Sariska Tiger Reserve in Alwar, Rajasthan has been
in the news for the past four years – unfortunately for
the wrong reasons.

Sariska Tiger Reserve

The Sariska Tiger Reserve (866 sq. kms.) was originally a hunting preserve of the Kings of Alwar in Alwar District in the state of Rajasthan.
The area was declared a wildlife reserve in 1955.
In 1978, it was declared a Tiger Reserve and is now a part of India’s Project Tiger scheme.
It became a National Park in 1979.

The Sariska Tiger Reserve is larger than Ranthambore Tiger Reserve with similar topography, but is far less commercialized.

Sariska Tiger Reserve in the news

From the summer of 2004, there were persistent reports from people connected with tourism that no tigers were being sighted in Sariska Tiger Reserve in Rajasthan.Even more alarming was the fact that there was no other contemporary evidence (pugmarks, scratch marks on trees, etc) indicating the presence of the tiger. The Rajasthan Forest Department shrugged off any suggestions about the complete absence of tigers with a simple explanation – “the tigers had temporarily migrated outside the Reserve and would be back after the rains”.
The Project Tiger authorities endorsed the Rajasthan Forest Department’s view.In January 2005, Jay Mazoomdaar, an Indian Express journalist, broke the startling news that there were no tigers left in Sariska.
The Rajasthan Forest Department and the Project Tiger Directorate declared an “emergency tiger census” in Sariska and the Central Bureau of Investigation conducted a probe.

After a two months exercise, every one finally conceded that Sariska Tiger Reserve did not have any tiger left.

Relocation of Tigers to Sariska

But what is much more interesting, and cause for happiness for environmentalists, is that for the first time in India, the Rajasthan Government have decided to relocate tigers into the Sariska Tiger Reserve from the neighbouring Ranthambore Tiger Reserve.On 28th June 2008, one three and a half year old, male tiger, weighing 220 kgs., was tranquilised in Ranthambore Tiger Reserve and flown into Sariska Tiger Reserve (200 kms.) in an Indian Air Force helicopter.
The tiger has been temporarily kept in a 100 metres x 100 metres enclosure to help it get acclimatised in the new surroundings.
A four year old female, weighing 170 kgs., was flown in from Ranthambore on the 4th July 2008.
It has been kept in a separate enclosure.After the pair settle down, the door of the enclosure would be opened and the tigers would be allowed to wander off into the wilds.
Sariska has a rich prey base, and environment quite similar to Ranthambore Tiger Reserve.
It should be easy for the tigers to re-establish themselves.

If everything goes on well, and there is no reason why it should not,
within two years, three more tigers will be relocated to Sariska. Relocating tigers to a new habitat is being tried out in India for the first time.
If successful, this will revive the tiger population at Sariska and open up fresh opportunities to save the majestic tiger.

Most likely, the disappearance of the tigers in 2004 was due to poaching. The other major hurdles are: 
·         11 villages in the core area;
·         Heavy traffic on a portion of the Jaipur-Alwar highway that passes
        through the Sariska Tiger Reserve; and
·         Heavy traffic to the ancient temple at Pandupole – in the core forest –  22 kms. from the entrance.The authorities have already shifted one village.
Each relocated family has been paid a generous compensation of Rs 10 lakhs (earlier this was only Rs. 1 lakh).
Three more villages will be shifted soon.

The traffic on the stretch of the Jaipur-Alwar highway passing through the Sariska Tiger Reserve has already been diverted via a bye pass.Efforts are on to minimize traffic to the Pandupole temple by pursuasion.

Adverse impact on Ranthambore Tiger Reserve

There is no fear of the number of tigers in Ranthambore being adversely effected.
In fact, Ranthamore has 34 tigers and their numbers are fast increasing.
It has actually become necessary to relocate some tigers.
Moving them to Sariska is the best decision.

There has been some criticism that relocation of tigers has always failed, and that the relocated tigers would die.
The relocated tigers are being fitted with radio collars and their movement will be constantly monitored through satellite.
The collars, costing Rs 8 lakh each, have been purchased from a Canadian firm, Lotek.
The satellite is operated by the Argos system, supported by Nasa (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (US)), and the French space agency, CNES.
The Argos system is already monitoring more than 4,200 animals worldwide.The radio transmitters send out information in short pulses.
The pulses are picked up by the satellite which retransmits them to the Argos centres for processing.
The radio tracking will help wildlife authorities keep effective track of the movement of each tiger and prevent poaching.

Vegetation

The landscape of Sariska comprises of hills and narrow valleys of the Aravali hills.
The vegetation is scrub-thorn arid forests, dry deciduous forests, rocks and grasses.
Other Animals

Some of the other animals in the Reserve include the leopard, jungle cat, hyena, jackal, chital, sambar, carecal, langur, wild boar, four-horned deer (chowsingha) and several species of birds.In the morning and evening, the animals in Sariska head towards the many water holes, which litter the park, providing the guests their best chance of viewing animals.It is possible to book hides situated in prime spots for wildlife viewing at some of these watering holes.
What to see around

There are temples, forts and ruins in and around Sariska.
There are historical buildings associated with the Maharajas of Alwar such as the Sariska Palace (the royal hunting lodge of the former Maharaja of Alwar State Jai Singh).
The Kankwadi Fort (located near the centre of the Sariska Reserve)  has a long history.
In the 17th century, Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb briefly imprisoned his brother Dara Shikoh here in the battle for succession to the Mughal throne.
There are ancient temples, such as the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple and Garh Rajor temples dating back to the 9th and 10th centuries.

Location

Sariska Tiger Reserve is situated 200 km from Delhi and 107 kms from Jaipur.
It covers an area of 800 sq km in total, with a core area of approximately 500 sq. kms.

I am delighted that the Wildlife Institute of India and officers of Rajasthan Forest Department are jointly and actively involved in this experimental project.
But there is no excuse why the two set ups could not detect the complete absence of tigers much earlier ….. and continued giving out lame explanations. Unfortunately, this is not the first relocation attempt of tigers.
In 1928, Maharajah Lakshman Singh of Dungarpur ordered the first successful relocation of a pair of tigers from the forests of Gwalior to the forests of Dungarpur where they had all been killed by hunters.
The tiger population gradually increased to 25 in 1947.

But once again, there are no tigers left in the forests of Dungarpur.
And remember, there were no radio collars, no helicopters and all the back ups available and used today.

The Golden City 

Where would you go if you wanted to see sand, desert and sand dunes in India?The best place is Jaisalmer – in the middle of Thar Desert in Rajasthan.JaisalmerThe small town of Jaisalmer, nicknamed “The Golden City” – because this is what the town looks like – stands on a ridge of yellow sandstone on top of the Trikuta Hill.
It is crowned by a fort, which contains the palace buildings and beautiful Jain temples. Even today, a fourth of the population live within the Fort.
Many of the houses and temples are beautifully sculpted. 

History

According to legend, Lord Krishna told Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav clan would build his kingdom on top of Trikuta Hill.

In keeping with this prophesy, Rawal Jaisal, a descendant of Yadav clan, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. 

Deoraj, a famous prince of the family known as ‘Bhati’ family, is considered to be real founder of the Jaisalmer dynasty. He adopted the title of Rawal. Rawal Jaisal, the sixth in succession from Deoraj, founded the fort and city of Jaisalmer in 1156, and moved over to Jaisalmer from the former capital at Lodhruva (situated about 15 kms to the south-east of Jaisalmer).
Jaisalmer, meaning “the Hill Fort of Jaisal”, was named after him.
 The first siege of Jaisalmer took place in 1294 during the reign of Alauddin Khilji.
Alauddin Khilji was angered by Bhatis’ raid on a caravan filled with treasure.
Alauddin Khilji’s army captured and sacked the fort and the city of Jaisalmer.
For quite some time, Jaisalmer lay deserted.We do not know what happened during the next decades.
Next, we find Rawal Sahal Singh, who acknowledged the supremacy
of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan.The major opponents of Jaisalmer rulers were the powerful rulers of Jodhpur and Bikaner.
They used to fight for the possession of forts, waterholes or cattle.Jaisalmer was strategically positioned as a halting point along a traditional trade route used by camel caravans commuting between Indian and Asian markets. The main source of income of Jaisalmer were the levies on the caravans.
However, the importance of Jaisalmer declined when Bombay emerged as a port, and sea trade replaced the traditional land routes.
The partition of India in 1947 led to the closing of all trade routes through the Indo-Pak border.  
But the skirmishes between India and Pakistan gave Jaisalmer a strategic importance and it became an army supply depot.
Later, the Rajasthan Canal revived the surrounding desert areas.
And the Government built roads and railways, knitting the remote Jaisalmer with the rest of Rajasthan.

What to seeJaisalmer Fort 

From its 250 feet high vantage point on the hill, the Fort stands vigil over the surrounding desert.
Its massive walls follow the contours of the hills.
The Fort has five interconnected palaces with intricate ‘jaali’ screens and beautiful ‘jharokhas’.
Steep cobblestone pathways passing through the four gates lead to the royal palace.
The sharp twists and turns make the fort invincible.

Jain Temples

Inside the fort, there are four Jain temples, dedicated to Rishabdevji Sambhavnathji and Parshvanathji. The Parshvanathji Temple is the oldest and the most beautiful of all.
Human and animal figures are carved on the walls of its sanctum.
The dome or ‘shikhar’ is  crowned by an amalak and a water pot containing a lotus flower.

Gyan Bhandar or Library 

The Jain temples have a library containing some of the oldest manuscripts of India. 

Gadsisar Lake

Excavated in 1367 by Rawal Gadsi Singh, the Gadsisar is a beautiful rainwater lake surrounded by small temples and shrines.This lake has a beautiful arched gateway.
Today, it is an ideal picnic and boating spot. 

Havelis

There are a number of beautiful Havelis in Jaisalmer.

Salim Singh-ki-Haveli – This was once the residence of the Mohta family, ministers of Jaisalmer rulers. 

Patwon-ki-Haveli – This five haveli wonder is the grandest mansion in Jaisalmer.
Its ceilings are supported by exquisitely carved pillars and the balconies are delicately chiselled.

Nathmalji-ki-Haveli –  This was carved by two brothers.
One worked from the right side and the other from the left.
But the entire construction is harmonious.

Places to see around Jaisalmer

Lodurva (16 kms)

The former capital of Jaisalmer rulers is an  important pilgrimage centre  for Jains.
An architectural masterpiece of Lodurava is the ‘Toran’ or ornate arch at the main entrance with its exquisite carvings.
‘Kalpatru’, or the divine tree, is another great attraction.

Sam Sand Dunes (42 kms)

The not to be missed thing to see in Jaisalmer are the sand dunes.
The shifting ripples on the sand dunes, caused by the wind, some as high as 150 feet, constantly create and recreate new designs.
They are the photographer’s delight.Various cultural programs are  organised against the backdrop of these fascinating dunes.
A lot of Hindi films are shot around the sand dunes.
If you are fond of adventure, you can go out on a camel safari – in the desert on camel back. 

Wood Fossil Park (17 kms)

This park, on the Barmer Road, takes  you back to the Jurassic period.
You can see 180 million year old fossilized trees. 

Desert National Park

This 3162 sq. kms. vast Biosphere Reserve lies to the south-west of Jaisalmer. 
This is one of the largest National Parks in India, but very different from the ones we are accustomed to. Here you can see sand dunes.
You can see the Indian Gazelle, Chinkara and a lot of birds.

You can see the rare and endangered Great Indian Bustard in relatively large numbers.
This bird migrates locally in different seasons.
There are a lot of other migratory and resident birds – eagles, harriers, falcons, buzzards, kestrel and vultures. Short-toed Eagles, Tawny Eagles, Spotted Eagles, Laggar Falcons and Kestrels.
You can see the Sand grouse near small ponds or lakes.The best time to visit the wild life is between November and January.However, the three day Desert Festival in February is unique.
You can see and hear folk dancers swing to the enchanting folk music under the full moon.
You can watch the unique turban tying contest and the Mr. Desert contest.

Reaching there

Air

The nearest airport is Jodhpur (285 kms).

Rail

Jaisalmer has a railway station and is connected with Jodhpur by night train.

Road

Jaisalmer is well connected by good roads with all the major cities of India.

Distances

Ahmedabad (626 kms)
Bikaner 325 km Pokaran (112 kms) 
Jaipur (558 kms)
Jodhpur (285 kms Via Pokaran) 
Mumbai (1177 kms)
New Delhi (864 kms)

Recommendation
 
Satyajit Ray, the famous Indian film director, wrote a detective novel based on this fort.
He later made it into the film – Sonar Kella (The Golden Fortress).
Jump to: navigation, search Every house in Jaisalmer is exquisitely carved, having filigree work all over.
Most of the houses date back to the 12th to 15th centuries.
And hence, Jaisalmer is also called ‘the Museum city’. Surrounded by desert, sand and sand dunes, Jaisalmer is truly a
different experience.

Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

 In the first part, I gave an overview of Ladakh and took
the reader east of Leh to Changla Pass and Pangong Lake.
In the second part, I wrote about some wonderful places West of Leh.
In this part, I am writing about Khardung La, the highest motorable road in the world to the North of Leh and the unbelievably beautiful Nubra Valley beyond.
I am also writing about the beautiful Tsomoriri Lake, and Dhahanu, the Land of the purest surviving Aryans to the South of LehNubra Valley via Khardung La – The Highest Motorable road in the World (40 Kms from Leh)Nubra Valley, popularly known as Ldumra or the valley of flowers, is situated in the north of Ladakh between 

the Karakoram and Ladakh ranges of the Himalayas.
The average altitude of the valley is 10,000 feet above sea level. The Nubra Valley was opened to tourists only in 1994. It is a fascinating place.
The road to Nubra Valley passes over Khardung La pass 18,390 feet, or 5602 metres, above sea level. This is the highest motorable road in the world.

We almost reached the pass, but found the road blocked by an errant truck which like the proverbial mule had suddenly decided it was time to stop and block the entire traffic.
So we got out and played around in the ice and snow.

We met two motor cyclists who had driven all the way from Bangalore covering more than 5,000 kms.
Even they had to turn back.If you cross Khardung La pass, you can see all the way south across the Indus valley to the endless peaks and ridges of the Zanskar range; and north to the giants of the Saser massif.From the pass, you travel down to Diskit, the main village and head quarter of Nubra Valley.
The Diskit Monastery, perched on an overhanging rock next to a stream, was foundedby Lama Sherab Zangpo of Stod around 1420 A.D.It has a rich collection of Thangkas, magnificent statues and old mural paintings.Diskit has a small market consisting of a row of shops.
The Shayok and Saichen Rivers drain the Nubra Valley.
You journey will take you through pretty villages, green farms, myricaria, willow and poplar trees. After leaving Diskit, you come across sand dunes.
These are just like the sand dunes of Rajasthan.
You can even take a ride on a bacterian (double humped) camel from Deskit to Hunder village lasting about two hours.
You can visit the King’s palace and the monastery in Hunder. Thereafter, you can cross the Shayok River and travel along Saichen River to Panamik.
There are a number of hot springs on the right of the road just before you enter the village. 

Dhahanu – land of the pure Aryans (163 Kms from Leh)

Dhahanu is situated to the south west of Leh, and being on a lower altitude, Dhahanu is warmer than Leh.
There are many small villages – but only two villages –  Dha and Hanu are open to tourists. You can see the Brokpa Community considered to be the last race of pure Aryans.
Their culture and religious practices are very similar to ancient pre- Buddhist religion known as Bon. 

Tsomoriri Lake (137 Kms from Leh)

Surrounded by 20,000 feet peaks, which effectively isolate the lake from the world, Tsomoriri Lake (salty lake) and other lakes are situated south east of Ladakh in the middle of the elevated district of Rupso Valley – off the Manali – Leh Road, near the site of old sulphur mines, at altitude ranging about 16,500 feet.
The valley is inhabited by a small scattered population of “Changpas” nomadic shepherds.You can visit the monastery on the top of the village, belonging to the yellow sect.
It has about 35 resident monks.
A kilometre ahead of Tsomoriri lake is the picturesque village of Korzok consisting of about a hundred families.
The area is rich in wildlife including the wild ass, black necked cranes and geese which flock to the lake side for breeding during the summer months.  

You should stay overnight at the lake.

Trekking

Ladakh is the trekkers’ paradise.
You can ask your hotel or the local agents to organise all kinds of treks – from simple two day affairs to the most difficult treks extending over three weeks.

Tibetan Medicine

Tibetan medicine is an ancient system of medicine based on the Indian Buddhist system of medicine developed by Buddha himself some 2500 years ago.
This indigenous health care system plays an important role in the health care
of Ladakhi communities. In Ladakh, the practitioners of this system are known as ‘Amchi’.
The skills are generally passed down from father to son or daughter within the village.
There are many Amchis who are the sixth generation.
This is known as the rGYUTPA lineage.New Amchis have to take their passing out examination orally in front of the whole village.
They are examined by a panel of senior Amchis from surrounding villages.  Amchis provide free health care to the villagers.
Quite often, they are also strong community leaders or Village Heads.
They are usually quite knowledgeable even in Astronomy and Astrology.
In return, the villagers respect the Amchis and help them with their agricultural activities and offerings.   

The Oracle

The oracle (both male and female) is something like a soothsayer.
If you have any disease, they will conduct a healing.
If you have any questions, they will advise you. You can request your hotel or travel agent to arrange a session with an Oracle.
The Oracle at Thikse Monastery, a villager with supernatural powers, a miraculous healer and predictor of the future, is considered to be the most powerful oracle in Ladakh.  

Importance of Leh

Leh was on the middle of the best trade route between Punjab and Central Asia.
During its hey days, caravans carried textiles, spices, silk, carpets, dyestuffs and narcotics.
The goods were transported through relays of pony transporters who took about two months to transport the goods from Amritsar to the Central Asian towns of Yarkand and Khotan, or vice versa
.
Leh was a bustling entrepot, with bazaars thronged with merchants from far countries.

A Legend and Folklore

Chovang Namgyal, one of the richest and powerful kings of Ladakh died in 1600 without a male heir.
His younger brother, Jamya Namgyal, succeeded him and ascended the throne.  
Alimir, the Mir of Skardo, attacked Leh and captured it.
He took Jamya Namgyal as prisoner. But the Mir’s daughter fell in love with the king and became pregnant.
The Mir married his daughter to Jamya Namgyal.
The oracles prophesied that the daughter would give birth to a
very strong and powerful king.
So Jamya Namgyal became king once again.
And his son became a great ruler.

Permits

Both Indians and foreigners  need permits to visit the distant places of Ladakh.
These are easily obtained in one day.
Your hotel will get them for you.

Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

In the first part, I gave an overview of Leh and Ladakh.
And I took the readers on a journey east of Leh – past Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Chemrey, over Changla Pass and on to the beautiful Pangong Lake.
In this second part, I will write about some wonderful places West of Leh.We will visit some of the oldest monasteries; the sangam (confluence) of Indus and Zanskar Rivers; the unique Magnetic Hill; and meet our furry friends – the Yak and Pashmina sheep.

Original Religion of Ladakh

I was curious to know what was the religion of Ladhak before Buddhism.
The original religion of Ladakh (and also Tibet) was Bon founded by Tönpa Shenrab or gShen-rab mi-bo (also known as Buddha Shenrab, Guru Shenrab, Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche, Lord Shenrab Miwo and other titles). gShenrab mi-bo is the founder of the Bön religion and occupies a position very similar to that of Śākyamuni in Buddhism.
Like the Buddha Shakyamuni, Tönpa Shenrab was of royal birth.
Tönpa Shenrab left his royal inheritance at the age of 31, to follow the path of enlightenment.
Tönpa Shenrab embraced the life of a renunciate and commenced austerities, spreading the dharma in the land of Zhangzhung near what is believed to be Mount Kailash. But we have no reliable sources to establish his historicity, his dates, his racial origin, his activities, and the authenticity of the enormous number of books attributed either directly to him or believed to be his word.
The latter, the Bonpo say, were written down after his death in much the same way as the Buddhist scriptures were assembled.
No pre-10th century materials are available which could throw light on activities such as his visit to Tibet.

A new wave of Buddhism entered Ladakh when the reformist sect of the Gelugpa created by Tsongkhapa led to the reestablishment of monasteries in the 15th century.
Most of the old shrines of the earlier Bon religion were converted into Buddhist monasteries.

 
Lamayuru Monastery (125 Kms west of Leh)

This is the oldest and most spectacularly set monastery built in the 10th century by Rinchen Zangpo at the request of the King of Ladakh.But Lamayuru has a more historic pre-Buddhist, Bon history, and is one of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh.
Its real name is Yungdrung, signifying swastika.

Also known as Tharpa Ling or “Place of Freedom”, the Lamayuru Monastery is considered a sanctuary, even for criminals; and is guarded by an 11-headed, 1000-eyed image of Chenrezi, the Buddha of Compassion.

The Yak and the Pashmina Sheep
In the village below Lamayuru Monastery, we found some Pashmina sheep who give the finest wool.

We also saw the Yak.
Today, no Yak survive in the wild in Ladakh.
All the existing ones are domesticated ones.
I asked the driver how much milk the Yak gives.
He answered the Yak does not give milk.
The reason is the word Yak is used for the male of the species.

Hills of Different ColoursWhen you drive from Leh towards Lamayuru, you cross barren hills.
The colours of the hills are remarkably different.
Snow White. Blues. Pinks and Mauves.

You pass through Orchards of Apricots.

You also travel along the crystal clear Indus River gurgling on its long journey.
 

Nimu – Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers (17 Kms from Leh)

The Zanskar river merges into the Indus at this beautiful and scenic spot.

Magnetic Hill (30 kms from Leh)This is a unique place.
It defies the law of gravity.
A vehicle parked in neutral gear on the metallic road here actually slides up the hill.
The locals told me that some scientists wanted to do some testing but permission was refused.

Lekir Monastery (52 Kms from Leh)

Likir was built more than 500 years ago during the reign of Lachen Gyalpo and in those days, it housed more than 600 monks.
The monks of Likir were the caretakers of Alchi.
The head Lama today is the younger brother of H.H. the Dalai Lama, although he is not in residence.Likir used to house images and Thankas that surpassed those at Alchi.
Many of the old treasures and much of the old structure was destroyed in a fire.
Most of the present buildings date from the 18th century.
The Monastery has a small, but interesting, museum.

Alchi Monastery (70 Kms from Leh)

Alchi Monastery is the only monastery in Ladakh built on flat ground.
The Monastery contains three 3-story high statues of the Bodhisatvas.
One of the largest and most famous of all monasteries, Alchi was built by the great translator Ringchem Zangpo in the 11th century which accounts for the Kashmiri-Hindu influence in the wooden carvings on the doors, ceiling designs and murals..

In the next part – Leh III, I will write about some more interesting places.
 

the land of the Golden Haapus                
or Alphonso Mangoes
                              
Ratnagiri is a small idyllic coastal town – 330 kilometres south of Mumbai.
It is famous for golden Haapus or Alfonso mangoes and for the horse shoe shaped fort.

Haapus or Alphonso Mangoes

Haapus is grown mainly in western India in and around Ratnagiri.
In terms of sweetness, flavour and rosy colour, Haapus mangoes are considered to be the best Indian mangoes.
And they are certainly the costliest mangoes.
Unfortunately, Haapus have a very short shelf life.Haapus and other mangos are also used to make sweets, candies, milkshake, lassi, jelly, jam and a variety of non aerated mango drinks.

Origin of the name Alphonso

The species has been named Alfonso after Dom Afonso de Albuquerque, a Portugese Navy Commander, who established the Portuguese colonial empire in the Indian Ocean. He used to carry Haapus mangoes from Goa to Portugal.
The people in the U.S. could not taste Indian Mangoes for 18 long years because U.S. had banned their import. The ban was lifted in April 2007.
Japan had imposed similar ban in 1986. This was lifted after 20 years – in 2006.

Mythology

According to mythology, after performing their pilgrimage on the 13th year, the Pandavas settled down near Ratnagiri.
When the Pandavas left the place for the Kurukshetra war, King Veeravat Ray of this region also accompanied them.

What to see

Ratnagiri Fort (also called Ratna Durg or Bhagwati Durg)

This historical fort was built by the Bahamani rulers between 1350 AD and 1500 AD.
In 1670, Shivaji conquered the fort from Bijapur ruler Adil Shah.
In 1731, the fort came under the control of Satara kings.
In 1818, it was surrendered to the British.The fort is 1300 meters long and 1000 meters wide.
It is in the shape of a horseshoe, surrounded by the Arabian Sea on three sides. One of the fort’s bastions, “Siddha Buruj”, has a lighthouse which was built in 1867. The old lighthouse was rebuilt in 1962.
There is a temple of Goddess Bhagwati inside the fort.

Ratnagiri Port (previously known as Mandvi)                                 

The Ratnagiri Port, about 2 kms from Ratnagiri, was built to welcome the Queen of England.
On its west is the Ratna Durg Port. The sea is to the South. It is the finest beach of Ratnagiri.
This place is also known as ‘Black Sea’ due to the shining black sand along its shore.

Fishery Research Center  

There is a Fisheries Research Center at Mandvi.
The aquarium here is worth visiting.

Rajapur Ganga

The Rajapur Ganga, three kms from nearby Rajapur, is a rare geological phenomenon. It is a large natural siphon from a nearby mountain.There are fourteen black stone ‘kunda’ (pools), each about 2.25 feet deep, about three feet apart.
Fragrant waters of Rajapur Ganga appear once about every three years in great force from one of the pools, and stay for about two months.
The temperature of water is different in the fourteen pools.

Thebaw Palace

The Thebaw Palace was built in 1910-11 for the stay of the exiled last King and the Queen of Burma (Myanmar). They stayed here during 1911-16. You can see their tombs.

Mālgund

The famous Marathi poet, Keshavsut, was born in the village of Malgund.

Jaigad Fort

This 17th century fort nestling on a cliff at the entrance of the Sangameshwar River offers a spectacular view of the sea.

Pawas

Swami Swaroopānand, an influential religious leader of Maharashtra, settled down in this town. His residence has been converted into an “āshram”.

Ganpatipule

Ganpatipule, 21 kilometers from Ratnagiri, has clean and unpolluted beaches.
It also has a well-known Ganesh temple.

Parashurām Temple (near Chiplun)

This temple was built by Maharshi Brahmendra in 1685.

Caves

Some caves in Chiplun, Khed, Dabhol, Sangameshwar, Gauhani Velgaum and Vade Padel are worth visiting.
Some Konkanese were converted to Buddhism here during the lifetime of Gautama (BC 560-481)

Reaching there

Air
Ratnagiri has an airport. But there are no commercial flights at present. Rail
Ratnagiri has a important railway station.

Road
Ratnagiri is well connected by road with important towns such as Mumbai, Pune, Kolhapur, etc.
The road is very good and the drive is enjoyable.

Accommodation

There are plenty of good and affordable hotels in Ratnagiri and neighbouring places.

Recommendation

The beach here is lovely and there are plenty of places to see around.
You can spend a week end or a few more days here.  

Shakti Peeth  of  Mahalakshmi and  
the Gateway to Karnataka and Goa       
                                   

Kolhapur is famous for its Mahalakshmi Temple which devout Hindus believe will fulfill all their wishes.
There are plenty of places to see around. And, you can stay in a real lake side palace without making a big hole in your pocket.

Kolhapur

Kolhapur is an ancient city, to the extreme south of Maharashtra, famous for its really spicy food which will make your mouth burn; headwear, footwear, jewellery; religious connections; its association with wrestling and with the film industry.

Kolhapur is the historical capital of the Marathi film industry.
Some legendary film personalities, like V. Shantaram, started their career here.
Raja Harishchandra, the first feature film produced in India in 1913, was conceptualized here.
Kolhapur still hosts several film festivals and provides good location for shooting.
Famous wrestlers are groomed and trained here.
Some of the Maharajahs of Kolhapur have been very good wrestlers.

Kolhapur is also the entrance to Karnataka and Goa.

Mythology

According to mythology, when Goddess Mahalakshmi killed Kolhasur, a demon who was troubling the local people, Kolhasur expressed the desire that the city be named after him.
Mahalakshmi fulfilled his last wish, and named the city after him.

History of Kolhapur

The states of Satara and Kolhapur came into existence in 1707, because of the succession dispute over the Maratha kingship.
Shahu Sambhaji, heir to the Maratha kingdom, captured by the Mughals at the age of nine, was their prisoner at the time of the death of his father Sambhaji (the elder son of Shivaji Maharaj – founder of the Maratha Empire) in 1700.
Maharani Tara Bai proclaimed his cousin Rajaram, as the king under her regency.
In 1707, the Mughals set Shahu Sambhaji free under certain conditions and he returned to claim his inheritance.
He defeated the regent at the Battle of Khed and established himself at Satara, forcing Maharani Tara Bai and her son to retire to Kolhapur.

The British sent expeditions against Kolhapur in 1765 and 1792.
After the collapse of the Maratha confederacy in 1812, Kolhapur entered into treaty with the British.
In the early years of the 19th century, the British again invaded Kolhapur, and for some time even appointed a political officer to temporarily manage the state.
The last ruler of Kolhapur was HH Maharaja Chhatrapati Shahaji II Puar.

Kolhapur was one of the four Marattha States of British India – the other three being Baroda, Gwalior and Indore.

After India attained independence in 1947, Kolhapur ceded to the Dominion of India on 14 August 1947 and merged with Bombay state on 1 March 1949.

The boundaries of the present Kolhapur district approximately correspond with those of former Kolhapur kingdom.

Places to see in and around Kolhapur                                                                                                       
Mahalakshmi Temple                                                                      

This is the must see place.
The puranas have listed 108 sites where Shakti (the goddess of power) is manifest.
Of these, 6 are Shakti Peethas – abode of Shakti, where one can achieve fulfillment of all desires as well as salvation.
Of these six, the Karveer area (the area where Kolhapur is located), is most important.
It is believed that Mahalakshmi and Vishnu reside in this area.
Because of its special significance, Kolhapur is also known as “Dakshin Kashi”.

The temple, built around 700 A.D. during the Chalukyan rule, is mounted on a stone platform.
The image of Mahalakshmi is made of gemstone and weighs about 40 kilograms.

She has four arms and wears a crown.
The crown has an image of Shesh Nag – the serpent of Vishnu.
A stone lion, the vahana of Mahalakshmi, stands behind the statue.

In most Hindu temples, the images face north or east.
But in Kolhapur, Mahalakshmi faces the west (Pashchim).

There are beautiful statues all around the temple.

Jotiba Temple

The Jotiba Temple is situated to the north of Kolhapur deep in the forests, surrounded by mountains and dangerous precipices.
According to mythology, Jotiba helped Mahalakshmi in her fight with the demons.

The original temple was built in 1730 by Navajisaya.
This temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas and is also called Kedarnath of the South.

The Maharaja’s Palace                                                                                            

The present Maharaja’s family lives on the first floor of this magnificent Palace.
This palace, designed by Charles Mant, a British architect, was completed in 1881.
It is a mix of a Victorian railway station and the Addams Family mansion.

The ground floor has been converted into the Shahaji Chhatrapati Museum which contains a large number of memoralia worth seeing – animal trophies, weapons, paintings, etc.

 There is also a small menagerie.                             

Town Hall

The town hall, built by Mant between 1872-76, is a small museum containing pottery and bronze artefacts unearthed during archaeological excavations on nearby Brahmapuri Hill. One of the interesting exhibits is a small bronze statue of the Greek God Poseidon holding a Siva- like trident.

Panhala Hill Station

Panhala is a little visited hill station 18 km northwest of Kolhapur.
The formidable fort on the hilltop has a long and interesting history.

You can also visit the nearby Pawala Caves and a couple of Buddhist cave temples.

Reaching there

Air
Air Deccan has daily flights from Mumbai and Bangalore.

Train
Kolhapur is well connected to Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore and Miraj by rail.

Road (Distances)
Kolhapur to Mumbai – 396 kms.
Kolhapur to Pune – 240 kms.
Kolhapur to Bangalore – 600 kms.
Kolhapur lies on National Highway 4 (NH4) which connects Mumbai to Bangalore.
Mumbai to Kolhapur is about 7 hours drive by road.
The road is very good.

Recommendation

Kolhapur is a nice, cozy place.
Surprisingly, it has one of the highest per capita income in India.
And a large contingent of Mercedes cars.

You can visit the sacred ghats on the Panchganga River or the Lake Rankala, five kms from the railway station.

If you wish to stay in a real palace at an affordable rate, stay at Hotel Shalini Palace, the Maharaja’s old summer palace, by Lake Rankala.
You will never forget your stay.

You can visit Goa and several other places.

One of the finest beaches in West India        

                    
If you are looking for a beautiful, clean, pristine sea beach, far away from the mad, mad crowd, you will love Ganpatipule.
If you have the time and the inclination, there are a number of nearby forts to explore.
And of course, the famous 400 year old Ganapati temple is a major attraction.

Location

Ganpatipule is a small village on the sea coast near Ratnagiri – 375 kms south of Mumbai.
It is not too close to Mumbai, not very well known and therefore not crowded.

The beautiful journey

The road to Ganpatipule runs almost parallel to the western coast of India.
You pass through towns and villages scattered across roads lined with red tiled-roof houses having large courtyards with different kinds of fruit trees.
And you get beautiful glimpses of the casuarina lined coast.
The 7 hour road journey is thoroughly enjoyable.

Things to see in and around Ganpatipule

The Beach
The clean, sprawling beach is wonderful.
The blue waters of the Arabian sea and the silver sands transform you into one of the fairy tale islands.
You can play around in the water or walk across the beach in the moon light.

Swayambhu Ganapati Temple  
                                              
Swayambhu means ‘self appeared’.
It is believed that the idol of Ganesha in the temple originated by itself.
A lot of visitors take a ‘pradakshina’ or walk around the temple.
The one kilometre walk on the beautiful ‘Pradakshina Marg’ lined with trees and plants is enjoyable.
You get beautiful views of the beach from here.

Ganapatipule Market
Ganapatipule Market is small but interesting.
You can taste the local ‘Kokam’ sherbet, ‘Modak’ , Pav Bhaji, Chaat dishes, Wada Pav, Samosa Pav, Lime Water, etc.

Malgund
Malgund is a small village, about 2 kms away from Ganapatipule.
It is the birthplace of Keshavsoot, the famous Marathi poet.
You can visit his old house and see his inkpot, writing desk and ‘jhula’ (swing).

Jaigad Fort
This legendary fort is only 35 kms from Ganapatipule.

Ratnagiri
Ratnagiri, 45 kms from Ganaptipule, is the land of the ‘Hapus’ or Alphonso mangoes.
It is also the birthplace of Lokmanya Tilak, the famous freedom fighter.
His house is now open to the visitors.

Accommodation

MTDC Holiday Resort spread over 45 acres of land near the coast is the best.
The rates are also quite reasonable.

Hotel Land Mark, a little distance from Ganpatipule, is another good hotel.
There are several other cheaper hotels.

Getting there

Road
Mumbai to Ganapatipule – 375 kms
Pune to Ganapatipule – 331 kms
Ratnagiri to Ganapatipule – 45 kms

Rail
The nearest railway stations are Bhoke (35 kms from Ganapatipule) and Ratnagiri on (45 kms from Ganapatipule).
But the latter is more convenient.

Recommendation

I f you are fond of the sun, sand and sea, you should visit Ganapatipule.
You can spend a few days in peace.

You can taste Maharashtrian pickles, sea food, coconuts and mangoes.

The local people in Ganapatipule are very friendly.
You will love talking to them.