Earliest Human Settlements in India

The Bhimbetka Caves, or Bhimbetka Rock Shelters, (also known as ‘Bhim Baithaka’ meaning Bhim’s seat), located at the southern edge of the Vindhyachal Hills, 45 km south of Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh, contain 15,000 year old Stone Age rock paintings – the earliest evidences of human life in India.The rock paintings, which are in remarkably good condition even today, take us on a journey into time and tell us about the lifestyle of our ancestors over a period spanning thousands of years.
Mythology

According to mythology, when the five Pandavas were banished from their kingdom, they came and stayed here in these caves. They even built a palace at Lakhajuhar made out of lac.
Bhima used the massive rocks for sitting. This is why the place is also called ‘Bhim Baithaka’.

Discovery

Based on information gathered from local adivasis (tribals), Bhimbetka was first mentioned in Indian archeological records in 1888 as a Buddhist site.
In 1957, Dr. V. S. Wakankar, an archaeologist from Vikram University, Ujjain stumbled upon these rock formations. They were similar to those he had seen in Spain and France.
Archaeological excavations over the next 16 years yielded more than 700 such shelters dating from the Lower Palaeolithic Age to the Early Medieval Age.
The site spread over 10 kms in length and about 3 kms in width has more than 700 rock shelters, of which more than 400 have paintings. But only about a dozen caves are open to tourists.


Rock Art and Paintings

Over thousands of years, the caves evolved into excellent rock-shelters – ideal sites for aboriginal settlements – highly secluded and safe atop the mountains.
The rock shelters and caves of Bhimbetka have a large number of interesting paintings which depict the lives and times of the people who lived in the caves, including depictions of animals, communal dancing and drinking, birth, death and religious rites.Archeological studies have revealed a continuous sequence of Stone Age cultures (from the Lower Palaeolithic to the Medieval), as well as the world’s oldest stone walls and floors.

A broad chronology of the finds has been done, but a detailed chronology is yet to be created.

The paintings have been done mainly in red and white with occasional use of green and yellow.
We get an insight of the life style during those days.The superimposition of paintings shows that the same canvas was used by different people at different periods of time.Archeologists have classified the drawings and paintings under five broad periods.

Period 1 – (Upper Paleolithic): These are linear representations, in green and dark red, of huge figures of animals, such as boar, bison, tigers, rhinoceroses and stick like humans.

Period II – (Mesolithic): These figures are comparatively smaller in size.
The stylised figures show linear decorations on the body.
In addition to animals, there are human figures and hunting scenes, giving a clear picture of the weapons used – barbed spears, pointed sticks, bows and arrows.
There are depictions of birds, animals, drinking, musical instruments, communal dances, pregnant women, mother and child, and men carrying dead.

Period III – (Chalcolithic): Similar to the paintings of Chalcolithic pottery, these paintings reveal that during the period, the cave dwellers of this area were in contact with the agricultural communities of the Malwa plains and exchanged goods with them.

Period IV – (Early Historic):
The figures of this group have a schematic and decorative style and are painted mainly in red, white and rarely green.
There is association of riders, depiction of religious symbols, Tunic-like dresses and scripts of different periods.

Period V – (Medieval): These paintings are geometric, linear and more schematic, but show degeneration and crudeness in their artistic style.
For the first time, we find paintings of the Brahmanical Hindu Gods like Ganesh and Natraja in these rock shelters.

The cave dwellers prepared the pigments they used by combining manganese, haematite, soft red stone, wood coal and plants. They made brushes out of pieces of fibrous plants.It is amazing that the paintings have not faded even after thousands of years.

What to see

The caves vary in sizes. 
Some are very small while some can accommodate 100 people. The cave formations are unique.
One cave resembles the shape of a tortoise and the entrance resembles the mouth of a snake.You must visit the Zoo Rock Cave, which is the most famous of the caves.
These rocks have painting as old as 10,000 B.C. depicting various animals like elephants, antelopes and horses.You must visit Barkhera (7 kms from Bhimbetka).
This is Richest Open Air Stone Age Site in South Asia.
You can see Thousands of Acheulian Tools Scattered in the dense teak forest.
How to Reach

Air

Bhopal (45 Kms from Bhimbetka) is the nearest airport having direct flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Indore and Gwalior.

Rail

Bhopal has a railway station with trains from Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai.

Road Bhimbetka is situated on the Bhopal-Hoshangabad National Highway No. 69.
It is well connected by good roads.

Best Season

July to March.

Recommendation

This is a must see place for everyone.
Nature has carefully preserved these clusters of natural rock shelters within massive outcrops of sandstone, above dense forests.
The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters are unique because the paintings and tools allow us to see the pattern of life over thousands of years.
They show the gradual transformation of man from a cave dweller to agriculturist and trader.
They also graphically depict the evolution of tools.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters bear a significant resemblance to similar rock art sites in other parts of the world –  Kakadu National Park in Australia, the cave paintings of the Bushmen in Kalahari Desert, and the Upper Paleolithic Lascaux cave paintings in France.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters were recognized as a World Heritage Site in 2002.

You can see more details and information at the following site:
http://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_rockart_bhimbetka.asp

The Golden City 

Where would you go if you wanted to see sand, desert and sand dunes in India?The best place is Jaisalmer – in the middle of Thar Desert in Rajasthan.JaisalmerThe small town of Jaisalmer, nicknamed “The Golden City” – because this is what the town looks like – stands on a ridge of yellow sandstone on top of the Trikuta Hill.
It is crowned by a fort, which contains the palace buildings and beautiful Jain temples. Even today, a fourth of the population live within the Fort.
Many of the houses and temples are beautifully sculpted. 

History

According to legend, Lord Krishna told Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav clan would build his kingdom on top of Trikuta Hill.

In keeping with this prophesy, Rawal Jaisal, a descendant of Yadav clan, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. 

Deoraj, a famous prince of the family known as ‘Bhati’ family, is considered to be real founder of the Jaisalmer dynasty. He adopted the title of Rawal. Rawal Jaisal, the sixth in succession from Deoraj, founded the fort and city of Jaisalmer in 1156, and moved over to Jaisalmer from the former capital at Lodhruva (situated about 15 kms to the south-east of Jaisalmer).
Jaisalmer, meaning “the Hill Fort of Jaisal”, was named after him.
 The first siege of Jaisalmer took place in 1294 during the reign of Alauddin Khilji.
Alauddin Khilji was angered by Bhatis’ raid on a caravan filled with treasure.
Alauddin Khilji’s army captured and sacked the fort and the city of Jaisalmer.
For quite some time, Jaisalmer lay deserted.We do not know what happened during the next decades.
Next, we find Rawal Sahal Singh, who acknowledged the supremacy
of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan.The major opponents of Jaisalmer rulers were the powerful rulers of Jodhpur and Bikaner.
They used to fight for the possession of forts, waterholes or cattle.Jaisalmer was strategically positioned as a halting point along a traditional trade route used by camel caravans commuting between Indian and Asian markets. The main source of income of Jaisalmer were the levies on the caravans.
However, the importance of Jaisalmer declined when Bombay emerged as a port, and sea trade replaced the traditional land routes.
The partition of India in 1947 led to the closing of all trade routes through the Indo-Pak border.  
But the skirmishes between India and Pakistan gave Jaisalmer a strategic importance and it became an army supply depot.
Later, the Rajasthan Canal revived the surrounding desert areas.
And the Government built roads and railways, knitting the remote Jaisalmer with the rest of Rajasthan.

What to seeJaisalmer Fort 

From its 250 feet high vantage point on the hill, the Fort stands vigil over the surrounding desert.
Its massive walls follow the contours of the hills.
The Fort has five interconnected palaces with intricate ‘jaali’ screens and beautiful ‘jharokhas’.
Steep cobblestone pathways passing through the four gates lead to the royal palace.
The sharp twists and turns make the fort invincible.

Jain Temples

Inside the fort, there are four Jain temples, dedicated to Rishabdevji Sambhavnathji and Parshvanathji. The Parshvanathji Temple is the oldest and the most beautiful of all.
Human and animal figures are carved on the walls of its sanctum.
The dome or ‘shikhar’ is  crowned by an amalak and a water pot containing a lotus flower.

Gyan Bhandar or Library 

The Jain temples have a library containing some of the oldest manuscripts of India. 

Gadsisar Lake

Excavated in 1367 by Rawal Gadsi Singh, the Gadsisar is a beautiful rainwater lake surrounded by small temples and shrines.This lake has a beautiful arched gateway.
Today, it is an ideal picnic and boating spot. 

Havelis

There are a number of beautiful Havelis in Jaisalmer.

Salim Singh-ki-Haveli – This was once the residence of the Mohta family, ministers of Jaisalmer rulers. 

Patwon-ki-Haveli – This five haveli wonder is the grandest mansion in Jaisalmer.
Its ceilings are supported by exquisitely carved pillars and the balconies are delicately chiselled.

Nathmalji-ki-Haveli –  This was carved by two brothers.
One worked from the right side and the other from the left.
But the entire construction is harmonious.

Places to see around Jaisalmer

Lodurva (16 kms)

The former capital of Jaisalmer rulers is an  important pilgrimage centre  for Jains.
An architectural masterpiece of Lodurava is the ‘Toran’ or ornate arch at the main entrance with its exquisite carvings.
‘Kalpatru’, or the divine tree, is another great attraction.

Sam Sand Dunes (42 kms)

The not to be missed thing to see in Jaisalmer are the sand dunes.
The shifting ripples on the sand dunes, caused by the wind, some as high as 150 feet, constantly create and recreate new designs.
They are the photographer’s delight.Various cultural programs are  organised against the backdrop of these fascinating dunes.
A lot of Hindi films are shot around the sand dunes.
If you are fond of adventure, you can go out on a camel safari – in the desert on camel back. 

Wood Fossil Park (17 kms)

This park, on the Barmer Road, takes  you back to the Jurassic period.
You can see 180 million year old fossilized trees. 

Desert National Park

This 3162 sq. kms. vast Biosphere Reserve lies to the south-west of Jaisalmer. 
This is one of the largest National Parks in India, but very different from the ones we are accustomed to. Here you can see sand dunes.
You can see the Indian Gazelle, Chinkara and a lot of birds.

You can see the rare and endangered Great Indian Bustard in relatively large numbers.
This bird migrates locally in different seasons.
There are a lot of other migratory and resident birds – eagles, harriers, falcons, buzzards, kestrel and vultures. Short-toed Eagles, Tawny Eagles, Spotted Eagles, Laggar Falcons and Kestrels.
You can see the Sand grouse near small ponds or lakes.The best time to visit the wild life is between November and January.However, the three day Desert Festival in February is unique.
You can see and hear folk dancers swing to the enchanting folk music under the full moon.
You can watch the unique turban tying contest and the Mr. Desert contest.

Reaching there

Air

The nearest airport is Jodhpur (285 kms).

Rail

Jaisalmer has a railway station and is connected with Jodhpur by night train.

Road

Jaisalmer is well connected by good roads with all the major cities of India.

Distances

Ahmedabad (626 kms)
Bikaner 325 km Pokaran (112 kms) 
Jaipur (558 kms)
Jodhpur (285 kms Via Pokaran) 
Mumbai (1177 kms)
New Delhi (864 kms)

Recommendation
 
Satyajit Ray, the famous Indian film director, wrote a detective novel based on this fort.
He later made it into the film – Sonar Kella (The Golden Fortress).
Jump to: navigation, search Every house in Jaisalmer is exquisitely carved, having filigree work all over.
Most of the houses date back to the 12th to 15th centuries.
And hence, Jaisalmer is also called ‘the Museum city’. Surrounded by desert, sand and sand dunes, Jaisalmer is truly a
different experience.

 Ladakh is unique.
It is unlike any other place in the world.
It really belongs to a bye gone era forgotten by time itself. Ladakh is the enigmatic land of sand and snow.
You can see snow covered mountains and sand dunes in the same place – at heights exceeding 11,500 feet (3,520 metres).
You can ride on long haired two humped camels or watch highly endangered birds and animals.
You can amble through ancient monasteries dramatically perched on high mountains and join the monks in their daily prayers or explore the mysterious corridors of old palaces.
You can indulge yourself in white water rafting or trek through the enchanting wilderness for a couple of days or more.  

Location                                                                                       

Ladakh is part of Jammu and Kashmir State in north India.
It consists of two districts – Leh and Kargil.
Leh district, with an area of 45,110 Sq kms, covers more than half the state and is the largest district in India.
Leh district comprises of Leh town, 112 inhabited villages and one un-inhabited village.
The total population of Leh district is a mere 1.17 lacs.
It is the least populated district in India.

Ladakh lies in the rain shadow of the Great Himalayas.
Therefore, it does not receive any rain during the monsoons and is extremely dry.
Even when you are asleep, the lips become parched and the throat begs for water.
But Ladakh receives heavy snowfall throughout the long winter months (November to late May).The region is watered by the Indus and Zanskar rivers.
The Indus originates in a spring called Singikahad near Mansarovar Lake on the northern side of the Himalayan range in Mount Kailash in Tibet and enters India near Leh.The Zanskar originates in the glaciers of the Zanskar range and merges with the Indus seventeen kms from Leh.
The landscape resembles that of neighbouring Tibet; and therefore, the area is also called “Little Tibet”.
The Buddhist people here show the same outward appearance as their Tibetan counterparts.
But the culture of the Ladhaki Buddhists is more similar to that of Bhutan.

Religion

81.18 % of the people are Buddhists. 15.32 % are Muslims.  2.99 % are Hindus.

Leh

Leh, the capital of Ladakh, is located at an altitude of 11,552 ft. (3,521 metres).
The sun is very bright, and it is pleasantly warm in the sun, but the temperature sharply drops at night, even in summer.
Leh is an archaic town, with a mosque and missionary schools.
You can see the Leh Palace from any place in the town.
If you are interested in exploring local life, walk through the narrow lanes behind the Mosque in the main market area.

History

Ladakh was an important Buddhist centre, in the 3rd century BC, much before the saint Padmasambhava converted Tibet to Buddhism.
But we do not know much about the early history of Ladakh.After the demise of the first Tibetan empire in 1020, Tibet was divided amongst the three princes.
One of them moved over to Ladakh and founded the first royal dynasty there.
They had their capital at Shey and built many forts.
In the following centuries, the Ladakhi kings extended their territory.
Lhachen Utpala (1080 to 1110) expanded his kingdom to the boundaries of the related dynasties of Purang and Mustang (in present-day Nepal).Lhachen Bhagan unified Ladakh in 1470 and founded a new dynasty, Namgyal.
In 1533, the Great King Soyang Namgyal united the whole region into one large kingdom and built his capital at Leh.
After him, Kings Sengge Namgyal (1570 to 1620) and Deldan Namgyal (1620-1660) extended their empire.
Even today, the descendents of the Namgyal dynasty are regarded as the rulers of Ladakh by the local people, and the Queen of Stok has been a member of the Indian Parliament.
The great fifth Dalai Lama of Tibet (Nawang Lobsang Gyatso 1617-82) convinced the Mongolians, whom he had converted to Lamaism, to wage war against West Tibet and Ladakh. The Ladhaki King Delegs Namgyal requested Ibrahim Khan, the Mughal governor of Kashmir, for help. The Governor sent troops and the Mongols were defeated.
But in return, Ladakh was forced to pay a regular tribute to the Mughals and had to allow construction of a mosque in Leh. In 1834, the Dogra power was at its peak in Jammu and Kashmir. They sent their General Zorawar Singh to capture Leh.
Thus, Ladakh and the adjoining Baltistan came under Dogra suzerainty.
You can see the remains of the small Zorawar Fort just outside Leh.
The royal family of Ladakh shifted to the palace at Stok, where they continue to live even today.
Jammu and Kashmir was created following the Treaty of Amritsar signed on March 16, 1846 between the British Government and Gulab Singh, the Dogra ruler. It included Ladakh and Baltistan.

But due to the partition of India, Baltistan became part of Pakistan, while Ladakh remained in India as part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir.

Travelling to Leh                                                                                         For the past three years, I had been planning to visit Leh.
But for one reason or another, the trip had to be postponed.
I finally made it in April 2008.We left Mumbai for Delhi by a night flight and reached Delhi airport around midnight.
Since the flight to Leh was scheduled to leave Delhi early next morning, we decided to spend the night in the airport.

The airport was under renovation. All the retiring rooms had been demolished.
Chairs were limited which left passengers clustering on the floors or sitting on their baggage trolleys.
Fortunately, there were several food counters offering a variety of eatables.We left Delhi early next morning.
The flight took us over the plains, then over brown and black hills.
Suddenly, the Himalayan range appeared in the distance.
The tops were covered with white snow. The aeroplane flew above and over the Himalayas at a height of 36,000 feet, far above the highest peaks.
We could see snow-capped peaks down below.
We could see large glaciers ending into trickling tongues of glistening water which joined each other  to form small and then large rivers.Suddenly, the aeroplane entered Leh aerospace.
We could see the small town surrounded by towering snow covered peaks.
Finally, we landed at Leh. There had been heavy snowfall the previous night.
All around was only snow, snow and more snow.
The temperature was around – 5 degree celsius.

Places to see

There are a number of interesting places and monasteries to see in and around Leh.
Some of the important places are:
Shey, Leh and Stok Palaces;
the monasteries of Shey, Hemis, Alchi, Thikse and Lamayuru;
Magnetic hill;
Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers;Changla Pass and the Khardungla Pass.

First Day

The altitude of Leh is about 11,500 feet. The oxygen content is quite low.
All tourists are advised to spend the first day in the hotel itself to get acclimatized to the high altitude.
We took breakfast and lunch in the hotel and spent the greater part of the day doing nothing.
In the evening, we leisurely walked around the market and explored the surroundings.
Too much exertion can induce mountain sickness.

Second and Third Day

You can see Leh and the nearby places.

Gompa Soma (Jokhang) (Gompa means Monastery)

The Ladakh Buddhist Association built this small Monastery in 1957 – opposite the State Bank of India, in the main bazaar or market place.
This Monastery contains a statue of Joyo Rinpochey (crowned Buddha).
Leh Palace                                                                   

The historic nine storeyed palace built by King Sengge Namgyal in 1533 is situated on a hill overlooking Leh and commands a grand view of the entire town.
The Leh Palace was built in the grand Tibetan style of architecture.
It inspired the design of the famous Potala of Lhasa, built half a century later.

You can climb up to the Leh Palace, constructed for the Ladakhi royal family before it was exiled to Stok in 1830 by the Dogra armies and explore the interiors.
Leh Palace is maintained by the Archaelogical Survey of India. There is a small entrance fee to enter the palace.
But when we reached there, there were no guards or watchman.
The small Archaelogical Survey office was locked. 
Se we entered the Palace and walked up and down several storeys.

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa

The Namgyal Tsemo Gompa of Ladakh was founded by King Tashi Namgyal Namgyal around the year 1430. It stands on a crag just behind Leh palace, providing a full view of the town of Leh. Namgyal Tsemo Gompa has a rich collection of ancient manuscripts and wall paintings.
It also houses statues of Avaloketesvara and Manjushri, approximately one storey high.
One of the most treasured possessions of the monastery is a three-storey high solid gold statue of Maitriya Buddha (future Buddha, also known as the laughing Buddha).Nearby, on Namgyal Tsemo, the peak overlooking the town, are the ruins of the fort built, by the King Tashi Namgyal.

Sankar Gompa (3 Kms from Leh)

Sankar Gompa is unique because it is one of the rare monasteries built in a valley (almost all monasteries are built on tops of hills).This monastery is a subsidiary of the Spituk Gompa and belongs to the Gelukpa or the Yellow Hat Sect.
The monastery also serves as the official residence of the Ladakh’s head of Gelukpa Sect, known as the Kushok Bakul. To the right of the front yard of the monastery is the Dukhang (assembly hall). Both sides of its entrance are adorned with paintings of the Guardian of the Four Directions. On the left wall of the entrance verandah is a “Wheel of Life”, held by Yama.As you enter the Dukhang, you come across some relatively new paintings of various Buddhas, along with guardian deities. There is also a throne inside the Dukhang, reserved for the head lama of the monastery.
On the right-hand side of the throne is an image of Avalokitesvara (Lord of All He Surveys) with 1000 arms and 11 heads.

Sankar Gompa has a complete set of Kandshur – 108 volumes of Buddha’s teachings.

Shanti Stupa (Japanese Peace Pagoda) (4 Kms from Leh)

Shanti Stupa, located on a hill outside Leh, was built by a Japanese religious organization headed by Head Monk Nakamura with help from the organization and from the local people.
It was inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1985. Architecturally, it has a distinct Japanese touch with small clean rooms on the side for meditation and the main Japanese shrine at the entrance.
You get a bird’s eye view of Leh town and the surrounding mountain peaks.

Hall of Fame (11 Kms from Leh)                     

The Hall of Fame – a glorious museum built by the military to display war memorabilia is worth visiting.
It will give you some idea of the extreme conditions in which our military live to defend the Indian borders.
It will also give you information about the brave soldiers who fought in the various wars in and around Ladakh, the weapons used and seized, and the equipments they use.

Spituk Monastery (18 Kms from Leh)

Spituk monastery is perched high on a hill top near the Indus river overlooking the Leh airport.
It was founded in 11th century.It is a Gelugpa or Yellow Hat monastery with about 125 monks.
The Gelugpas are the sect to which the Dalai Lama belongs.
The head lama is also the head of Shankar Gompa in Leh, and also represents Ladakh in the Indian Parliament.

Stok Palace and Gompa (15 kms to the south of Leh)

The four storeys high Stok Palace was the official residence of the royal family of Ladakh and was constructed in 1814 by Ladakh’s last ruler. The present successors of the king live here. Stok Monastery is a subsidiary of the Spituk Gompa and belongs to the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism.
As you enter the verandah of the monastery, you will come across bright friezes, depicting the Guardians of the Four Directions. The Dukhang of the monastery was repainted, not a long time back, and displays a rich collection of banners and thankas. There are two thrones inside the Dukhang. The central one has been reserved for the Dalai Lama, while the one on its right is for the head lama of Stok Monastery.One of the major attractions of the Stok Monastery is its library which has a complete set of the Kandshur, the 108 volumes of the Buddha’s teachings.

Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace                                

You can visit the lovely, two-story, golden-roofed summer palace of the Dalai Lama at Choklamsar, a village outside Leh.
You can also visit the school, clinic, and gift shop at the Tibetan Refugee Center. Fourth and Fifth DaysYou can visit the beautiful Pangong Lake (140 Kms from Leh) visiting Shey, Thiksey, Hemis, Chemrey  monasteries and Changla Pass on the way.
You should plan to make a night halt at Pangong Lake.

Shey Palace and Monastery (15 Kms from Leh)

Shey is the former palace of the kings of Ladakh.
It was built over 550 years ago by Lhachen Palgyigon, the first king of Ladakh.
The foundation of the monastery dates back to the earliest history of Ladakh, and there is an inscription on the rocks below the palace dating from the time Buddhism first arrived in the Himalayas.The monastery contains a 12 meters high golden Buddha statue with blue hair.
King Dalden Namgyal had the statue constructed in the 17th century.
You may watch the monks during their prayers.

Thiksey Monastery (20 Kms from Leh)

This is one of the most photographed monasteries in Ladakh.Built some 600 years ago, Thiksey monastery consists of 12 levels ascending a hillside, culminating in the lama’s private abode at the top.
About 100 monks of the yellow- hat sect of Buddhism live here.
After entering the main courtyard to the immediate right and up several steps is a new temple containing a large Buddha statue.
The H.H. Dalai Lama constructed this Buddha, 15 meters tall, in 1980 to commemorate a visit to Thiksey.
The statue was made under the guidance, supervision and direction of Kushok Nawang Chamba Stanzin, the present head Lama of Thiksey monastery.The statue is the largest Buddha figure in Ladakh which took four years to construct and is made of clay and covered with gold paint. The monastery houses the sacred Kangyur and Stangyur texts. Located directly above this temple is a small narrow room used as school room for the local boys. Here the Lamas instruct the children and some are later selected to become lamas.Traditionally, Ladakhi families donated one son to become lamas, although this practice is gradually disappearing.In a small room behind the main prayer room is large image of Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha) flanked by two smaller Bodhisattava images.
On the left is the eleven-headed Avalokitashwara, a form of the Buddha.
On the rooftop is Lamokhang temple where only men may enter.
On the top is Thiksey library, containing numerous volumes, including Kangyur and Stangyur.

Hemis Monastery (40 Kms south of Leh)

Hemis monastery is one of the most famous and largest of all monasteries in Ladakh,.
It was founded in 17th century by Stagsang Raschegn who was invited to Ladakh by King Singee Namgyal.
The king offered him religious estates and attended him as his principal guru.The monastery has well preserved Thankas and copper gilt statue of the lord Buddha, various stupas made of gold and silver and many auspicious objects.
Hempis also has the largest Thanka in Ladakh – over 12 mtrs. long. It belongs to the Drukpa order

Chemrey Monastery (40 Kms south of Leh)

This monastery situated on a rocky outcrop in the valley resembles a medieval European castle when viewed from the rear.
This monastery was also founded by Stagsang Raschegn, who founded Hemis Monastery.
Even today, Hemis and Chemrey monasteries have the same head lama.  

Changla Pass (17,350 feet)                                    

This is the third highest motorable pass in the world.              
You can expect to find a lot of ice and snow.
Wear woollens and a jacket if you plan to play in the ice.
We even built a Santa Claus and had tea with the military personnel there.

Pangong Lake (150 Kms south of Leh)

This beautiful lake is the most beautiful brackish water lake in the country.
It has become a favourite of Bollywood film makers.The international boundary between China and India passes through the 6 kms long and 130 kms wide Lake.
Nomadic people living in the tiny villages around Pangong Lake are mostly of Chang-Pa tribe of Tibet and southeast Ladakh.
It is possible to visit the Lake and return to Leh the same day, but I strongly recommend a night stay there.

Recommendation                                                           

This is only the first part. Read on……
Leh is a beautiful place. There is so much to see….
The hotel and taxi owners have effective associations which fix the rates they can charge.
No hotel or taxi can charge more than the prescribed amount.
The people are nice and simple.
The two rosy apples their cheeks really are, are enough to make any one happy. The simplest way to travel to Leh is to fly from Delhi to Leh.
There are three flights every day.Many tourists experience mountain sickness at Leh.
Starting from the previous night, take Diamox® (acetazolamide) 125 mg. tablets twice a day.
This will help you breath deeper and faster and help you get more oxygen.

You can see the status of the roads leading into Ladakh and the temperatures at Leh at the following site:
http://leh.nic.in

                        
My favourite spice is Kali Mirch.
I love to sprinkle a little powdered Kali Mirch on my buttered toast every morning.
And my wife uses it in a number of dishes.
You can see Kali Mirch plants in Spice Plantations, Coconut Plantations and Areca Nut Plantations throughout Kerala (South India), Karnataka and Goa.

The Name

The English name for Kali Mirch is Black Pepper.
The word Pepper is derived from the Sanskrit name Pippali or Pippalii.
This became Péperi in Greek and Piper in Latin.

What is Kali Mirch (Black Pepper)



Kali Mirch is produced from the green unripe berries of the pepper plant Piper nigrum, a flowering vine in the family Piperaceae.The unripe berries are cooked briefly in hot water, to clean them and to prepare them for drying.
The heat ruptures the cell walls in the fruit, speeding up the work of browning enzymes during drying.The berries are then dried in the sun for several days, or by machine, during which the fruit around the seed shrinks and darkens into a thin, wrinkled black layer.
The dried fruits are called black peppercorns. These are powdered to make the table pepper.

Green Pepper, White Pepper and Red Pepper

All these are made from the Kali Mirch plant.Green Pepper is the fresh unripe green berries.
You can chew them, cook them or pickle them. White Pepper consists of only the seed, with the fruit removed.
This is usually done by allowing fully ripe berries to soak in water for about a week, during which the flesh of the fruit softens and decomposes.
Rubbing then removes the flesh and skin, and the naked seed is dried. Pink Pepper or Red Pepper consists of ripe red pepper berries preserved in brine or vinegar.
The ripe red peppercorns can also be dried.

Pink Pepper

However, Pink Pepper comes from Piper nigrum, which is a plant from a different family.  

Cultivation

The Kali Mirch plant is a perennial vine growing up to four metres in height on supporting trees, poles, or trellises.
The Kali Mirch plant likes moist, well-drained soil, rich in organic matter.The leaves are alternate, five to ten centimetres long and three to six centimetres broad.
The flowers are small, growing on pendulous spikes four to eight centimetres long at the leaf nodes. The spikes lengthen to seven to 15 centimeters as the fruits mature.The plants are easily propagated by 40 to 50 centimetres long cuttings, tied up to neighbouring trees or climbing frames.
The plant prefers trees with rough barks. The plants start bearing fruit from the fourth or fifth year, and continue to bear fruit for seven years.A single stem will bear 20 to 30 fruiting spikes. Harvesting is done when one or two berries at the base of the spikes begin to turn red.

Culinary Uses

The spiciness of Kali Mirch is due to the chemical piperine.
Dried ground pepper is one of the most commonly used spices in Eastern and European cuisine .

Medicinal Uses

Kali Mirch is widely used as medicine in Ayurveda, Siddha and Unani medicines for such illnesses as constipation, diarrhea, ear ache, gangrene, heart diseases, hernia, hoarseness, indigestion, insect bites, insomnia, joint pains, liver problems, lung diseases, oral abscesses, sunburn, tooth decay and toothaches.Kali Mirch is believed to cause sneezing.
Some people believe that the sneezing is due to irritation of the nostrils caused by piperine.
Others believe that the sneezing is simply due to the fine dust in ground pepper. 

Recommendation

Remember that in the west, Kali Mirch is often confused with long pepper Piper longum – but the two are different. Remember also that surprisingly, Kali Mirch and other spices of India have changed the course of world history.  The Europeans came to India and the Americas in search of the spices.Remember also, especially if you are a connoisseur of food, that once Kali Mirch is ground, it loses its aromatics pungency quite fast. Use hand held pepper mills (or ‘pepper grinders’), which mechanically grind or crush whole peppercorns, instead of pre-ground pepper.  

Shakti Peeth  of  Mahalakshmi and  
the Gateway to Karnataka and Goa       
                                   

Kolhapur is famous for its Mahalakshmi Temple which devout Hindus believe will fulfill all their wishes.
There are plenty of places to see around. And, you can stay in a real lake side palace without making a big hole in your pocket.

Kolhapur

Kolhapur is an ancient city, to the extreme south of Maharashtra, famous for its really spicy food which will make your mouth burn; headwear, footwear, jewellery; religious connections; its association with wrestling and with the film industry.

Kolhapur is the historical capital of the Marathi film industry.
Some legendary film personalities, like V. Shantaram, started their career here.
Raja Harishchandra, the first feature film produced in India in 1913, was conceptualized here.
Kolhapur still hosts several film festivals and provides good location for shooting.
Famous wrestlers are groomed and trained here.
Some of the Maharajahs of Kolhapur have been very good wrestlers.

Kolhapur is also the entrance to Karnataka and Goa.

Mythology

According to mythology, when Goddess Mahalakshmi killed Kolhasur, a demon who was troubling the local people, Kolhasur expressed the desire that the city be named after him.
Mahalakshmi fulfilled his last wish, and named the city after him.

History of Kolhapur

The states of Satara and Kolhapur came into existence in 1707, because of the succession dispute over the Maratha kingship.
Shahu Sambhaji, heir to the Maratha kingdom, captured by the Mughals at the age of nine, was their prisoner at the time of the death of his father Sambhaji (the elder son of Shivaji Maharaj – founder of the Maratha Empire) in 1700.
Maharani Tara Bai proclaimed his cousin Rajaram, as the king under her regency.
In 1707, the Mughals set Shahu Sambhaji free under certain conditions and he returned to claim his inheritance.
He defeated the regent at the Battle of Khed and established himself at Satara, forcing Maharani Tara Bai and her son to retire to Kolhapur.

The British sent expeditions against Kolhapur in 1765 and 1792.
After the collapse of the Maratha confederacy in 1812, Kolhapur entered into treaty with the British.
In the early years of the 19th century, the British again invaded Kolhapur, and for some time even appointed a political officer to temporarily manage the state.
The last ruler of Kolhapur was HH Maharaja Chhatrapati Shahaji II Puar.

Kolhapur was one of the four Marattha States of British India – the other three being Baroda, Gwalior and Indore.

After India attained independence in 1947, Kolhapur ceded to the Dominion of India on 14 August 1947 and merged with Bombay state on 1 March 1949.

The boundaries of the present Kolhapur district approximately correspond with those of former Kolhapur kingdom.

Places to see in and around Kolhapur                                                                                                       
Mahalakshmi Temple                                                                      

This is the must see place.
The puranas have listed 108 sites where Shakti (the goddess of power) is manifest.
Of these, 6 are Shakti Peethas – abode of Shakti, where one can achieve fulfillment of all desires as well as salvation.
Of these six, the Karveer area (the area where Kolhapur is located), is most important.
It is believed that Mahalakshmi and Vishnu reside in this area.
Because of its special significance, Kolhapur is also known as “Dakshin Kashi”.

The temple, built around 700 A.D. during the Chalukyan rule, is mounted on a stone platform.
The image of Mahalakshmi is made of gemstone and weighs about 40 kilograms.

She has four arms and wears a crown.
The crown has an image of Shesh Nag – the serpent of Vishnu.
A stone lion, the vahana of Mahalakshmi, stands behind the statue.

In most Hindu temples, the images face north or east.
But in Kolhapur, Mahalakshmi faces the west (Pashchim).

There are beautiful statues all around the temple.

Jotiba Temple

The Jotiba Temple is situated to the north of Kolhapur deep in the forests, surrounded by mountains and dangerous precipices.
According to mythology, Jotiba helped Mahalakshmi in her fight with the demons.

The original temple was built in 1730 by Navajisaya.
This temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas and is also called Kedarnath of the South.

The Maharaja’s Palace                                                                                            

The present Maharaja’s family lives on the first floor of this magnificent Palace.
This palace, designed by Charles Mant, a British architect, was completed in 1881.
It is a mix of a Victorian railway station and the Addams Family mansion.

The ground floor has been converted into the Shahaji Chhatrapati Museum which contains a large number of memoralia worth seeing – animal trophies, weapons, paintings, etc.

 There is also a small menagerie.                             

Town Hall

The town hall, built by Mant between 1872-76, is a small museum containing pottery and bronze artefacts unearthed during archaeological excavations on nearby Brahmapuri Hill. One of the interesting exhibits is a small bronze statue of the Greek God Poseidon holding a Siva- like trident.

Panhala Hill Station

Panhala is a little visited hill station 18 km northwest of Kolhapur.
The formidable fort on the hilltop has a long and interesting history.

You can also visit the nearby Pawala Caves and a couple of Buddhist cave temples.

Reaching there

Air
Air Deccan has daily flights from Mumbai and Bangalore.

Train
Kolhapur is well connected to Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore and Miraj by rail.

Road (Distances)
Kolhapur to Mumbai – 396 kms.
Kolhapur to Pune – 240 kms.
Kolhapur to Bangalore – 600 kms.
Kolhapur lies on National Highway 4 (NH4) which connects Mumbai to Bangalore.
Mumbai to Kolhapur is about 7 hours drive by road.
The road is very good.

Recommendation

Kolhapur is a nice, cozy place.
Surprisingly, it has one of the highest per capita income in India.
And a large contingent of Mercedes cars.

You can visit the sacred ghats on the Panchganga River or the Lake Rankala, five kms from the railway station.

If you wish to stay in a real palace at an affordable rate, stay at Hotel Shalini Palace, the Maharaja’s old summer palace, by Lake Rankala.
You will never forget your stay.

You can visit Goa and several other places.

Unique Temple of the Formless Shiva

I have visited Chidambaram several times for three reasons.
· To meander through the Mangrove Forests of Pichavaram to the beach beyond.
· To visit, attend or give lectures at the Annamalai University.
· And to visit the Chidambaram Temple.

Meaning of the word Chidambaram

The word Chidambaram is derived from the two words ‘Chit’ meaning ‘consciousness’ and ‘ambaram’ meaning ‘sky’ (akaas) and signifies the sky of consciousness, which is the ultimate state one should attempt to attain.According to another version, the word Chidambaram is derived from Chitrambalam which is derived from two words ‘Chit’ and ‘ambalam’ meaning Stage for performing arts.

The Deity

Chidambaram Temple is unique because the main deity which is worshipped there is the Akash Linga or the formless form of Lord Shiva. Here, Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of ether (one of the five forms of matter) which has no form.As you can see on the left side of the photograph, there is no deity at all.The wall is covered with leaves of gold foil strung on strings. (Of course, there are a lot of other deities).

The Chidambaram Temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of Nataraja – the Cosmic Dancer.The beautiful image of Nataraja is extremely popular amongst artists.

History

We do not know much about the past of Chidambaram.But worship in this temple has continued uninterrupted since time immemorial.The Temple was definitely in existence in the 6th century A.D.Successive generations of the Chola, the Pallava and the Vijayanagar kings patronised the temple.The Chola King Aditya 1 started guilding a portion of the roof of the temple with gold.But the work was completed by his son.Mythology

A group of ‘rishis’ (saints) lived in the Thillai forests. They believed in magic and believed that even God could be controlled by rituals and ‘mantras’ or magical words.

Once, Lord Shiva was strolling through the Thillai forests in the form of ‘Pitchandanar’, a nude mendicant asking for alms.He had extraordinary beauty and radiance.He was followed by his consort. The wives of the rishis were enamoured by the handsome mendicant and his consort.

On seeing this, the rishis became angry and sent scores of serpents by performing magical rituals. Lord Shiva lifted the serpents and donned them as ornaments on his matted locks, neck and waist.

The enraged rishis sent a fierce tiger. Lord Shiva skinned it and tied its skin around his waist like a piece of garment. Still more infuriated, the rishis sent a powerful demon ‘Muyalakan’. Lord Shiva stepped on the demon’s back, immobilized him and performed the Ánanda thaandava (the dance of bliss or happiness).Then he discloses his true form. Only then, the rishis realized that Lord Shiva was beyond magic and rituals and surrendered to him.Govindaraja Shrine

The Chidambaram Temple complex also has a shrine of Govindarajaperumal (form of Lord Vishnu) and his consort Pundareegavalli Thaayar (form of Laxmi). It is rare to have shrines of both Shiva and Vishnu in the same temple.

Temple car

The Chidambaram Temple car is one of the most beautiful of temple cars in Tamil Nadu. This car is used to carry the statue of Lord Nataraja around the town twice a year.

The Gopurams

The temple has 9 gateways.Four of these have towering ‘gopurams’ or pagodas each with 7 levels in the East, South, West and North. The eastern gopuram has sculptures depicting all the 108 postures (karnams) of Bharat Natyam – an Indian form of dance.

Reaching there

Chidambaram is 240 km south of Chennai and about an hour’s drive from Pondicherry.There are plenty of trains from Chennai.The road is also very good.
The coast is about 11 kms from Chidambaram.

Recommendation

The temple complex spreading over 40 acres is full of exquisite statues.There is the Shivganga, the traditional tank.Chidambaram is also worshipped as the temple of Nataraj – the Cosmic Dancer.There is an annual dance festival.The top most Indian dancers deem it a privilege and honour to perform here.

Nataraj, the image of the Lord Shiva in the dancing pose has been copied all over the world.

All the major temples in Tamil Nadu are administered by the Government. Chidambaram is the sole exception.The huge temple complex looks like an undefeatable fort and has been used as such.

You can visit the Annamalai University, which pioneered the concept of distance education in India.
You can also visit the Pichavaram Mangrove Forests.

The western most of Adi Shankaracharya’s Four Dhams

Plato first mentioned ‘Atlantis’ in his dialogues Timaeus and Critias writtenin 360 B.C.
For unknown reasons, Plato never completed Critias.
According to Plato, “Atlantis, lying “beyond the pillars of Heracles”, was a naval power that conquered many parts of Western Europe and Africa 9,000 years before the time of Solon, or approximately 9,500 B.C.
After a failed attempt to invade Athens, Atlantis sank into the ocean “in a single day and night of misfortune”.Scientists and researchers agree that there was no such island as Atlantis.
Atlantis was a piece of sheer imagination.
But the ancient Dwarka has far too many similarities to the imaginary Atlantis.
This cannot be pure coincidence.Dwarka is about 4000 years old.
Plato wrote about Atlantis only around 360 B.C., that is, much later.
I think the only plausible explanation for the striking similarities is that Plato heard about Dwarka and based his imaginary Atlantis on Dwarka.

Dwarka

The present day Dwarka is a city in Gujarat state in Western India.
The name Dwarka has come from the Sanskrit word “Dwar” meaning door.
Once upon a time, if you were coming from the West, Dwarka was the gate way to India.
Today, Hindus regard it as a gateway to Heaven.The legendary city of Dwarka was the dwelling place of Lord Krishna.
It is believed that due to damage and destruction by the sea, Dwarka submerged under the sea six times; and the modern day Dwarka is the seventh city to be built in the area. The Dwarkadhish Temple

The word Dwarkadhish comes from Dwarka and Dhish meaning Lord of Dwarka.
The temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna.
The city is believed to have been built by Vishwakarma, the celestial architect.
And the ancient temple was built by Sambha, the grandson of Lord Krishna.The present temple built around the 16th century has a five storey tower.
It is made of limestone and sand.
The structure of the temple is quite complicated.
A 24 metres (84 ft.) long, multicolored flag, decorated with the symbols of the sun and moon, is hoisted on the temple tower every day.
It majestically flitters in the air welcoming the pilgrims. The temple has two gateways:
· Swarg Dwar (Door to Heaven), through which pilgrims enter, and
· Moksha Dwar (Door to Salvation), through which the pilgrims exit.
From the temple, one can see the sangam (confluence) of Gomati River and the Arabian Sea.

You will be surprised there is a mini Tibet in a remote part of India. Read about it.

Mini Tibet of India

Ever heard of the Mini Tibet of India?
No. I am not talking about Dharamshala, the head quarters of His Highness, the Hon’ble Dalai Lama, the political and spritual leader of the Tibetans. I am talking about Mundgod.

Mundgod was a non descript panchayat town in the State of Karnataka in India. Today, is the repository of Tibetan life and culture. It showcases the life style and ambitions of the Tibetan refugees and reflects the gradual transformation of a traditional society into modernity. It has rightfully earned the name ‘Mini Tibet’.

Background

In 1949, the Chinese army marched into Tibet’s eastern provinces of Do-med and Do-tod. In the coming years, under various names and pretexts, the Chinese invaded and took over Tibet.
After his Palace was attacked, the Dalai Lama left Lhasa on 17 March 1959 and traveled incognito on foot with a 37 member entourage. After a hazardous 13 day difficult trek that involved eluding Chinese troops, crossing the Himalayas, crossing the Kyichu and Tsangpo rivers and making their way through Lhoka area, Yarlung Valley and Tsona Dzong and fording a 500 meter wide stretch of the Brahmaputra river, the entourage entered India through the Khenzimana Pass on 30 March, 1959 and took shelter in the picturesque Tawang Ganzen Namgyet Lhacheh Monastery in Arunachal Pradesh.

On 29 April, 1959, the Dalai Lama set up the Central Tibetan Administration (CTA), the Tibetan Government in Exile, in Mussoorie. In May 1960, the Dalai Lama and the CTA moved over to Dharamshala.

In the early 1960s, the Central Tibetan Administration requested the Government of India to help them set up settlements for Tibetan refugees. The Government of India gave the CTA several areas of land to enable the Tibetan refugees to settle down together and retain their culture and traditional way of life.

The Government of Karnataka gave 4,000 acres (16 square kilometres) of mostly forested land in Mundgod, near Hubli. (There are four other Tibetan settlements in Karnataka). The Tibetans set up the Doeguling Tibetan Settlement in Mundgod in 1966. Today, it is the largest concentration of Tibetan refugees in the world, exceeding seventeen thousand persons.

Population and number of villages in the settlement

Initial population of the Doeguling Tibetan Settlement 4,302
Population according to 2001 census 16,171
Total Tibetan refugees in India 85,000
Every settlement has a representative who is the overall head of the settlement. The Doeguling Tibetan Settlement in Mundgod comprises of 11 villages, of which 2 villages, Drepung and Ganden, are exclusively for monasteries.
These 11 villages are scattered over different locations. The distance between one village and another on an average is 4 – 6 Kms. Each village has its own elected leader who takes all major decisions relating to his village.

Monasteries

The Doeguling Tibetan Settlement has a total of 7 monasteries:

1. Ganden Jangtse
2. Ganden Shartse
3. Nyingma
4. Drepung Loseling
5. Drepung Gomang
6. Ratoe
7. Kargue Monastry

Mundgod is an excellent centre of monastic education. The Doeguling Monastic University, a replica of Tibet’s reputed 500-year-old Doeguling Monastic University, which was destroyed by the Chinese in 1959, has 4000 student monks from many countries undergoing a rigorous Mahayana-Buddhist theological education and pursuing a simple monistic lifestyle. The total number of monks in the settlement is more than 8,000.
There is a high school. Many schools for lower classes. A good modern hospital. A Tibetan Medical and Astro institute. Old homes. Several co-operative societies.
Though limited in number, the Government of India has reserved a few seats in medical and engineering colleges for the Tibetan refugees.

Dalai Lama’s visit to Mundgod

The Dalai Lama visited Mundgod in January 1995 and gave discourses on the Kalachakra.
He will visit Mundgod again next year (January 2008) to inaugurate the new hall of the Drepung monastery – the biggest monastic building with the largest prayer hall.

Travel Guide

Hubli, the nearest town, is about 47 Km from Mundgod. There are all kinds of hotels in Hubli – from the budget class to the three star.

Nearest railway station
Hubli 47 Km

Nearest Air ports
Hubli 47 Km
Goa 300 Km
Bangalore 400 Km

Road
Hubli to Mundgod 47 Km

There are excellent road and train services connecting Hubli to Goa, Bangalore, and to all other parts of India.

Climate

Mundgod is approximately 1800 ft. above sea level and the temperature ranges between 78 to 90 degree Fahrenheit. The average annual rainfall is 42” to 45”.

Conclusion

Visit the Doeguling Tibetan Settlement in Mundgod – the beautiful Mini Tibet in the heart of India. Walk through the lanes and streets. Stroll through the beautiful monasteries. You will see beautiful statues of the Buddha and Tibetan deities. You will see incense sticks and the huge colourful chanting drums.

You will see Tibetans dressed in their traditional attire waiting for a taxi or engaged in their daily chores. Talk to the Tibetans. Watch the children study and play. Observe the monks engaged in worship and study.

One thing will not fail to impress you. The Tibetans are hard working, happy and ever cheerful. But like the youngsters in other developing countries, the youngsters here, too, are restless. They want to quit their simple traditional life styles and adopt modern ways of living.

They want to study, get higher education and move over to the bigger cities and even to the Western world.

Visit Mundgod. You will feel as if you are visiting Tibet.

For any help or assistance, you can contact:
Representative, Doeguling Tibetan Settlement P.O. Tibetan Colony, Mundgod Distt. North Kanara Karnataka State – 571457 India Telephone: 08301-45732Fax: 08301-45877

You will find a lot of information on Tibet, His Highness the Dalai Lama, the Mundgod Settlement and on other settlements on the official Web site of the Central Tibetan Administration:
http://www.tibet.net/