of India. It was introduced from Britain. This man-made pine forest, the floor covered with a soft, plush, natural carpet of pine needles, with pinecones lying all around, is an ideal place for picnic.

Silver Cascade Falls (8 kilometres)

The overflow of Kodai Lake has created one of the most popular spots of Kodaikanal – the 54 metres high Silver Cascade falls.

This fall is located on the Ghat road on the way from Madurai to Kodaikanal just 8 kilometres before Kodaikanal. You will see it as you enter and leave Kodaikanal.

This is also a favourite bathing spot for tourists. And this is the place you will find all kinds of photographers.

Green Valley View (5.5 kilometres)

Very near the Golf Club, the Green Valley View gives a panoramic view of the entire Vaigai Dam. The valley is very deep and dangerous. Some individuals have committed suicide here. For this reason, this place is also called “Suicide Point”. A sturdy fencing has been constructed. And you can see plenty of rhesus monkeys.

The narrow path leading to the viewpoint is lined with shops. You can purchase eatables, handicrafts and toys.

Solar Physical Observatory (32 kilometres)

The country’s only Solar Physical Laboratory, the Kodaikanal Observatory of the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, was founded here in 1898 at the highest point in Kodaikanal at an altitude of 2343 metres in the beautiful Palani hills in Southern India. All the activities of the Madras Observatory were shifted to Kodaikanal.

Visitors can observe the stars and planetary movements during visiting hours and on prior appointments.

Kukkal Caves (40 kilometres)

The Kukkal Caves offer a beautiful campsite – ideal for trekking. You can also see traces of earliest known inhabitants of the region – the leaf clothed Paliyans.

Dolmen Circle (18 kilometres)

The Dolmen Circle is a place of great antiquity and great archaeological importance. Pre-historic remains, original burial urns and models of dolmens were unearthed in this region. These can be seen in Shenbaganur Museum.

Shenbaganur Museum (5.6 kilometres)

The Shenbaganur Museum founded in 1895 is maintained by the Sacred Heart College, a Theological Seminary. It contains a very good collection of archaeological remains and flora and fauna of the region.

A Spanish Father Ugarthe contributed his major collections to the Museum. This place also contains one of the biggest orchidariums in the country containing more than 300 species of orchids.

Other interesting spots

Among the other popular spots are Kurinji Andavar Temple – temple of Lord Murugan – the local ruling deity (3 kilometres); Dolphin’s nose – a flat projecting rock overlooking a deep yawning chasm (8 kilometres); Perumal Peak – 2440 metres high peak – a favourite of the trekkers (11 kilometres); Berijam Lake – a beautiful picnic spot (21 kilometres). There are a number of waterfalls.

Palani (62 kilometres)

One place I really love is the temple at Palani. This is one of the six abodes of Lord Subramanya or Kartick (brother of Ganesh). You can visit the temple while returning from Kodaikanal.

The temple is built atop a 140 metres high hill and can be reached either by using the steps or the recently opened electric ropeway.

During the festivals of Panguni Utthiram (March-April) and Adi Krithikai (July-August), Kavadi dancers flock to the temple in hundreds, often in a state of trance.

Conclusion

Kodaikanal, often called the Princess of Hill Stations, is a wonderful get-away from busy city life.

It is the trekker’s dream comes true. You can go off on your own exploration; walk through eucalyptus and blue gum forests; or join organized longer treks through a travel agent. You can do some fishing (but obtain a permit first), boating, horse riding and cycling.
There are large plantations where plums, pears, plantains and other fruits grow in abundance. The wooded slopes contain a wide variety of flowers, trees and plants.

Kodaikanal literally blooms up during the summer festival celebrations in May. There are different kinds of activities. A colourful annual boat pageant is also held.

Kodaikanal is the best of the three hill stations of Tamil Nadu – the other two being Ooty and Yercaud. Some visitors even consider Kodaikanal the best hill station in the country!

Most visitors come here to see the natural beauty of Kodaikanal. Spend a few days here. You will certainly return with a refreshed heart, mind and lungs.

Fact File

Nearest Airport Madurai 120 Kilometres
Nearest Railway Station Kodai Road 80 Kilometres
Distances by road (from Kodaikanal)
Chennai 520 Kilometres
Ooty 264 Kilometres
Trichy 197 Kilometres
Coimbatore 175 Kilometres
Madurai 120 Kilometres
You can view and download a map of Kodaikanal from the following sites:
http://www.mapsofindia.com/maps/tamilnadu/kodaikanal.htm
http://www.kodai.com/map2.htm

Where to stay

There are a plenty of hotels and resorts to suit all tastes and pockets. The Carlton is a five star hotel and therefore a little expensive. I am listing only a few of the better ones.

The Carlton
Lake Road, Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 240056 – 71

The Kodaikanal Club
7 Roads Junction,Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 241341

Kodai Resort Hotel
Coaker’s Walk, Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 240632, 240633

Hotel Kodai International
17/328, Lawsghat Road, Kodaikanal – 624 101. Phone: (04542) 240767

Hotel Tamil Nadu TTDC Ltd.
Fern Hill Road, Kodaikanal – 624 101.Phone: (04542) 241336/7

Hotel Hilltop Towers
Opp Kodai International School, Kodaikanal.

Misnamed the Poor Man’s Ooty

The coffee is not an indigenous plant. Where did it came from?

Coffee was introduced into Yercaud from Arabia in the 1920s by Mr. M. D. Cockburn, then Collector of Salem. Yercaud is a small hill station perched on the Shevaroy Hills in Salem District of Tamil Nadu.

Surrounded on all sides by hot plains, the Shevaroys are a range of hills on the Eastern Ghats which rise steeply to 1624 metres (5,410 feet). The entire range, encompassing 67 tribal villages, covers an area of 384 sq. km. The total population (according to 1991 census) is 36,863.

History

The original inhabitants of the Shevaroy Hills are the tribals living in the 67 tribal villages. They are known as “Malayalis”, which in Tamil means “Hill Tribes”. Very little is known about the history of the “Malayalis” – from where they came, why and when.

One popular legend is that in the late 1700s, led by one Shevarayan, a group of farmers, from the banks of the Cauvery River in the Krishnagiri-Dharmapuri area, fled to these hills to escape the ravages of Tipu Sultan’s invading armies and settled down on the Shevaroys. Thereafter, these hills came to be known as the Shevarayan Malai (“Malai” means Hill in Tamil). Later, Shevarayan Malai was anglicized to “Shevaroy Hills”.

So far the present Yercaud is concerned, it was discovered by Mr. M. D. Cockburn, then Collector of Salem. Cockburn visited Yercaud in 1820 A.D. and put up a small hut which is now known as Grange Estate.

During the revolt of 1857, the building was fortified into a castle like building and is an important landmark today.
The Ghat road to Yercaud was sanctioned and work started in the 1850s. But work was stopped in 1857 due to the Indian Mutiny. Work on the present Ghat road from Salem to Yercaud was started in 1900 and the road was opened for motor vehicles in 1903.

However, the first motor car was brought up much earlier in a packing crate, assembled and driven around the Loop Road. After completion of the Mettur Dam on the Cauvery River in 1929, electricity came to Yercaud in 1930 and supply was extended to other Tribal Villages after 1970.

Coffee

During 1820 to 1829, Mr. M. D. Cockburn, introduced coffee from Arabia and apples and other fruits from South Africa. From here, coffee spread to all over the Nilgiris.

Coffee grows well on slopes at altitudes between 900 metres (3,000 feet) and 1,500 metres (5,000 feet). The mild temperature between 13C (56 F) and 29 C (84F), moderate rainfall between 1,270 mm (50″) and 1,524 mm (60″) distributed evenly between the Southwest and Northeast Monsoons and the high elevation on the Shevaroy hills combine to provide ideal climatic conditions for the production of high grade Coffee.

We visited a small coffee estate adjoining Yercaud. The red coffee berries were beautiful to look at, but had no taste. One has to peel off the thick skin to get to the coffee beans. But the fresh beans are slimy. They have to be washed with water to get rid of the slime. I tasted the raw beans. They had no taste. They have to be dried and roasted to turn them into the coffee seeds we use for making coffee.

Yercaud Lake

The centre of attraction is the lake. Surrounded by gardens and trees, the lake has a lovely fountain, installed by Madras Aluminium Company Limited, throwing up spurts of water. But the unimaginative advertisement on the fountain really hurts the eyes. Why Madras Aluminium Company Limited could not put a more subtle, more befitting advertisement, I really do not understand!

You can do boating in 4-seater row boats, peddle boats, or in the newer swan shaped peddle boats.

Anna Park

This is a lovely garden near the Lake.

Governent Orchidarium (2 kilometres)

If you are fond of plants or nature, you should visit the Orchidarium.
The Loop Road
The 34 kms. long Loop Road was traced by an Englishman Mr. Surgeon in 1824. It starts and ends at the Lake, covering several tribal villages including Yercaud, Nagalur, Semmanatham, Vellakadi, and Manjakuttai. A drive on the Loop Road is most enjoyable.

Shevarayan Temple (7 kilometres)

The Shevarayan Perumal Temple is perched high up near the summit of the highest peak of the Shevaroys at 1,624 metres (5,410 feet). The view from outside the Temple is panoramic and all four sides of the Shevaroys Range are clearly visible

The Shevarayan Perumal Temple is located inside a natural stone cave. The presiding deity of the temple is Ramar (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu) with his consort Cauvery Amman.

On the Southern most edge of the North-South ridge is Cauvery Peak from where on a clear day, you get a magnificent view of the Mettur Dam and the Cauvery River, located some 50 km. away.

A Temple Festival is held in May every year. It is a very colourful event with the “Malayalis” from all the 67 villages of Shevaroys attending it.

Lady’s Seat (1.5 kilometres)

This point overlooks the winding Ghat road and provides a breathtaking view of the plains and the town of Salem. The view is spectacular at night with the twinking lights of Salem. You can have a panoramic view of the plains below through the telescope mounted at the Lady’s seat.

Gent’s Seat (1.5 kilometres)

This is another point just above Lady’s Seat overlooking the winding Ghat road.

Pagoda Point (5 kilometres)

Pagoda Point is another vantage view point.

Kiliyur Falls (7 kilometres)

This 1,000 metre (3,000 feet) high water fall is situated amidst picturesque surroundings, but you have to walk a few kilometres to reach it.

The Retreat (1.5 kilometres)

This institution was started in 1945 by the brothers of Don Bosco and serves as a Novitiate House where students of the religious order stay and study.

Educational Institutions (1 and 1.5 kilometres)

The Montfort School and the Sacred Heart Convent are the two famous educational institutions at Yercaud imparting education mainly to boys and girls respectively.

Montfort Anglo-Indian Higher Secondary School was founded in 1917 by Rev. Bro. Eugene of the Montfort Brothers of St. Gabriel congregation founded by Louis Marie Grignion de Montfort of Brittany, France. Louis Marie Grignikon de Montfort was canonized a Saint in 1947.
Originally started for the sons of Europeans in the military, civil, plantation and other services, the first Indian students were admitted in 1928.
Montfort has grown into a premier boarding school in the country with 850 students studying from Standard III to Standard XII and has the most state-of-the-art facilities in academics, sports and other extra -curricular activities. Girls are admitted to Standards XI and XII.

Sacred Heart Convent, Yercaud (SHY) was founded in 1894 by Sister Valdebert Kelly and Sister Gertrude Banz of the Sisters of Saint Joseph of Cluny founded by Sister Anne Marie Javouhey in France in 1812. Sister Anne Marie Javouhey was beatified in 1950.
In 1894, several residents of Yercaud were given lessons in English, French, Music, Painting, Singing and Embroidery. Soon an English-Medium School was opened and initially both boys and girls were admitted. Now, the school has grown to over 400 Girls from Standard I to Standard X and has become an exclusive girls school renowned for its academic excellence, all round development, extra and co-curricular activities. SHY celebrated its centenary in September 1994.

Accommodation

Accomodation is available from the Star class to affordable budget class.

Fact File

Climate

The climate is uniformly cool and pleasant throughtout the year. The temperatures range from a maximum of 30 degrees Celcius to a minimum of 13 degrees Celcius.

Clothing

Light cottons with a pullover or some other light woollen in winter.

Reaching there

Airport
The nearest airport is Tiruchirapalli 180 km. away.
Other airports are Coimbatore 195 km. and Bangalore 265 km. away.

Railway Station
The nearest railway station is Salem Junction – 38 km. away.
There are a number of trains passing through. Among the most convenient trains to and from Chennai are the overnight Yercaud Express and the daytime Kovai Express. There are also a number of trains from Cochin, Trivandrum, Mangalore and Bangalore.

Road
Salem 36 km. Chennai 355 km. Bangalore 265 km. Hogenakkal 145 km.
There are frequent buses from Salem. Bus services are available from Chennai and several other important points.

Conclusion

For no rhyme or reason, Yercaud is often called the poor man’s Ooty (Ooty or Ootachamand is the most popular hill station of Tamil Nadu). But it is as enchanting and picturesque as the other two hill stations of Tamil Nadu.

It is easily accessable – just a one our drive from Salem. And certainly is the cheapest hill station. But things are changing. More and more tourists are pouring in. Estate prices are rising.
On the Ghat road to Yercaud, you will see numerous Rhesus monkeys sitting on the roadsides waiting for tit bits. There are Coffee estates and plantations growing pepper, citrus fruits – mainly oranges, bananas, pears and jackfruit. There are plenty of Silver Oak and other trees. Once upon a time, there were Sandalwood trees, too.

Trekking, bird watching and sheer lazying around could be some of the most pleasurable ways to spend a vacation. You will come across numerous types of plants and flowers.

For a one day excursion, Hogennakkal (100 km. from Salem) is the place. Here, you can do boating in saucer shaped country boats and row right into waterfalls. But Hogennakal should be visited either on the way to Yercaud, or on the way back.
(1600 words) Binoy Gupta