the most popular week end get away
for Kolkatians (Calcuttans)

Digha (originally known as Beerkul) is the most popular beach, and weekend get away, for the people of West Bengal in general, and Kolkata in particular.

In 1780, in one of his letters to his wife, Warren Hasting wrote about Digha as the “Brighton of the East”.In 1923, John Frank Smith, an English tourist was so enamoured by the beauty of Digha that he started living there. His writings about Digha brought the place into prominence.
 After independence, John Frank Smith convinced Dr. Bidhan Chandra Roy, then Chief Minister of West Bengal, to develop Digha as a beach resort.

Digha has beautiful, firm, sandy beaches  –  so firm that you can drive cars and land small planes on them.

I used to visit Digha quite often to collect sea anemones, star fishes, small fishes and other small creatures for my marine aquariums. I also used to bring in sea water for these aquariums. Once, I got a large eel.

The water is shallow up to considerable distances. I used to walk into the sea for almost a kilometre. But believe me, this was fool hardy and certainly not safe.
You should never go out too far from the shore.

Activities  You can play around in the sand and sea and pamper your stomach with local
Bengali cuisine.
The fried fish on the sea front is certainly worth trying.

You can shop for ornaments and curios, hand-woven mats made of weeds,
and purchase cashew nuts.

Other places to see

• New Digha (2 kms) is practically an extension of Digha.
  (On the way to New Digha, you can view marine life at the aquarium, or visit the Science Centre for some scientific facts.)
• Shiva Temple at Chandaneshwar (8 kms).
• Talasari, another lovely beach (3 kms).
• Shankarpur, an untouched beach, often called the twin of Digha (14 kms).
  Shankarpur is also an important fishing harbour.
• Junput, another beautiful beach (40 kms).
  This beach is great for fishing and sun bathing.
  The State Government Fisheries Department, conducts fish cultivation and research here.
• Mandarmani (14 kms), a small virgin beach with also a small fishing harbour, is a fast developing tourist resort.

Reaching there

Digha is 187 kms from Kolkata,
You can go by car, taxi or public transport.The Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC) is offering great all inclusive packages from Kolkata to Digha.

Recommendation

Digha has suffered severe soil erosion. Much of its old time glory has passed over to New Digha which is almost like an extension of Digha.

The beach is lined with Casuarina trees.
The sea is calm and safe for swimming.
You can see both the sunrise and sunset at Digha.

There are plenty of hotels of all kinds  at cheap rates.

Tourism Information
 

You can get tourist information from
West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.
New Secretariat Building (West Block) Ground FloorKolkata – 700 001 Phone; 91 33 – 2248 7302/8256/8242, 2210 3194 

the largest mass nesting site of
Olive Ridley turtle
in the world

Gahirmatha Marine Sanctuary is the only marine sanctuary in Orissa (Eastern India).
This Sanctuary is extremely important because it is the largest mass nesting site of the Olive Ridley sea turtles (Lepidochelys olivacea) in the world. There are only four mass nesting sites of the Olive Ridley turtles in the world.
Of these four, the ‘Playa Ostional’ is in Ostional village in Costa Rica.
The other three are in Orissa.

The three mass nesting sites of the Olive Ridley turtles in Orissa are:        ·         Nasi Islands of the Gahirmatha beach near the mouth of rivers Brahmini and Baitarani.
      ·         Devi river mouth in Puri district (100 kms south of Gahirmatha), and the 
      ·         Rushikulya river mouth (320 kms south of Gahirmatha).

The estimate of the numbers of Olive Ridley turtles who come to the three nesting sites in Orissa vary according to different estimators.
They may exceed 1 million.
On an average, around 15,000 Olive Ridley turtles get killed every year – largely due to drowning, after getting entangled in the fishing nets.

Gahirmatha Turtle Sanctuary

The most important nesting site in Orissa is Gahirmatha.
The 35 kms coast of Gahirmatha (in Kendrapara District of Orissa), covering an area of 1435 sq kms, was declared a Turtle Sanctuary in 1979.On an average, 700,000 turtles lay 120 eggs each on the beach here every year.
The total is a cool 84 million eggs.
The eggs hatch in 45 – 70 days depending on the weather and temperature conditions.

The hatchlings emerge and make a frantic run to the sea, chased by predators such as crabs, vultures, and seabirds.
Even after they reach the sea, they are in danger from such predators as sharks, fishes and crocodiles.
Some years, there are no nestings at all.
We do not know why mass nesting does not take place in some years.

Olive Ridley Turtle
The Olive Ridley turtle, named after H.N. Ridley FRS, who first reported sighting of Olive Ridleys in Brazil in 1887, and because of their overall olive green colour, is the smallest of the marine turtle species in the world.They grow to a length of 70 cms. The adults weigh about 45 kgs.
The carapace is tear-drop shaped.
They are omnivorous and feed on crustaceans and molluscs.

They can dive to great depths and may be bottom feeders.
They are highly migratory, travelling thousands of kilometers between foraging and nesting grounds.

The most fascinating feature of Olive Ridley turtle is their mass nesting called ‘arribada’ – a Spanish word meaning mass arrival.

It is believed that they nest at intervals of one to four years.
In India, the nesting season is between November to March.
Olive Ridleys nest sporadically in other coastal places of India, such as,.Jamnagar, Bhavnagar, Gorai, Kihim, Manowrie, Versova, between Ambolgad and Vetye, Morjim and Galgibag; Kozhikode district (Calicut) in and some places  in Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and in the Sundarbans.

According to the IUCN, the status of the Olive Ridley turtle is ‘Critically endangered’.

Incredible Mass Nesting

The mass nesting or arribada is an unforgettable sight.
On a clear moonlit night, during the nesting season, you can see thousands of turtles crawling out of the sea, puffing and laboring as they drag themselves on the beach, select a suitable site, dig a hole in the sand with their hind flippers, lay nearly 120 eggs each, cover and compact the holes with their own body, sweep out all traces of their visit and crawl back to the sea – all within 45 minutes.
This indeed is one of Nature’s miracles!

Nesting Sites in Danger
Gahirmatha has come into the news recently due to construction of the Dhamra Port in the area.
The Port is being built by the Dhamra Port Company Ltd (DAPCL) – a joint venture of Tata Steel and Larsen and Toubro.The port is less than 15 kms from the turtle nesting beaches at Gahirmatha Turtle Sanctuary and less than 5 kms from the Bhitarkanika Sanctuary, India’s second largest mangrove forest.

25 percent of the Port work is already over (May 2008).
The first phase of the project, worth about Rs.24.63 billion, will become fully operational by April 2010. National and international environmental activist group raised objections.
The work was stopped for a short spell.
But the concerned Government agencies, including the National Environment Appellate Authority, have given clearance and construction work has again begun.These agencies are of the view that the northern stretch of the Dhamra river is muddy and silty and therefore unsuitable for turtle nesting.
The Wildlife Institute of India has also opined that the marine turtles nest south of the river and do not come to the beaches on the north.

Role of IUCN

DAPL had invited the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) to identify areas with potential to adversely affect the turtle habitat and precautionary measures that can be implemented to nullify the possible negative impact.

The IUCN made certain suggestions. One of the measures involves using turtle excluder devices (TEDs) in the fishing nets and trawlers.
Bittu Sehgal, editor of Sanctuary magazine, is of the view that construction of the port “would disrupt the food chain cycle in the entire marine system”. According to him, the damage by the port would be irreversible. “Olive Ridley turtles feed on invertebrates and play an important role in open ocean and coastal ecosystems. …The effect will be visible after five years but who will answer then? ”

Bhitarakanika Wildlife Sanctuary and National Park

Close to Gahirmatha Turtle Sanctuary is the lovely Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary and National Park.
The Bhitarkanika area was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1975.

This is the second largest Mangrove ecosystem in India and is known for its crocodiles, water monitors, creeks and canals and kingfishers.
There are also white crocodiles.
There are herds of deer on the banks.  There are also a large variety of migratory and resident birds. 

Cause for concern

A number of national and international environmental groups have expressed concern that the port, in proximity to the two Protected Areas, poses an unacceptable environmental risk. Greenpeace has released a critique that exposes serious and fundamental flaws in the Environment Impact Assessment (EIA) conducted for TATA’s Dhamra port project in Bhadrak district, Orissa.According to the environmentalists, the risk is not limited to the nesting sites alone.
The turtles live in the off shore waters for about six months a year.
The port site is a breeding ground for horse-shoe crabs, as well as rare species of reptiles and amphibians including the amphibian Fejervarya cancrivora.

Recommendation

The presence of the turtles actually helps the fishermen and results in higher fish productivity. There is higher abundance of fish –  leading to higher catches.The reason is the preference of turtles to feed on jelly fishes which otherwise would have eaten the fishlets,

The law in Orissa requires that the trawlers should be fitted with turtle excluder devices (TEDs). But the fishermen are averse to this device. They feel that this will greatly reduce their catch.
The environmentalists, several NGOs and students are doing a good job educating the public and protecting the turtle hatchlings.

Visit the incredible mass nesting, if possible.
Local tour operators will organise a visit to the nesting sites.Other wise, you can visit the mangrove forests and the area any time of the year except during the monsoons (rainy season). 
 

the land of the Golden Haapus                
or Alphonso Mangoes
                              
Ratnagiri is a small idyllic coastal town – 330 kilometres south of Mumbai.
It is famous for golden Haapus or Alfonso mangoes and for the horse shoe shaped fort.

Haapus or Alphonso Mangoes

Haapus is grown mainly in western India in and around Ratnagiri.
In terms of sweetness, flavour and rosy colour, Haapus mangoes are considered to be the best Indian mangoes.
And they are certainly the costliest mangoes.
Unfortunately, Haapus have a very short shelf life.Haapus and other mangos are also used to make sweets, candies, milkshake, lassi, jelly, jam and a variety of non aerated mango drinks.

Origin of the name Alphonso

The species has been named Alfonso after Dom Afonso de Albuquerque, a Portugese Navy Commander, who established the Portuguese colonial empire in the Indian Ocean. He used to carry Haapus mangoes from Goa to Portugal.
The people in the U.S. could not taste Indian Mangoes for 18 long years because U.S. had banned their import. The ban was lifted in April 2007.
Japan had imposed similar ban in 1986. This was lifted after 20 years – in 2006.

Mythology

According to mythology, after performing their pilgrimage on the 13th year, the Pandavas settled down near Ratnagiri.
When the Pandavas left the place for the Kurukshetra war, King Veeravat Ray of this region also accompanied them.

What to see

Ratnagiri Fort (also called Ratna Durg or Bhagwati Durg)

This historical fort was built by the Bahamani rulers between 1350 AD and 1500 AD.
In 1670, Shivaji conquered the fort from Bijapur ruler Adil Shah.
In 1731, the fort came under the control of Satara kings.
In 1818, it was surrendered to the British.The fort is 1300 meters long and 1000 meters wide.
It is in the shape of a horseshoe, surrounded by the Arabian Sea on three sides. One of the fort’s bastions, “Siddha Buruj”, has a lighthouse which was built in 1867. The old lighthouse was rebuilt in 1962.
There is a temple of Goddess Bhagwati inside the fort.

Ratnagiri Port (previously known as Mandvi)                                 

The Ratnagiri Port, about 2 kms from Ratnagiri, was built to welcome the Queen of England.
On its west is the Ratna Durg Port. The sea is to the South. It is the finest beach of Ratnagiri.
This place is also known as ‘Black Sea’ due to the shining black sand along its shore.

Fishery Research Center  

There is a Fisheries Research Center at Mandvi.
The aquarium here is worth visiting.

Rajapur Ganga

The Rajapur Ganga, three kms from nearby Rajapur, is a rare geological phenomenon. It is a large natural siphon from a nearby mountain.There are fourteen black stone ‘kunda’ (pools), each about 2.25 feet deep, about three feet apart.
Fragrant waters of Rajapur Ganga appear once about every three years in great force from one of the pools, and stay for about two months.
The temperature of water is different in the fourteen pools.

Thebaw Palace

The Thebaw Palace was built in 1910-11 for the stay of the exiled last King and the Queen of Burma (Myanmar). They stayed here during 1911-16. You can see their tombs.

Mālgund

The famous Marathi poet, Keshavsut, was born in the village of Malgund.

Jaigad Fort

This 17th century fort nestling on a cliff at the entrance of the Sangameshwar River offers a spectacular view of the sea.

Pawas

Swami Swaroopānand, an influential religious leader of Maharashtra, settled down in this town. His residence has been converted into an “āshram”.

Ganpatipule

Ganpatipule, 21 kilometers from Ratnagiri, has clean and unpolluted beaches.
It also has a well-known Ganesh temple.

Parashurām Temple (near Chiplun)

This temple was built by Maharshi Brahmendra in 1685.

Caves

Some caves in Chiplun, Khed, Dabhol, Sangameshwar, Gauhani Velgaum and Vade Padel are worth visiting.
Some Konkanese were converted to Buddhism here during the lifetime of Gautama (BC 560-481)

Reaching there

Air
Ratnagiri has an airport. But there are no commercial flights at present. Rail
Ratnagiri has a important railway station.

Road
Ratnagiri is well connected by road with important towns such as Mumbai, Pune, Kolhapur, etc.
The road is very good and the drive is enjoyable.

Accommodation

There are plenty of good and affordable hotels in Ratnagiri and neighbouring places.

Recommendation

The beach here is lovely and there are plenty of places to see around.
You can spend a week end or a few more days here.  

One of the finest beaches in West India        

                    
If you are looking for a beautiful, clean, pristine sea beach, far away from the mad, mad crowd, you will love Ganpatipule.
If you have the time and the inclination, there are a number of nearby forts to explore.
And of course, the famous 400 year old Ganapati temple is a major attraction.

Location

Ganpatipule is a small village on the sea coast near Ratnagiri – 375 kms south of Mumbai.
It is not too close to Mumbai, not very well known and therefore not crowded.

The beautiful journey

The road to Ganpatipule runs almost parallel to the western coast of India.
You pass through towns and villages scattered across roads lined with red tiled-roof houses having large courtyards with different kinds of fruit trees.
And you get beautiful glimpses of the casuarina lined coast.
The 7 hour road journey is thoroughly enjoyable.

Things to see in and around Ganpatipule

The Beach
The clean, sprawling beach is wonderful.
The blue waters of the Arabian sea and the silver sands transform you into one of the fairy tale islands.
You can play around in the water or walk across the beach in the moon light.

Swayambhu Ganapati Temple  
                                              
Swayambhu means ‘self appeared’.
It is believed that the idol of Ganesha in the temple originated by itself.
A lot of visitors take a ‘pradakshina’ or walk around the temple.
The one kilometre walk on the beautiful ‘Pradakshina Marg’ lined with trees and plants is enjoyable.
You get beautiful views of the beach from here.

Ganapatipule Market
Ganapatipule Market is small but interesting.
You can taste the local ‘Kokam’ sherbet, ‘Modak’ , Pav Bhaji, Chaat dishes, Wada Pav, Samosa Pav, Lime Water, etc.

Malgund
Malgund is a small village, about 2 kms away from Ganapatipule.
It is the birthplace of Keshavsoot, the famous Marathi poet.
You can visit his old house and see his inkpot, writing desk and ‘jhula’ (swing).

Jaigad Fort
This legendary fort is only 35 kms from Ganapatipule.

Ratnagiri
Ratnagiri, 45 kms from Ganaptipule, is the land of the ‘Hapus’ or Alphonso mangoes.
It is also the birthplace of Lokmanya Tilak, the famous freedom fighter.
His house is now open to the visitors.

Accommodation

MTDC Holiday Resort spread over 45 acres of land near the coast is the best.
The rates are also quite reasonable.

Hotel Land Mark, a little distance from Ganpatipule, is another good hotel.
There are several other cheaper hotels.

Getting there

Road
Mumbai to Ganapatipule – 375 kms
Pune to Ganapatipule – 331 kms
Ratnagiri to Ganapatipule – 45 kms

Rail
The nearest railway stations are Bhoke (35 kms from Ganapatipule) and Ratnagiri on (45 kms from Ganapatipule).
But the latter is more convenient.

Recommendation

I f you are fond of the sun, sand and sea, you should visit Ganapatipule.
You can spend a few days in peace.

You can taste Maharashtrian pickles, sea food, coconuts and mangoes.

The local people in Ganapatipule are very friendly.
You will love talking to them.

Unique Wildlife Sanctuary

According to the Ramayana, Lord Ram himself stood at this point and carried out reconnaissance of Ravana’s kingdom in Sri Lanka just 48 kms. away.
A stone slab at Ramarpatham (meaning Rama’s feet), the highest point of Point Calimere, bears the foot prints of Ram.

Now it is a unique wildlife and bird sanctuary.

Overview

Situated at the southern end of Nagapattinam district in Tamil Nadu, the sanctuary may be divided into three divisions:
· Point Calimere Forest;
· Great Vedaranyam Swamp, which includes the mangrove forests at Muthupet, and
· Talaignayar Reserve Forest.It is a marine – coastal wetland with a wide diversity of habitats , including dry evergreen forests, mangrove forests, and wetlands.

The coastal water is the breeding ground, or nursery, for many species of marine fishes.

Point Calimere Wildlife and Bird Sanctuary (PCWBS)

Point Calimere region was first identified as an area of high conservation importance by late Dr. Salim Ali, the world famous ornithologist, in 1962.
The Point Calimere Wildlife Sanctuary, with an area of 24.17 km², was created on June 13, 1967 for conservation of Black buck (Indian antelope), an endangered and endemic species of India.

In 1988, the Sanctuary was enlarged to include the Great Vedaranyam Swamp and the Talaignayar Reserve Forest, and renamed the Point Calimere Wildlife and Bird Sanctuary, with a total area of 377 km².

In November 2002, the sanctuary and some adjacent areas (excluding the reserved forest) were designated a Ramsar Site – a wetland of international of importance.

Animals

Fourteen species of mammals have been reported in the Sanctuary.
The most graceful are the sleek and beautiful black buck.
When I visited the Sanctuary, the black bucks did not allow me to come close.
They kept a respectable distance.
When I advanced towards them, they retreated.

Other large animals are spotted deer, wild boar, jackal, Bonnet macaque, mongoose, monitor lizards, black naped hare, Civet cat and semi wild ponies.

There are large colonies of flying foxes in the Point Calimere forest and in the mangrove forest at Muthupet.

Dolphins and turtles often come quite close to the shore.

Birds

The sanctuary has one of the largest water bodies in South India and is rich in both resident and migratory birds.

A total of 257 species of birds have been recorded of which 119 are water birds and 138 forest birds.
Some of the major water bird species are the greater flamingo, the lesser flamingo, spot – billed pelican, grey pelican, spoonbill sandpiper, Asian dowitcher, white bellied sea eagle, brahminy kite and osprey.
The land birds include paradise flycatcher, Indian pitta, Rosy starling, Blyth reed warbler, crested serpent eagle and brown shrike.

Since 1959, the Bombay Natural History Society has been conducting regular bird migration studies in the sanctuary.
So far, over 200,000 birds have been captured, studied, ringed and released.
Bombay Natural History Society has set up a new field station in Kodaikadu in 2007.

Flora

The vegetation of the Point Calimere Wildlife Sanctuary is diverse, ranging from dry evergreen forests, mangrove vegetation, salt marsh to grasslands.
If you are interested in plants, you can see carnivorous or insectivorous plants, such as, Drosera burmanii and D. indica.

Places to see

You can see the footprints of Lord Rama at Ramar Padam.
You can have a beautiful view of the sanctuary and the larger mammals and birds from the watch tower located near the shrine.
The historic ruins of a 1000-year old Chola light house were wiped out by the Tsumani of 2004.
A modern lighthouse built in 1890 guides the mariners.

Recommendation

Point Calimere is the apex of the Cauvery River delta, and forms a right-angle turn near the coastline.
The area is littered by salt pans. They may create ecological problems, but they do attract a large number of birds.

It’s a wonderful sanctuary.
You will see the graceful black bucks, a variety of birds, plants, dolphins, etc.

The forests of Point Calimere are one of the last remnants of the dry evergreen forests that were once typical of the East Deccan dry evergreen forests eco-region.

You can visit Thanjavur, just 90 km away, the seat of the celebrated Chola kings from the 10th to the early 14th century.
The entire South India is open to you beyond that….

Second largest Mangrove forest in the world

Almost two and a half decades ago, when I was working in Chennai, I first heard of the Mangrove Forests of Pichavaram – 14 kms. from Chidambaram.
I did not really know what Mangrove forests were and what Pichavaram was like.
I requested my friends to organize a visit.

After my visit, I wrote about Pichavaram in the Swagat (inflight magazine of Indian Airlines) and a number of other magazines.
To this extent, I take credit for increasing its popularity.

Since then, I have visited Pichavaram several times.
My last visit was a few months after the Tsunami of 2004.
Pichavaram is a unique success story.

Mangrove Forest

Pichavaram Mangrove Forest has been created by the backwaters, inter connected by the Vellar and Coleroon river systems.
The Mangrove Forest is followed by an extraordinary sand bank which makes a lovely sandy beach.
The total area of Pichavaram Mangrove Forest (including 50 small islands) is about 1470 ha.

The Pichavaram Mangrove Forest, the second largest in the world, is the healthiest mangrove forest in the world.

Mangrove Trees

Mangrove trees are unique.
Try to visualize trees standing on stilts.
And you have a rough likeness of what a mangrove tree looks like.

The mangrove trees grow in coastal areas of the tropics and sub-tropics, at the edge of waterways; and in estuaries, creeks and channels in the delta regions, where the water ebbs up and down twice every day.
The sea water rushes in and out, through the waterways, twice a day, changing the salinity of the water from that of sea water to fresh water.

The trees and other creatures have developed unique systems to survive and thrive in these harsh conditions.
The trees have developed unique stilt like roots.
The roots have pores through which the trees breathe oxygen when the water level is low and the roots are exposed.
The roots have specialized membranes which act like filters allowing only fresh water to enter.
If some salt passes through, it accumulates in the leaves, which later drop off to get rid of the salt.

Seeds could hardly survive in such hostile conditions.
The mangrove tree has developed a singular solution.
The seeds germinate on the tree itself and develop into cigar shaped seedlings.
When mature, the seedlings simply fall off the tree, penetrate into the soil and develop roots.
This ensures a high survival rate.
Soil and other debris accumulate between the roots, actually reclaiming land, and creating a unique eco-system.

Unique Creatures

The complex root system provides accommodation to a myriad creatures,including algae, barnacles, oysters, sponges and bryozoans.

The mudskipper fish comes out of the water on to the banks for short spells.The archer fish can shoot out a jet of water, much like the fireman’s hose, striking down small insects.All kinds of crabs and crustaceans live amidst the mud banks.

The habitat can also host commercially important species of fish and crustacea providing livelihood to the locals.

Birds

Pichavaram is the bird lover’s paradise.
The rich aquatic life attracts all kinds of birds.
You will find – the local residents, the immigrant residents and the genuine migratory birds that come annually to mate and breed.

Over 177 species of birds belonging to 15 orders and 41 families have been recorded in Pichavaram.
The peak season for birds is from November to January.

The Tsunami and after

The Tsunami hit the shores of India on December 26, 2004 at 08:32 in the morning.
At that time, I was having tea with a friend in Chennai.
I received a phone call from my friend in another city to enquire if I was all right.
Only then I learnt that the Tsunami had hit the eastern shores of India.

Cuddalore, where the Mangrove Forests are located, was heavily affected by the waves.
572 bodies were recovered and many were missing.
Several fishing hamlets simply disappeared.
Silver Beach and the historically important Cuddalore Port were devastated.
However, Fort St. David survived without damage.

The Income Tax Office in Cuddalore was slightly affected.
I immediately made arrangements to ensure that our staff were safe and received immediate help, if needed.

The loss of lives was too tragic.
But relief started pouring in.
My office in Chennai also collected and sent relief material for the local people.
The management of relief operations in the district was handled by the local authorities and villagers themselves.
They did a remarkable job.

The Tsunami proved that mangrove trees act as buffers and prevent damage to the hinterland.

Recommendation

Mangrove forests are gigantic biological sinks with an unrivalled capacity to absorb and assimilate chemicals and recycle them into nutrients.
Late M.G. Ramachandran used Pichavaram for his film Idayakani.

Later, when he became Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu, he developed the place.

However, till the early 1980s, policy makers and planners throughout the world, considered mangrove wetlands as wasteland.
This resulted in over exploitation and conversion of mangrove wetlands for other purposes.

Only after 1980s, the importance of mangrove forests has been understood and replanting programs have been started all over the world.

Inspite of this, over half the world’s mangroves have been lost in recent times.
But Pichavaram is an exception.
There has been new mangrove forestation to the extent of almost 90%.
Who says we cannot improve our environment.
We have done it.

Several reports, including a few by some scientists, mention that Pichavaram was declared a Reserve Forest in 1897.This cannot be correct.
I think the correct year is 1987.

See this unique place and the magnificent beach.
And you can see also Chidambaram Temple, the temple without a deity, and the Annamalai University, famous for its B.Ed. programs.

Unique Temple of the Formless Shiva

I have visited Chidambaram several times for three reasons.
· To meander through the Mangrove Forests of Pichavaram to the beach beyond.
· To visit, attend or give lectures at the Annamalai University.
· And to visit the Chidambaram Temple.

Meaning of the word Chidambaram

The word Chidambaram is derived from the two words ‘Chit’ meaning ‘consciousness’ and ‘ambaram’ meaning ‘sky’ (akaas) and signifies the sky of consciousness, which is the ultimate state one should attempt to attain.According to another version, the word Chidambaram is derived from Chitrambalam which is derived from two words ‘Chit’ and ‘ambalam’ meaning Stage for performing arts.

The Deity

Chidambaram Temple is unique because the main deity which is worshipped there is the Akash Linga or the formless form of Lord Shiva. Here, Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of ether (one of the five forms of matter) which has no form.As you can see on the left side of the photograph, there is no deity at all.The wall is covered with leaves of gold foil strung on strings. (Of course, there are a lot of other deities).

The Chidambaram Temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of Nataraja – the Cosmic Dancer.The beautiful image of Nataraja is extremely popular amongst artists.

History

We do not know much about the past of Chidambaram.But worship in this temple has continued uninterrupted since time immemorial.The Temple was definitely in existence in the 6th century A.D.Successive generations of the Chola, the Pallava and the Vijayanagar kings patronised the temple.The Chola King Aditya 1 started guilding a portion of the roof of the temple with gold.But the work was completed by his son.Mythology

A group of ‘rishis’ (saints) lived in the Thillai forests. They believed in magic and believed that even God could be controlled by rituals and ‘mantras’ or magical words.

Once, Lord Shiva was strolling through the Thillai forests in the form of ‘Pitchandanar’, a nude mendicant asking for alms.He had extraordinary beauty and radiance.He was followed by his consort. The wives of the rishis were enamoured by the handsome mendicant and his consort.

On seeing this, the rishis became angry and sent scores of serpents by performing magical rituals. Lord Shiva lifted the serpents and donned them as ornaments on his matted locks, neck and waist.

The enraged rishis sent a fierce tiger. Lord Shiva skinned it and tied its skin around his waist like a piece of garment. Still more infuriated, the rishis sent a powerful demon ‘Muyalakan’. Lord Shiva stepped on the demon’s back, immobilized him and performed the Ánanda thaandava (the dance of bliss or happiness).Then he discloses his true form. Only then, the rishis realized that Lord Shiva was beyond magic and rituals and surrendered to him.Govindaraja Shrine

The Chidambaram Temple complex also has a shrine of Govindarajaperumal (form of Lord Vishnu) and his consort Pundareegavalli Thaayar (form of Laxmi). It is rare to have shrines of both Shiva and Vishnu in the same temple.

Temple car

The Chidambaram Temple car is one of the most beautiful of temple cars in Tamil Nadu. This car is used to carry the statue of Lord Nataraja around the town twice a year.

The Gopurams

The temple has 9 gateways.Four of these have towering ‘gopurams’ or pagodas each with 7 levels in the East, South, West and North. The eastern gopuram has sculptures depicting all the 108 postures (karnams) of Bharat Natyam – an Indian form of dance.

Reaching there

Chidambaram is 240 km south of Chennai and about an hour’s drive from Pondicherry.There are plenty of trains from Chennai.The road is also very good.
The coast is about 11 kms from Chidambaram.

Recommendation

The temple complex spreading over 40 acres is full of exquisite statues.There is the Shivganga, the traditional tank.Chidambaram is also worshipped as the temple of Nataraj – the Cosmic Dancer.There is an annual dance festival.The top most Indian dancers deem it a privilege and honour to perform here.

Nataraj, the image of the Lord Shiva in the dancing pose has been copied all over the world.

All the major temples in Tamil Nadu are administered by the Government. Chidambaram is the sole exception.The huge temple complex looks like an undefeatable fort and has been used as such.

You can visit the Annamalai University, which pioneered the concept of distance education in India.
You can also visit the Pichavaram Mangrove Forests.

World Famous Ratha Yatra

Jagannath Puri, or simply Puri, is one of Adi Shankaracharya’s Char Dhams (or Four Places of Pilgrimage) located in the four corners of India. The other three are: Badrinath in the North (Himalayas); Dwarka in the West; and Rameshwaram in the South.
Badrinath is located amidst the snowy peaks of the Himalayas. The other three are located on the shores of the seas around India.

Jagannath Puri is world famous for its unique Ratha Yatra (Chariot Procession).

Ratha Yatras, on a smaller scale, are simultaneously organised in several parts of India and even abroad.Fairs and melas are organised during the nine day festivities.In Kolkata (Calcutta), the fairs attract shops selling plant and pets.

When I was small, I loved to go to these fairs and purchase a few plants and pets.As a result, I have kept such unconventional pets as lizards, scorpions, snakes, python, deer and peacocks.And all this was possible only because my parents never objected or protested.I don’t remember ever being reprimanded for my pets and plants.They heroically suffered the less than normal whimsical fancies of their little son.

Origin of the Word Jagannath

The word Jagannath comes from two Sanskrit words Jagat (meaning universe) and Nath (meaning master).Jagannath, meaning Master of the Universe, is another name for Lord Krishna.The most famous and oldest Jagannath temple in India is in Puri, Orissa.Because of this temple, Puri is also known as Jagannath Puri.

Mythology

There are two mythological stories relating to the deity.

Lord Krishna appeared to his great devotee, King Indradyumna and ordered him to get his deity carved out of a log he would find washed out on the sea shore.King Indradyumna duly recovered the log and found a mysterious old Brahmin carpenter willing to carve the deity.The carpenter insisted that under no circumstance, he should be disturbed while he was carving the deity.The king anxiously waited outside his room.

When all sound stopped, King Indradyumna could not restrain himself any longer.He opened the door and entered the room.He found the deity half-finished and the carpenter gone.King Indradyumna was very upset because the deity had no arms and legs.

Ultimately, Narada Muni appeared and explained that the carpenter was Vishvakarma, the heavenly sculptor of the Gods; and the form of Lord Krishna, the king saw, was one of the forms of Lord Krishna.

According to the second story, the gopis (maids) were talking about the pranks of Krishna, and about their love for him.The gopis had instructed Subhadra (Krishna’s sister) to keep watch and warn them if Krishna came.But after some time, Subhadra became completely engrossed in the conversation.She did not notice Krishna and his brother Balaram approaching.The two brothers listened to the gopis’ talk.Their hairs stood on end, their arms retracted, their eyes grew larger and larger, and they smiled broadly in joy.That is why Jagannath, Balaram and Subhadra look the way they do.

The Temple of Lord Jagannath

There is some disagreement amongst experts about the exact period of construction of the present temple. Construction of the present temple was started in the 12th century A.D. by King Ananta Burman Chodaganga Deva, founder of the Ganga dynasty in Orissa.But he could not complete it during his lifetime.The construction was completed by his successor Ananga Bhima Deva III.

The temple is built in the Kalinga style of architecture.It consists of a tall shikhara (dome) housing the sanctum sanctorum (garba griha) where the deity is placed.A pillar of fossilized wood is used for placing lamps as offering.Singhadwara (lion gate), guarded by two guardian deities, Jaya and Vijayais, is the main gate to the temple.A memorial column, brought here by the Raja of Khurda from the Sun Temple of Konarak, known as Aruna Stambha, faces the main gate.The three deities – Jagannath, Balabhadra (Balaram) and Subhadra are worshipped inside the temple.

Only Hindus are allowed inside the temple.Even Indira Gandhi was not allowed to enter the temple.More recently, a Thai princess was not allowed to enter the temple.
But once a year, during the rainy season, usually in June or July, the deities are brought out in one of the most clourful processions any where in the world.

Ratha Yatra

This festival is known as Ratha Yatra (Chariot Procession).The three deities – Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra are taken out on three separate richly decorated chariots, resembling temple structures, through the streets of Puri so that everyone can see them.The largest chariot is that of Jagannath – 45 feet high and 35 feet square.It is supported on 16 wheels with a diameter of 7 feet.New chariots are built every year.The Rathas (Chariots) are pulled by the millions of pilgrims who come to attend the festivities.It is considered a privilege to pull the Ratha.The King of Puri takes part in the procession.He sweeps the path in front of Jagannath’s chariot.

The Ratha Yatra commemorates Lord Krishna’s return to his home in Vrindavan after killing Kansa.Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra (Balaram) and Subhadra are taken to their aunt’s temple (Gundicha Mandir) – a distance of 2 km from the temple.The deity remain on their chariots for the night.In the morning, they are installed in the Gundicha Mandir.They remain there for seven days.On the ninth day, they are placed back on their chariots and return to their temple.By this time, most of the pilgrims would have gone back.Labourers have to be hired to pull the Rathas.

What to see

Puri is an important town of Orissa.It is famous for the Jagannath temple.
Its sprawling wide beaches, fishing farms and the superb resorts make Puri a major holiday destination of Eastern India.

Recommendation

Visit the exotic sea beaches.Swim in the sea.Watch the fishermen catch their fish.

Puri belongs to the Golden Triangle Circuit of Orissa covering Bhubaneswar, Konarak and Gopalpur-on-Sea.You can visit these places as well.
Incidentally, the English word ‘juggernaut’ owes its origin to these huge chariots.

Murud Janjira

Murud is a beautiful fishing village on the western coast of India – about 5 hours drive from Bombay (Mumbai). Since it has a municipality, water supply, schools and hospitals, you could even term it a small town.
It has a beautiful beach ideal for swimming, bathing and water sports. The beach is fringed with swaying coconut trees, a variety of palm trees and casuarinas. Unfortunately, the only water sport presently available is boating, sailing and deep sea fishing.
Murud is historically important because it was the capital of the Janjira State (area – 842 sq. kms.). The Nawabs of Janjira ruled the area around from here. The Janjira Fort is located 2 kms. into the sea – about 6 kms. from Murud.

History of Janjira State

During the past several centuries, traders brought slaves from Abyssinia and other parts of East Africa and sold them in Egypt, Arabia and India. The Abyssinian slaves had black skin and curly hair. They did not have the thick lips the Negroes have. They were called Habshis or Siddis.
They were faithful, brave and hard working. They were very trust worthy. In India, successive rulers appointed them to positions of high trust.
In 1490, King Malik Ahmed Shah of Ahmednagar broke away from the Brahmini kingdom and established his own Nizamshahi kingdom. He appointed his Abyssinian slave the commander of the Janjira Fort.
In 1621, Janjira became an independent state. Siddi Ambar Sankak Habshi became the first ruler of independent Janjira State. The Siddi rule continued for 327 eventful years till the merger of the State with India in May 1948. The last ruler was Siddi Mohamed Khan, who after the merger, settled down in Indore.
His successors have a palatial palace at Murud complete with a museum. But the present Nawab also lives in Indore.

History of Janjira Fort

The Janjira Fort has a colourful history. During the 15th century, the Rajpuri village which is 4 km. from Murud was inhabited by fishermen and the Nizams ruled the entire coastal region.With the Nizam’s permission, the fishermen built a wooden fort (Medhekot) on a huge rock in the sea, 2 km. off the shore of Rajapuri, to protect themselves from pirates and thieves.
Later, Burhan Khan, the minister of Nizamshah, the ruler at Ahmednagar, demolished the wooden fortress; and between 1567 and 1571 built an impregnable stone fort in its place. He named it Janjira Mehroob (Mehroob means crescent moon).
Siddi Ambarsatak, the fore father of the rulers of Janjira (later, they adopted the title of Nawabs), was nominated the commander of Mehroob.Shivaji made six unsuccessful attempts to conquer this fort. Later at various points of time, Sambhaji, the Peshwas, the British and the Portuguese tried to take over the fort, but Janjira remained unconquered till its merger with India in 1948. Janjira is one of the rare forts in Maharashtra which could not be taken over by the Marathas. The reason for this is the impregnable fort and superior naval forces and marine skills of the Siddis.
The Siddis ruled from the Janjira Fort which is located 2 kms. into the sea. Surrounded on all four sides by the Arabian Sea, the fort is undefeatable. It could never be captured by anyone. In the 1950s, the Archaeological Survey of India took over charge of the fort. They relocated all the residents of the fort to the nearby villages. Some restoration work is presently going on.

Nawab’s Palace

As you enter Murud, you will see the stately mansion of the Siddhi Nawabs of Murud Janjira perched on a high hillock overlooking the entire bay. You can visit the museum there. The present Nawab usually lives in Indore.

Janjira Fort

India has a large number of forts. But Janjira Fort is unique.
To visit Janjira, you have to go to Rajpur village (4 km). From there, you have to go to the Janjira Fort by sail boats. Rajpur has a harbour and a beautiful sea beach. For the first time in my life, I saw buffaloes swimming and bathing in the sea.
Once you reach the fort, you will find it most captivating. The strong entrance has successfully withstood numerous attacks.
The five-storied Surulkhana palace is almost in ruins. The top two stories have fallen off. Some renovation work is going on.
There are 2 large fresh water tanks inside the fort and some tombs.
The fort had about five hundred canons. But only a handful remain today. There are in all 19 Buruj (ramparts) in the fort. Every Buruj has huge guns capable of sinking any approaching vessel. Some of the guns bear names. The 3 most important big guns are ‘Kalal Bangadi’, ‘Chavari’ and ‘Landa Kasam’. These were built by an alloy of five different metals.
During its hey days, a large number of people lived inside the fort. But after it was taken over by the Archaeological Survey of India, the residents were moved out. Much of Janjira Fort has been corroded and washed away due to the insistant battering by the Arabian Sea. But what remains is still a most formidable structure.

Dattatreya Temple

The temple of Dattatreya is located on a high place on a hillock. You get a panoramic view of the entire bay from here.

Places to see around

Janjira Caves
For those interested in history, archaeology or religion, the 2000 years old Buddhist Caves near Bhalgaon (20 kms from Murud Janjira) are a must see. Leave a full day for exploring the caves and a wonderful picnic.

Padmadurg Fort
The Padmadurga Fort built by Shivaji Maharaj is situated to the north west of Janjira. It is not as big as Janjira Fort, but Padmadurga Fort is also an interesting sea fort which can be visited and enjoyed.

Beaches
There are two unspoiled beaches on the way to Murud – Nandgaon and Kashid. You can spend time swimming and sunbathing in these beaches.

Getting there

Distances
Murud is 150 km from Mumbai,

Air
The nearest airport is Mumbai 150 km.

Rail
Nearest railway station is Roha 122 km.

Sea
A most convenient way to go there is by ferry from Mazgaon Ferry Wharf to Rewas (23 km from Murud); or by catamaran from Gateway to Mandwa. From Rewas or Mandwa, you have to take a road transport.
(The ferry services are suspended during the monsoons)

Road
Mumbai to Murud 150 km
You can go to Murud by car or taxi. There are plenty of local public buses, too. The drive takes about 5 hours.
You have to travel up to Panvel and then take the road that passes through the Karnala Bird Sanctuary upto Pen. You have to cross Ali Bag (100 kms. From Mumbai). You will also cross the beautiful Nandgaon and Kashid beaches.
After 20 kms. From Alibag, you can also go to Murud via Roha, a small town dotted heavily with large and shady trees. This route is 10 kms. longer, but you will pass through beautiful country side.

Accommodation

There are a number of hotels where you can get food and accommodation at reasonable rates. There are no four or five star hotels. Try to stay in a hotel on the beach side.
There are a large number of restaurants where you can taste the authentic local (Konkanese) food.

Best Time to Visit

Murud has a pleasant coastal climate and can be visited any time of the year. But carry plenty of sun protection and light cotton clothes.
During the monsoons (rainy season), the sea can be rough and could be closed for swimming.

Conclusion

Murud Janjira is a beautiful tourist spot quite close to Mumbai. It is enjoyable. But it has yet to be fully developed to realize its full potential.