Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

 In the first part, I gave an overview of Ladakh and took
the reader east of Leh to Changla Pass and Pangong Lake.
In the second part, I wrote about some wonderful places West of Leh.
In this part, I am writing about Khardung La, the highest motorable road in the world to the North of Leh and the unbelievably beautiful Nubra Valley beyond.
I am also writing about the beautiful Tsomoriri Lake, and Dhahanu, the Land of the purest surviving Aryans to the South of LehNubra Valley via Khardung La – The Highest Motorable road in the World (40 Kms from Leh)Nubra Valley, popularly known as Ldumra or the valley of flowers, is situated in the north of Ladakh between 

the Karakoram and Ladakh ranges of the Himalayas.
The average altitude of the valley is 10,000 feet above sea level. The Nubra Valley was opened to tourists only in 1994. It is a fascinating place.
The road to Nubra Valley passes over Khardung La pass 18,390 feet, or 5602 metres, above sea level. This is the highest motorable road in the world.

We almost reached the pass, but found the road blocked by an errant truck which like the proverbial mule had suddenly decided it was time to stop and block the entire traffic.
So we got out and played around in the ice and snow.

We met two motor cyclists who had driven all the way from Bangalore covering more than 5,000 kms.
Even they had to turn back.If you cross Khardung La pass, you can see all the way south across the Indus valley to the endless peaks and ridges of the Zanskar range; and north to the giants of the Saser massif.From the pass, you travel down to Diskit, the main village and head quarter of Nubra Valley.
The Diskit Monastery, perched on an overhanging rock next to a stream, was foundedby Lama Sherab Zangpo of Stod around 1420 A.D.It has a rich collection of Thangkas, magnificent statues and old mural paintings.Diskit has a small market consisting of a row of shops.
The Shayok and Saichen Rivers drain the Nubra Valley.
You journey will take you through pretty villages, green farms, myricaria, willow and poplar trees. After leaving Diskit, you come across sand dunes.
These are just like the sand dunes of Rajasthan.
You can even take a ride on a bacterian (double humped) camel from Deskit to Hunder village lasting about two hours.
You can visit the King’s palace and the monastery in Hunder. Thereafter, you can cross the Shayok River and travel along Saichen River to Panamik.
There are a number of hot springs on the right of the road just before you enter the village. 

Dhahanu – land of the pure Aryans (163 Kms from Leh)

Dhahanu is situated to the south west of Leh, and being on a lower altitude, Dhahanu is warmer than Leh.
There are many small villages – but only two villages –  Dha and Hanu are open to tourists. You can see the Brokpa Community considered to be the last race of pure Aryans.
Their culture and religious practices are very similar to ancient pre- Buddhist religion known as Bon. 

Tsomoriri Lake (137 Kms from Leh)

Surrounded by 20,000 feet peaks, which effectively isolate the lake from the world, Tsomoriri Lake (salty lake) and other lakes are situated south east of Ladakh in the middle of the elevated district of Rupso Valley – off the Manali – Leh Road, near the site of old sulphur mines, at altitude ranging about 16,500 feet.
The valley is inhabited by a small scattered population of “Changpas” nomadic shepherds.You can visit the monastery on the top of the village, belonging to the yellow sect.
It has about 35 resident monks.
A kilometre ahead of Tsomoriri lake is the picturesque village of Korzok consisting of about a hundred families.
The area is rich in wildlife including the wild ass, black necked cranes and geese which flock to the lake side for breeding during the summer months.  

You should stay overnight at the lake.

Trekking

Ladakh is the trekkers’ paradise.
You can ask your hotel or the local agents to organise all kinds of treks – from simple two day affairs to the most difficult treks extending over three weeks.

Tibetan Medicine

Tibetan medicine is an ancient system of medicine based on the Indian Buddhist system of medicine developed by Buddha himself some 2500 years ago.
This indigenous health care system plays an important role in the health care
of Ladakhi communities. In Ladakh, the practitioners of this system are known as ‘Amchi’.
The skills are generally passed down from father to son or daughter within the village.
There are many Amchis who are the sixth generation.
This is known as the rGYUTPA lineage.New Amchis have to take their passing out examination orally in front of the whole village.
They are examined by a panel of senior Amchis from surrounding villages.  Amchis provide free health care to the villagers.
Quite often, they are also strong community leaders or Village Heads.
They are usually quite knowledgeable even in Astronomy and Astrology.
In return, the villagers respect the Amchis and help them with their agricultural activities and offerings.   

The Oracle

The oracle (both male and female) is something like a soothsayer.
If you have any disease, they will conduct a healing.
If you have any questions, they will advise you. You can request your hotel or travel agent to arrange a session with an Oracle.
The Oracle at Thikse Monastery, a villager with supernatural powers, a miraculous healer and predictor of the future, is considered to be the most powerful oracle in Ladakh.  

Importance of Leh

Leh was on the middle of the best trade route between Punjab and Central Asia.
During its hey days, caravans carried textiles, spices, silk, carpets, dyestuffs and narcotics.
The goods were transported through relays of pony transporters who took about two months to transport the goods from Amritsar to the Central Asian towns of Yarkand and Khotan, or vice versa
.
Leh was a bustling entrepot, with bazaars thronged with merchants from far countries.

A Legend and Folklore

Chovang Namgyal, one of the richest and powerful kings of Ladakh died in 1600 without a male heir.
His younger brother, Jamya Namgyal, succeeded him and ascended the throne.  
Alimir, the Mir of Skardo, attacked Leh and captured it.
He took Jamya Namgyal as prisoner. But the Mir’s daughter fell in love with the king and became pregnant.
The Mir married his daughter to Jamya Namgyal.
The oracles prophesied that the daughter would give birth to a
very strong and powerful king.
So Jamya Namgyal became king once again.
And his son became a great ruler.

Permits

Both Indians and foreigners  need permits to visit the distant places of Ladakh.
These are easily obtained in one day.
Your hotel will get them for you.

Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

In the first part, I gave an overview of Leh and Ladakh.
And I took the readers on a journey east of Leh – past Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Chemrey, over Changla Pass and on to the beautiful Pangong Lake.
In this second part, I will write about some wonderful places West of Leh.We will visit some of the oldest monasteries; the sangam (confluence) of Indus and Zanskar Rivers; the unique Magnetic Hill; and meet our furry friends – the Yak and Pashmina sheep.

Original Religion of Ladakh

I was curious to know what was the religion of Ladhak before Buddhism.
The original religion of Ladakh (and also Tibet) was Bon founded by Tönpa Shenrab or gShen-rab mi-bo (also known as Buddha Shenrab, Guru Shenrab, Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche, Lord Shenrab Miwo and other titles). gShenrab mi-bo is the founder of the Bön religion and occupies a position very similar to that of Śākyamuni in Buddhism.
Like the Buddha Shakyamuni, Tönpa Shenrab was of royal birth.
Tönpa Shenrab left his royal inheritance at the age of 31, to follow the path of enlightenment.
Tönpa Shenrab embraced the life of a renunciate and commenced austerities, spreading the dharma in the land of Zhangzhung near what is believed to be Mount Kailash. But we have no reliable sources to establish his historicity, his dates, his racial origin, his activities, and the authenticity of the enormous number of books attributed either directly to him or believed to be his word.
The latter, the Bonpo say, were written down after his death in much the same way as the Buddhist scriptures were assembled.
No pre-10th century materials are available which could throw light on activities such as his visit to Tibet.

A new wave of Buddhism entered Ladakh when the reformist sect of the Gelugpa created by Tsongkhapa led to the reestablishment of monasteries in the 15th century.
Most of the old shrines of the earlier Bon religion were converted into Buddhist monasteries.

 
Lamayuru Monastery (125 Kms west of Leh)

This is the oldest and most spectacularly set monastery built in the 10th century by Rinchen Zangpo at the request of the King of Ladakh.But Lamayuru has a more historic pre-Buddhist, Bon history, and is one of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh.
Its real name is Yungdrung, signifying swastika.

Also known as Tharpa Ling or “Place of Freedom”, the Lamayuru Monastery is considered a sanctuary, even for criminals; and is guarded by an 11-headed, 1000-eyed image of Chenrezi, the Buddha of Compassion.

The Yak and the Pashmina Sheep
In the village below Lamayuru Monastery, we found some Pashmina sheep who give the finest wool.

We also saw the Yak.
Today, no Yak survive in the wild in Ladakh.
All the existing ones are domesticated ones.
I asked the driver how much milk the Yak gives.
He answered the Yak does not give milk.
The reason is the word Yak is used for the male of the species.

Hills of Different ColoursWhen you drive from Leh towards Lamayuru, you cross barren hills.
The colours of the hills are remarkably different.
Snow White. Blues. Pinks and Mauves.

You pass through Orchards of Apricots.

You also travel along the crystal clear Indus River gurgling on its long journey.
 

Nimu – Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers (17 Kms from Leh)

The Zanskar river merges into the Indus at this beautiful and scenic spot.

Magnetic Hill (30 kms from Leh)This is a unique place.
It defies the law of gravity.
A vehicle parked in neutral gear on the metallic road here actually slides up the hill.
The locals told me that some scientists wanted to do some testing but permission was refused.

Lekir Monastery (52 Kms from Leh)

Likir was built more than 500 years ago during the reign of Lachen Gyalpo and in those days, it housed more than 600 monks.
The monks of Likir were the caretakers of Alchi.
The head Lama today is the younger brother of H.H. the Dalai Lama, although he is not in residence.Likir used to house images and Thankas that surpassed those at Alchi.
Many of the old treasures and much of the old structure was destroyed in a fire.
Most of the present buildings date from the 18th century.
The Monastery has a small, but interesting, museum.

Alchi Monastery (70 Kms from Leh)

Alchi Monastery is the only monastery in Ladakh built on flat ground.
The Monastery contains three 3-story high statues of the Bodhisatvas.
One of the largest and most famous of all monasteries, Alchi was built by the great translator Ringchem Zangpo in the 11th century which accounts for the Kashmiri-Hindu influence in the wooden carvings on the doors, ceiling designs and murals..

In the next part – Leh III, I will write about some more interesting places.
 

Gateway to the Gods       

Haridwar (also called Hardwar) is a timeless, beautiful, holy city on the banks of the river Ganga or Ganges River.
The word Haridwar, meaning Gateway to the Gods, is derived from two words – ‘Dwar’ meaning Gateway and ‘Hari’ meaning God.It is here the holy Ganga enters the Indo-Gangetic plains of India after traversing 253 kms (157 miles) down the hills from its source Gaumukh at the tip of the Gangotri Glacier – 3,139 metres (10,300 ft) above sea level.

Mythology

The God and the Demons churned the oceans (Samudra Manthan) to obtain Amrita, the elixir of immortality. Amrita was deceptively taken by the Gods and carried away by Garuda – Lord Vishnu’s Vahan.

Some Amrita accidentally spilled over in four places – Allahabad, Haridwar, Nasik and Ujjain.
These four places are considered very holy and religious festivities called the Kumbha Mela are celebrated once every 3 years in each of these 4 places by rotation.It is believed that in Haridwar, the Amrita fell at the place called Brahma Kund at Har-ki-Pauri (meaning “footsteps of the Lord”) which is considered the most sacred ghat (river bank) of Haridwar.It is here that King Bhagirath, the great-grandson of King Sagar, brought down the mighty river Ganga from Heaven for the salvation of his 60,000 ancestors who had been turned to ashes by the Sage Kapil Muni.Lord Vishnu is believed to have left his footprint on the stone set in the upper wall of Har-Ki-Pauri, where the Holy Ganga touches it at all times.

History

Haridwar is a very ancient city.
Archaeological findings prove that terra cotta culture dating between 1700 BC and 1200 BC existed in this region.
Haridwar came under the rule of the Maurya Empire (322 -185 BC), and later under the Kushan Empire (1st – 3rd centuries).Haridwar was visited by the Chinese traveller, Huan Tsang, in 629 AD.
The Turkish invader Timur Lang (1336-1405) invaded the city on January 13, 1399.The first Sikh Guru, Guru Nanak (1469-1539), bathed at ‘Kushwan Ghat’. Haridwar is also mentioned in the Ain-e-Akbari written by Abul Fazal during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar, in the 16th century.
During Akbar’s rule, there was a mint for copper coins at Haridwar.Raja Man Singh of Amber laid the foundation of the present day city of Haridwar and also renovated the ghats at Har-ki-pauri.
After his death, his ashes were immersed at Brahma Kund by Mughal Emperor Akbar himself.Bhimgoda Dam, one of the two major dams on the river Ganga, is situated here.
It was constructed to divert the waters of the Ganga to the ‘Upper Ganges Canal’ to irrigate the surrounding lands.
Work on the Upper Ganges Canal started in April 1842.
The Canal was opened in 8 April 1854.
Its main channel was 348 miles long, its branches 306 miles long and the various tributaries over 3000 miles long. The unique feature of this Canal is a half-kilometre long aqueduct over Solani River at Roorkee, which raises the canal 25 metres above the original river.
Before construction of this dam, ships of the East India Company, sailed right up to Tehri.
After construction of the Canal, much of the water was diverted to the fields and ships could no longer sail up.

Places to see


Hari-Ki-Pauri  – 1.5 km                                                        

This sacred bathing ghat also known as Brahmakund was constructed by King Vikramaditya  during the 1st century BC in memory of his brother Bhrithari.
The Aarti, or evening prayer, offered to Goddess Ganga at dusk every day is a fascinating spectacle.
The pilgrims float hundreds of diyas (lamps on floats) on the river.

Chandi Devi Temple – 6 kms

This temple dedicated to Goddess Chandi sits atop the ‘Neel Parvat’ on the eastern bank of river Ganga.
The main statue was established by the Adi Shankaracharya in 8th century A.D.
The temple is a 3 kms walk from Chandighat, but can also be reached by a ropeway.

Mansa Devi Temple – 0.5 km

Situated at the top of Bilwa Parwat, the temple of Goddess Mansa Devi, (literally meaning Goddess who fulfills desires) is a popular tourist destination.
The cable car offers a picturesque view of the entire city.

Maya Devi Temple – 0.5 km

This is one of most ancient temples dating to the 11th century.

Daksha Mahadeo Temple and the Sati Kund – 4 kms

Lord Shiva’s first wife Sati self-immolated herself here.

Bhimgoda  Tank – 1 kms

This tank is situated at a distance of about 1 km from Har-ki Pauri.
When the Pandavas were going to Himalayas through Haridwar, Bhima drew water from the rocks here by thrusting his knee, or goda, into the ground.

Neel Dhara Pakshi Vihar – 3.5 kms

This Bird Sanctuary is situated on the main Ganga River, or Neel Dhara, at the Bhimgoda barrage.
It is a paradise for bird watchers and home to many migratory birds during the winter season.

Jairam  Ashram

Here is a massive white statue depicting the famous Samudra Manthan.
 
Sapt  Rishi Ashram and Sapt Sarovar – 7 kms

A picturesque place. The seven great sages or Saptarishis – Kashyapa, Vashisht, Atri, Vishwamitra, Jamadagni, Bharadwaja and Gautam meditated here.
At this place, the Ganga split herself into seven streams so that the Rishis were not disturbed.

Parad Shivling – 2 kms

Situated in Harihar Ashram, Kankhal.
There is huge Shivling weighing about 150 kgs and Rudraksha tree.

Pavan Dham

This modern temple is made entirely of glass pieces.

Bharat Mata Mandir

Each floor of this multi-storey temple, dedicated to Bharat Mata (Mother India), depicts an era of the Indian History, from the days of Ramayana to India’s independence.


Reaching there

Air
The nearest airport is Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun,
But most tourists come through New Delhi airport.

Railway
Haridwar has a railway station with direct links to all major cities of India.

Road
Haridwar, is well connected by road by the National Highway 58, between Delhi and Mana pass.
It is 200 kms. or about 6 hours drive from Delhi.

Recommendation

Haridwar is one of the seven holiest places of the Hindus.
A dip in the Holy Ganga here is believed to wash away all sins.
A lot of Hindus visit Haridwar.Moreover, this is the usual entry point to Rishikesh, the Char Dhams and the Himalayas beyond.Haridwar is also an important centre of Ayurvedic and herbal medicine and the unique Gurukul school of traditional education. The Pandas of Haridwar keep meticulous genealogical  records of Hindus visitors who come here.
You can find the dates your ancestors or relatives visited the place.

Gateway to the Himalayas  
   
                                              
Rishikesh is a picturesque holy city on the banks of the Ganga or Ganges River at the foothills of the Himalayas.
Rishikesh and its surroundings are ideal for Vedic learning, yoga, spiritual meditation and similar activities. You can climb into the ice and snow covered mountains; stroll through the dense forests harbouring a variety of animals and birds; or engage in a number of adventure sports.Rishikesh is also the starting point for onward travel to the Char Dhams – Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri  (the four holy pilgrimages) – and is therefore known as the gateway to the Himalayas.

Mythology


Lord Rama performed penance here after killing Rāvana, the demon King of Sri Lanka (Ceylon).
Adi Shankaracharya visited the place and established the original Bharat Mandir temple on the banks of the Ganges River in the heart of the old town during the 12th century.
The Inner sanctum of the temple has an idol of Lord Vishnu, carved out of a single Shaligram.
Above the idol is a Shree Tantra installed by Adi Shankaracharya.
There are numerous temples, ancient as well as new, along the banks of the Ganges River in Rishikesh.

Vedantic Studies and Yoga

Rishikesh is known throughout the world as ‘the world-capital of Yoga’.The 120 year old Kailas Ashram Brahmavidyapeetham, an institution for the preservation and promotion of traditional Vedantic Studies, is located here.
Swami Vivekananda, Swami Rama Tirtha and Swami Sivananda studied in this institution.During the mid-1960s, The Beatles visited the now closed Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram.
Several artists, like Mike Love of The Beach Boys, Donovan and Gyp Mills, and the Hollywood star Kate Winslet have visited the place to contemplate and meditate.You can spend a few weeks, or months, in one of the many Ashrams delving into the secrets of yoga and meditation.

Description

The term Rishikesh is loosely applied to five distinct sections encompassing the town and the settlements on both sides of the river Ganges.
These include:
1.  Rishikesh town, the commercial hub;
2.  The suburb Muni-ki-Reti, or the “sands of the sages”;
3.  Sivananda Nagar, north of Rishikesh, home of Sivananda Ashram and head quarters of the Divine Life Society founded by Swami Sivananda;
4. The temple section of Lakshman Jhula, a little further north; and the
5. The Ashrams around Swarg Ashram on the east bank.

What to see

Town  Area

Bharat Mandir
This is a major centre of attraction.
The original temple was destroyed by Tamur lane in 1398 A.D. and later rebuilt.

Triveni Ghat
This is the most popular ghat in the town area where most pilgrims take holy dip in the river.
The daily evening Arti at the Ghat is really fascinating.

Rishikund
Close to Triveni Ghat is the most ancient place, the Rishikund.
Goddess Yamuna purified this pond with her water.

Ram Jhula Area

Geeta Bhawan
One of the oldest temple complex in the area.
The two famous Indian epics Ramayan and Mahabharat are described on the walls of the temple here.

Parmarth Niketan
One of the most famous temple complex and ashram in the area .
It is doing a lot of religious and charitable work in the area.

Transcendental Centre of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi
Situated on the extreme end of Geeta Bhawan, amidst peaceful forests, is Maharishi’s Transcendental Meditation Centre.
It is now laying practically abandoned.

Lakshman Jhula Area

Tera Manzil Temple
This is a multistoried temple complex of idols of Gods and Goddesses.
You can have an excellent view of the entire area from the top floors of the temple complex.

Places to Visit around Rishikesh

Vasishtha Goofa
About an hour’s drive from Rishikesh up the river is the Vasishtha Goofa, where sage Vasishtha meditated long ago.
The cave is very peaceful and is a perfect place for meditation.

Kunja Puri Temple
Kunja Puri is  one of the thirteen most important Goddesses of Shivalik range in the lower Himalayas.
You can witness beautiful  sunrise and sun set on the Greater Himalayan Peaks and the vast Indo Gangetic plains .
You can see most of the peaks of Garhwal Himalayas from here.


Wild Life

The Rajaji National Park is close by.
Chilla, the core zone the Park,  is a mere  19 kms drive from Rishikesh.
The Park is located where the Himalayan foothills end and the Indo Gangetic Plains begin.
You can see a great variety of animals and migratory and domestic birds along the Ganges.
You can meander through the forest on elephant back, or on jeeps, or both.

Skiing

Auli – 8-9 hrs drive from Rishikesh – is one of the best Skiing slopes in Asia with many high peaks such as, Nanda Devi, surrounding the slopes.
You have to drive up Rishikesh along the Ganges River to Devprayag, the ancient town at the beginning of the holy Ganga; along the Alakananda to Joshimath;  and on to Auli passing through the unbelievably beautiful towns of  Rudraprayag and Karanprayag perching on the confluence of various rivers. The Skiing season at Auli starts from the end of December or early January and lasts till the end March.


White Water Rafting and Camping

Rishikesh is one of the best places for white water rafting.
You can spend one or more days.
The  activities and trips can include rock climbing, rappelling, small treks, kayaking and camping.

Spas

Rishikesh has the best Spas of India and all kinds of authentic Ayurvedic treatment centres.

Ananda in the Himalayas
Situated inside the Palace of Garhwal Rulers at Narendra Nagar, Ananda is the best Spa. This is a little expensive. 

High Bank Peasants Cottage (HBPC)
HBPC has spa and also provides Ayurvedic treatment including “Kaya Kalpa”.  

Reaching there

Air
The nearest airport is Jolly Grant in Dehradun only 35kms away from Rishikesh.
But most visitors prefer to come via Delhi.

Rail
The nearest station is Haridwar.
Haridwar is a major railway station in the region.
There are many express trains connecting Haridwar to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Allahabad and other cities.

Road
Rishikesh is very well connected to the major cities of Uttaranchal and India, such as, Agra, Chandigarh, Dehradun, Delhi, Haridwar, Lucknow, Mussourie and Nainital.
But the most convenient way is to travel by road from Delhi
Rishikesh is 224 kms (6 hours drive) from Delhi.

Recommendation

The Lakshman Jhula – the hanging bridge across the Ganges River is fascinating.
Rishikesh is a perfect place for a few days rest and recreation.
You can visit the high mountains and the Char Dhams, meander through the Rajaji National Park, or try one of the adventures sports.

 

and the legendary Veerendra Heggade              
I have visited a number of educational and medical institutions in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu of South India.

Most of them are beautifully supplementing the work the Government is doing. In 2004, I was invited to inaugurate a wing of the Hospital of the SDM College of Medical Sciences in Dharwad (Karnataka).
The institution had applied for permission to start a medical college which was then pending.It has a beautiful campus.  Neat and clean. Well planned modern infrastructure – and a very good team of doctors.
Almost across the road is a sister institution – the SDM Dental College – older and one of the finest in the country.I received an invitation to visit Dharmasthala and meet Virendra Heggade – the hereditory head of the SDM group.
So I landed in Dharmasthala. A beautiful, historic place, seeped in legend, mythology and religion.In Dharmasthala, I had the rare privilege of personally meeting Virendra Heggade. He even presented me the traditional silk shawl, a garland and a silver coin.

Mythology

About 800 years ago, Dharmasthala was a small village known as Kuduma.
A pious Jain, Birmanna Pergade and his wife, lived in this village in a house called Nelliadi Beedu.
The Pergade family was famous for their generosity and hospitality.One day, disguised as humans, four Devas (Gods) arrived at Pergade’s house in search of a suitable place for propagating Dharma (religion). The Pergade family welcomed the guests.  
The Devas liked the place, explained the purpose of their visit and requested Pergade to vacate Nelliadi Beedu for worship and dedicate his life to the propagation of Dharma.
In return, the Devas promised Pergade protection for his family, abundance of charity and renown for the ‘Kshetra’.Pergade built himself another house and began worshipping the Devas at Nelliadi Beedu.
Later, he brought a Gold Shivalinga from Kadri, a place near Mangalore; and built the Manjunatha temple around the Shivalinga.

History and Administration

The administration of the temple and its assets devolves by heredity. Around the 16th Century, Devaraja Heggade invited Vadiraja Swami of Udupi to visit the temple.
The Swamiji came, but refused to accept food, because the idol of lord Manjunatha had not been consecrated according to Vedic rites.
Devaraja Heggade requested Swamiji to reconsecrate the Shivalinga.
The Swamiji consecrated the idol according to Vedic rites and renamed the place Dharmasthala (place of charity).Manjayya Heggade, the head from 1918 to 1955 – 37 years – was a great scholar and social reformer. He put Dharmasthala on the map of India.

Padma Bhusan Veerendra Heggade

The present head of the institution Veerendra Heggade became the
21st head on 24th October 1968, at the young age of 20.
He is doing a lot of philanthropic work for the public and he has been awarded the Padma Bhushan, one of the highest civilian awards in India.
He is fond of collecting old and antique objects.

The position of the Heggade (Chief)

The position of the Heggade (Head) of Dharmasthala is unique.
There is no parallel anywhere in the world.
He is also called Dharmadikari (custodian of religion).

He is a family man.
He is a divine person  –  representative of Lord Manjunath.                                           
He supervises the four traditional Danas (charities) – Anna Dana (food); Aushada Dana (medicine); Vidya Dana (education); and Abhaya Dana (protection).
He also dispenses justice. All visitors to Dharmasthala are provided free accommodation and food.                                                                                                                     
The kitchen and dining rooms are worth seeing.
During the peak periods, the number of diners swells up to 10,000 per day.
All this involves huge logistics. Procurement. Preparation. Cooking. Serving. Washing utensils, etc.
Many of the processes have been mechanised. And every process is extremely hygienic. There are medical colleges and hospitals dispensing medicine.The 25 educational establishments provide a variety of courses, including schooling, management, law, engineering, ayurveda, naturopathy and medicine. Free mass marriages have been organized from 1973.

Hoyilu – the Judicial Function

Hoyilus, or civil complaint, can be submitted at Dharmasthala by any person.  When such a complaint is received, an intimation is sent to the opposite party who is requested to come to the temple if there is any truth in the complaint.
When both parties appear before the Heggade and present their cases, he gives his verdict which is accepted as law.
This is a unique dispute redressal mechanism.

Bahubali Statue
 
Rathnavarma Heggade commissioned the famous sculpturer, Renjala Gopala Shenoy of Karkala, to carve a statute of Bahubali.
Renjala started the statue in 1967 in Karkala and finished in 1970.
Carved out of a single rock, the statue is 39 feet (12 m) high and 175 tons in weight. Transportation of this huge statue from Karkala to Dharmasthala and its installation on a hill top posed tremendous problems.
The statue was installed on its pedestal on a hillock on 25 December 1975. Manjusha – a museum

The museum Manjusha has a unique collection of rare manuscripts, works of art,  metal and stone statues, paintings and other historical objects.

Vintage Car Museum

This museum contains old horse chariots and a large collection of vintage cars.
Every exhibit is in good running condition.


Reaching thereDharmasthala is about 100 kms from Udupi and about 70 kms from Mangalore.

Recommendation

Located amidst the picturesque Western Ghats on the banks of the Nethravathi River, Dharmasthala is one of the finest temple towns in India.
The temple is unique because it is run by a Jain administrator and poojas are performed by Madhva priests.
And the organization is engaged in a lot of educational and other philanthropic work.

One of the finest beaches in West India        

                    
If you are looking for a beautiful, clean, pristine sea beach, far away from the mad, mad crowd, you will love Ganpatipule.
If you have the time and the inclination, there are a number of nearby forts to explore.
And of course, the famous 400 year old Ganapati temple is a major attraction.

Location

Ganpatipule is a small village on the sea coast near Ratnagiri – 375 kms south of Mumbai.
It is not too close to Mumbai, not very well known and therefore not crowded.

The beautiful journey

The road to Ganpatipule runs almost parallel to the western coast of India.
You pass through towns and villages scattered across roads lined with red tiled-roof houses having large courtyards with different kinds of fruit trees.
And you get beautiful glimpses of the casuarina lined coast.
The 7 hour road journey is thoroughly enjoyable.

Things to see in and around Ganpatipule

The Beach
The clean, sprawling beach is wonderful.
The blue waters of the Arabian sea and the silver sands transform you into one of the fairy tale islands.
You can play around in the water or walk across the beach in the moon light.

Swayambhu Ganapati Temple  
                                              
Swayambhu means ‘self appeared’.
It is believed that the idol of Ganesha in the temple originated by itself.
A lot of visitors take a ‘pradakshina’ or walk around the temple.
The one kilometre walk on the beautiful ‘Pradakshina Marg’ lined with trees and plants is enjoyable.
You get beautiful views of the beach from here.

Ganapatipule Market
Ganapatipule Market is small but interesting.
You can taste the local ‘Kokam’ sherbet, ‘Modak’ , Pav Bhaji, Chaat dishes, Wada Pav, Samosa Pav, Lime Water, etc.

Malgund
Malgund is a small village, about 2 kms away from Ganapatipule.
It is the birthplace of Keshavsoot, the famous Marathi poet.
You can visit his old house and see his inkpot, writing desk and ‘jhula’ (swing).

Jaigad Fort
This legendary fort is only 35 kms from Ganapatipule.

Ratnagiri
Ratnagiri, 45 kms from Ganaptipule, is the land of the ‘Hapus’ or Alphonso mangoes.
It is also the birthplace of Lokmanya Tilak, the famous freedom fighter.
His house is now open to the visitors.

Accommodation

MTDC Holiday Resort spread over 45 acres of land near the coast is the best.
The rates are also quite reasonable.

Hotel Land Mark, a little distance from Ganpatipule, is another good hotel.
There are several other cheaper hotels.

Getting there

Road
Mumbai to Ganapatipule – 375 kms
Pune to Ganapatipule – 331 kms
Ratnagiri to Ganapatipule – 45 kms

Rail
The nearest railway stations are Bhoke (35 kms from Ganapatipule) and Ratnagiri on (45 kms from Ganapatipule).
But the latter is more convenient.

Recommendation

I f you are fond of the sun, sand and sea, you should visit Ganapatipule.
You can spend a few days in peace.

You can taste Maharashtrian pickles, sea food, coconuts and mangoes.

The local people in Ganapatipule are very friendly.
You will love talking to them.

Unique Temple of the Formless Shiva

I have visited Chidambaram several times for three reasons.
· To meander through the Mangrove Forests of Pichavaram to the beach beyond.
· To visit, attend or give lectures at the Annamalai University.
· And to visit the Chidambaram Temple.

Meaning of the word Chidambaram

The word Chidambaram is derived from the two words ‘Chit’ meaning ‘consciousness’ and ‘ambaram’ meaning ‘sky’ (akaas) and signifies the sky of consciousness, which is the ultimate state one should attempt to attain.According to another version, the word Chidambaram is derived from Chitrambalam which is derived from two words ‘Chit’ and ‘ambalam’ meaning Stage for performing arts.

The Deity

Chidambaram Temple is unique because the main deity which is worshipped there is the Akash Linga or the formless form of Lord Shiva. Here, Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of ether (one of the five forms of matter) which has no form.As you can see on the left side of the photograph, there is no deity at all.The wall is covered with leaves of gold foil strung on strings. (Of course, there are a lot of other deities).

The Chidambaram Temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of Nataraja – the Cosmic Dancer.The beautiful image of Nataraja is extremely popular amongst artists.

History

We do not know much about the past of Chidambaram.But worship in this temple has continued uninterrupted since time immemorial.The Temple was definitely in existence in the 6th century A.D.Successive generations of the Chola, the Pallava and the Vijayanagar kings patronised the temple.The Chola King Aditya 1 started guilding a portion of the roof of the temple with gold.But the work was completed by his son.Mythology

A group of ‘rishis’ (saints) lived in the Thillai forests. They believed in magic and believed that even God could be controlled by rituals and ‘mantras’ or magical words.

Once, Lord Shiva was strolling through the Thillai forests in the form of ‘Pitchandanar’, a nude mendicant asking for alms.He had extraordinary beauty and radiance.He was followed by his consort. The wives of the rishis were enamoured by the handsome mendicant and his consort.

On seeing this, the rishis became angry and sent scores of serpents by performing magical rituals. Lord Shiva lifted the serpents and donned them as ornaments on his matted locks, neck and waist.

The enraged rishis sent a fierce tiger. Lord Shiva skinned it and tied its skin around his waist like a piece of garment. Still more infuriated, the rishis sent a powerful demon ‘Muyalakan’. Lord Shiva stepped on the demon’s back, immobilized him and performed the Ánanda thaandava (the dance of bliss or happiness).Then he discloses his true form. Only then, the rishis realized that Lord Shiva was beyond magic and rituals and surrendered to him.Govindaraja Shrine

The Chidambaram Temple complex also has a shrine of Govindarajaperumal (form of Lord Vishnu) and his consort Pundareegavalli Thaayar (form of Laxmi). It is rare to have shrines of both Shiva and Vishnu in the same temple.

Temple car

The Chidambaram Temple car is one of the most beautiful of temple cars in Tamil Nadu. This car is used to carry the statue of Lord Nataraja around the town twice a year.

The Gopurams

The temple has 9 gateways.Four of these have towering ‘gopurams’ or pagodas each with 7 levels in the East, South, West and North. The eastern gopuram has sculptures depicting all the 108 postures (karnams) of Bharat Natyam – an Indian form of dance.

Reaching there

Chidambaram is 240 km south of Chennai and about an hour’s drive from Pondicherry.There are plenty of trains from Chennai.The road is also very good.
The coast is about 11 kms from Chidambaram.

Recommendation

The temple complex spreading over 40 acres is full of exquisite statues.There is the Shivganga, the traditional tank.Chidambaram is also worshipped as the temple of Nataraj – the Cosmic Dancer.There is an annual dance festival.The top most Indian dancers deem it a privilege and honour to perform here.

Nataraj, the image of the Lord Shiva in the dancing pose has been copied all over the world.

All the major temples in Tamil Nadu are administered by the Government. Chidambaram is the sole exception.The huge temple complex looks like an undefeatable fort and has been used as such.

You can visit the Annamalai University, which pioneered the concept of distance education in India.
You can also visit the Pichavaram Mangrove Forests.

The western most of Adi Shankaracharya’s Four Dhams

Plato first mentioned ‘Atlantis’ in his dialogues Timaeus and Critias writtenin 360 B.C.
For unknown reasons, Plato never completed Critias.
According to Plato, “Atlantis, lying “beyond the pillars of Heracles”, was a naval power that conquered many parts of Western Europe and Africa 9,000 years before the time of Solon, or approximately 9,500 B.C.
After a failed attempt to invade Athens, Atlantis sank into the ocean “in a single day and night of misfortune”.Scientists and researchers agree that there was no such island as Atlantis.
Atlantis was a piece of sheer imagination.
But the ancient Dwarka has far too many similarities to the imaginary Atlantis.
This cannot be pure coincidence.Dwarka is about 4000 years old.
Plato wrote about Atlantis only around 360 B.C., that is, much later.
I think the only plausible explanation for the striking similarities is that Plato heard about Dwarka and based his imaginary Atlantis on Dwarka.

Dwarka

The present day Dwarka is a city in Gujarat state in Western India.
The name Dwarka has come from the Sanskrit word “Dwar” meaning door.
Once upon a time, if you were coming from the West, Dwarka was the gate way to India.
Today, Hindus regard it as a gateway to Heaven.The legendary city of Dwarka was the dwelling place of Lord Krishna.
It is believed that due to damage and destruction by the sea, Dwarka submerged under the sea six times; and the modern day Dwarka is the seventh city to be built in the area. The Dwarkadhish Temple

The word Dwarkadhish comes from Dwarka and Dhish meaning Lord of Dwarka.
The temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna.
The city is believed to have been built by Vishwakarma, the celestial architect.
And the ancient temple was built by Sambha, the grandson of Lord Krishna.The present temple built around the 16th century has a five storey tower.
It is made of limestone and sand.
The structure of the temple is quite complicated.
A 24 metres (84 ft.) long, multicolored flag, decorated with the symbols of the sun and moon, is hoisted on the temple tower every day.
It majestically flitters in the air welcoming the pilgrims. The temple has two gateways:
· Swarg Dwar (Door to Heaven), through which pilgrims enter, and
· Moksha Dwar (Door to Salvation), through which the pilgrims exit.
From the temple, one can see the sangam (confluence) of Gomati River and the Arabian Sea.

World Famous Ratha Yatra

Jagannath Puri, or simply Puri, is one of Adi Shankaracharya’s Char Dhams (or Four Places of Pilgrimage) located in the four corners of India. The other three are: Badrinath in the North (Himalayas); Dwarka in the West; and Rameshwaram in the South.
Badrinath is located amidst the snowy peaks of the Himalayas. The other three are located on the shores of the seas around India.

Jagannath Puri is world famous for its unique Ratha Yatra (Chariot Procession).

Ratha Yatras, on a smaller scale, are simultaneously organised in several parts of India and even abroad.Fairs and melas are organised during the nine day festivities.In Kolkata (Calcutta), the fairs attract shops selling plant and pets.

When I was small, I loved to go to these fairs and purchase a few plants and pets.As a result, I have kept such unconventional pets as lizards, scorpions, snakes, python, deer and peacocks.And all this was possible only because my parents never objected or protested.I don’t remember ever being reprimanded for my pets and plants.They heroically suffered the less than normal whimsical fancies of their little son.

Origin of the Word Jagannath

The word Jagannath comes from two Sanskrit words Jagat (meaning universe) and Nath (meaning master).Jagannath, meaning Master of the Universe, is another name for Lord Krishna.The most famous and oldest Jagannath temple in India is in Puri, Orissa.Because of this temple, Puri is also known as Jagannath Puri.

Mythology

There are two mythological stories relating to the deity.

Lord Krishna appeared to his great devotee, King Indradyumna and ordered him to get his deity carved out of a log he would find washed out on the sea shore.King Indradyumna duly recovered the log and found a mysterious old Brahmin carpenter willing to carve the deity.The carpenter insisted that under no circumstance, he should be disturbed while he was carving the deity.The king anxiously waited outside his room.

When all sound stopped, King Indradyumna could not restrain himself any longer.He opened the door and entered the room.He found the deity half-finished and the carpenter gone.King Indradyumna was very upset because the deity had no arms and legs.

Ultimately, Narada Muni appeared and explained that the carpenter was Vishvakarma, the heavenly sculptor of the Gods; and the form of Lord Krishna, the king saw, was one of the forms of Lord Krishna.

According to the second story, the gopis (maids) were talking about the pranks of Krishna, and about their love for him.The gopis had instructed Subhadra (Krishna’s sister) to keep watch and warn them if Krishna came.But after some time, Subhadra became completely engrossed in the conversation.She did not notice Krishna and his brother Balaram approaching.The two brothers listened to the gopis’ talk.Their hairs stood on end, their arms retracted, their eyes grew larger and larger, and they smiled broadly in joy.That is why Jagannath, Balaram and Subhadra look the way they do.

The Temple of Lord Jagannath

There is some disagreement amongst experts about the exact period of construction of the present temple. Construction of the present temple was started in the 12th century A.D. by King Ananta Burman Chodaganga Deva, founder of the Ganga dynasty in Orissa.But he could not complete it during his lifetime.The construction was completed by his successor Ananga Bhima Deva III.

The temple is built in the Kalinga style of architecture.It consists of a tall shikhara (dome) housing the sanctum sanctorum (garba griha) where the deity is placed.A pillar of fossilized wood is used for placing lamps as offering.Singhadwara (lion gate), guarded by two guardian deities, Jaya and Vijayais, is the main gate to the temple.A memorial column, brought here by the Raja of Khurda from the Sun Temple of Konarak, known as Aruna Stambha, faces the main gate.The three deities – Jagannath, Balabhadra (Balaram) and Subhadra are worshipped inside the temple.

Only Hindus are allowed inside the temple.Even Indira Gandhi was not allowed to enter the temple.More recently, a Thai princess was not allowed to enter the temple.
But once a year, during the rainy season, usually in June or July, the deities are brought out in one of the most clourful processions any where in the world.

Ratha Yatra

This festival is known as Ratha Yatra (Chariot Procession).The three deities – Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra are taken out on three separate richly decorated chariots, resembling temple structures, through the streets of Puri so that everyone can see them.The largest chariot is that of Jagannath – 45 feet high and 35 feet square.It is supported on 16 wheels with a diameter of 7 feet.New chariots are built every year.The Rathas (Chariots) are pulled by the millions of pilgrims who come to attend the festivities.It is considered a privilege to pull the Ratha.The King of Puri takes part in the procession.He sweeps the path in front of Jagannath’s chariot.

The Ratha Yatra commemorates Lord Krishna’s return to his home in Vrindavan after killing Kansa.Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra (Balaram) and Subhadra are taken to their aunt’s temple (Gundicha Mandir) – a distance of 2 km from the temple.The deity remain on their chariots for the night.In the morning, they are installed in the Gundicha Mandir.They remain there for seven days.On the ninth day, they are placed back on their chariots and return to their temple.By this time, most of the pilgrims would have gone back.Labourers have to be hired to pull the Rathas.

What to see

Puri is an important town of Orissa.It is famous for the Jagannath temple.
Its sprawling wide beaches, fishing farms and the superb resorts make Puri a major holiday destination of Eastern India.

Recommendation

Visit the exotic sea beaches.Swim in the sea.Watch the fishermen catch their fish.

Puri belongs to the Golden Triangle Circuit of Orissa covering Bhubaneswar, Konarak and Gopalpur-on-Sea.You can visit these places as well.
Incidentally, the English word ‘juggernaut’ owes its origin to these huge chariots.