national park – An Indian Bureaucrat's Diary http://binoygupta.com Share the life time experiences of a retired Indian Bureaucrat relating to travel and nature Sun, 06 Jul 2008 04:34:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 Travel India Sariska Tiger Reserve http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/sariska-tiger-reserve-national-park-ranthambore-tiger-reserve-tiger-relocation-tiger-alwar-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-binoy-gupta-230/ http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/sariska-tiger-reserve-national-park-ranthambore-tiger-reserve-tiger-relocation-tiger-alwar-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-binoy-gupta-230/#comments Sun, 29 Jun 2008 11:26:05 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/sariska-tiger-reserve-national-park-ranthambore-tiger-reserve-tiger-relocation-tiger-alwar-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-binoy-gupta-230/ Read more ›]]>

Travel India.Sariska Tiger Reserve.TigerSariska Tiger Reserve in Alwar, Rajasthan has been
in the news for the past four years – unfortunately for
the wrong reasons.

Sariska Tiger Reserve

The Sariska Tiger Reserve (866 sq. kms.) was originally a hunting preserve of the Kings of Alwar in Alwar District in the state of Rajasthan.
The area was declared a wildlife reserve in 1955.
In 1978, it was declared a Tiger Reserve and is now a part of India’s
Project Tiger scheme.
It became a National Park in 1979.

The Sariska Tiger Reserve is larger than Ranthambore Tiger Reserve with similar topography, but is far less commercialized.

Sariska Tiger Reserve in the news


From the summer of 2004, there were persistent reports from people connected with tourism that no tigers were being sighted in Sariska Tiger Reserve in Rajasthan.
Even more alarming was the fact that there was no other contemporary evidence (pugmarks, scratch marks on trees, etc) indicating the presence of the tiger. The Rajasthan Forest Department shrugged off any suggestions about the complete absence of tigers with a simple explanation – “the tigers had temporarily migrated outside the Reserve and would be back after the rains”.
The Project Tiger authorities endorsed the Rajasthan Forest Department’s view.
In January 2005, Jay Mazoomdaar, an Indian Express journalist, broke the startling news that there were no tigers left in Sariska.
The Rajasthan Forest Department and the Project Tiger Directorate declared an “emergency tiger census” in Sariska and the Central Bureau of Investigation conducted a probe.

After a two months exercise, every one finally conceded that Sariska Tiger Reserve did not have any tiger left.

Relocation of Tigers to Sariska


But what is much more interesting, and cause for happiness for environmentalists, is that for the first time in India, the Rajasthan Government have decided to relocate tigers into the Sariska Tiger Reserve from the neighbouring Ranthambore Tiger Reserve.
On 28th June 2008, one three and a half year old, male tiger, weighing 220 kgs., was tranquilised in Ranthambore Tiger Reserve and flown into Sariska Tiger Reserve (200 kms.) in an Indian Air Force helicopter.
The tiger has been temporarily kept in a 100 metres x 100 metres enclosure to help it get acclimatised in the new surroundings.
A four year old female, weighing 170 kgs., was flown in from Ranthambore on the 4th July 2008.
It has been kept in a separate enclosure.
After the pair settle down, the door of the enclosure would be opened and the tigers would be allowed to wander off into the wilds.
Sariska has a rich prey base, and environment quite similar to Ranthambore Tiger Reserve.
It should be easy for the tigers to re-establish themselves.

If everything goes on well, and there is no reason why it should not,
within two years, three more tigers will be relocated to Sariska.
Relocating tigers to a new habitat is being tried out in India for the first time.
If successful, this will revive the tiger population at Sariska and open up fresh opportunities to save the majestic tiger.

The ProblemsTravel India.Sariska Tiger Reserve.Sign Board

Most likely, the disappearance of the tigers in 2004 was due to poaching. The other major hurdles are: 
·         11 villages in the core area;
·         Heavy traffic on a portion of the Jaipur-Alwar highway that passes
        through the Sariska Tiger Reserve; and
·         Heavy traffic to the ancient temple at Pandupole – in the core forest –  22 kms. from the entrance.The authorities have already shifted one village.
Each relocated family has been paid a generous compensation of Rs 10 lakhs (earlier this was only Rs. 1 lakh).
Three more villages will be shifted soon.

The traffic on the stretch of the Jaipur-Alwar highway passing through the Sariska Tiger Reserve has already been diverted via a bye pass.
Efforts are on to minimize traffic to the Pandupole temple by pursuasion.

Adverse impact on Ranthambore Tiger Reserve

There is no fear of the number of tigers in Ranthambore being adversely effected.
In fact, Ranthamore has 34 tigers and their numbers are fast increasing.
It has actually become necessary to relocate some tigers.
Moving them to Sariska is the best decision.

Satellite Surveillance

There has been some criticism that relocation of tigers has always failed, and that the relocated tigers would die.
The relocated tigers are being fitted with radio collars and their movement will be constantly monitored through satellite.
The collars, costing Rs 8 lakh each, have been purchased from a Canadian firm, Lotek.
The satellite is operated by the Argos system, supported by Nasa (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (US)), and the French space agency, CNES.
The Argos system is already monitoring more than 4,200 animals worldwide.
The radio transmitters send out information in short pulses.
The pulses are picked up by the satellite which retransmits them to the Argos centres for processing.
The radio tracking will help wildlife authorities keep effective track of the movement of each tiger and prevent poaching.

Vegetation

The landscape of Sariska comprises of hills and narrow valleys of the Aravali hills.
The vegetation is scrub-thorn arid forests, dry deciduous forests, rocks and grasses.

Other Animals

Some of the other animals in the Reserve include the leopard, jungle cat, hyena, jackal, chital, sambar, carecal, langur, wild boar, four-horned deer (chowsingha) and several species of birds.In the morning and evening, the animals in Sariska head towards the many water holes, which litter the park, providing the guests their best chance of viewing animals.It is possible to book hides situated in prime spots for wildlife viewing at some of these watering holes.
What to see aroundTravel India.Sariska Tiger Reserve.Neemranan Fortress

There are temples, forts and ruins in and around Sariska.
There are historical buildings associated with the Maharajas of Alwar such as the Sariska Palace (the royal hunting lodge of the former Maharaja of Alwar State Jai Singh).
The Kankwadi Fort (located near the centre of the Sariska Reserve)  has a long history.
In the 17th century, Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb briefly imprisoned his brother Dara Shikoh here in the battle for succession to the Mughal throne.
There are ancient temples, such as the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple and Garh Rajor temples dating back to the 9th and 10th centuries.

Location


Sariska Tiger Reserve is situated 200 km from Delhi and 107 kms from Jaipur.
It covers an area of 800 sq km in total, with a core area of approximately 500 sq. kms.

My own view

I am delighted that the Wildlife Institute of India and officers of Rajasthan Forest Department are jointly and actively involved in this experimental project.
But there is no excuse why the two set ups could not detect the complete absence of tigers much earlier ….. and continued giving out lame explanations. Unfortunately, this is not the first relocation attempt of tigers.
In 1928, Maharajah Lakshman Singh of Dungarpur ordered the first successful relocation of a pair of tigers from the forests of Gwalior to the forests of Dungarpur where they had all been killed by hunters.
The tiger population gradually increased to 25 in 1947.

But once again, there are no tigers left in the forests of Dungarpur.
And remember, there were no radio collars, no helicopters and all the back ups available and used today.

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Travel India Jaisalmer http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/jaisalmer-desert-sam-sand-dunes-fort-desert-national-park-camel-trekking-camping-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-198/ http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/jaisalmer-desert-sam-sand-dunes-fort-desert-national-park-camel-trekking-camping-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-198/#comments Sun, 11 May 2008 03:44:44 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/jaisalmer-desert-sam-sand-dunes-fort-desert-national-park-camel-trekking-camping-an-indian-bureaucrats-diary-travelogue-on-india-198/ Read more ›]]>                                        

Travel India.Jaisalmer.Fort
 

The Golden City 



Where would you go if you wanted to see sand, desert and sand dunes in India?
The best place is Jaisalmer – in the middle of Thar Desert in Rajasthan.JaisalmerThe small town of Jaisalmer, nicknamed “The Golden City” – because this is what the town looks like – stands on a ridge of yellow sandstone on top of the Trikuta Hill.
It is crowned by a fort, which contains the palace buildings and beautiful Jain temples.
Even today, a fourth of the population live within the Fort.
Many of the houses and temples are beautifully sculpted. 

History

According to legend, Lord Krishna told Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav clan would build his kingdom on top of Trikuta Hill.


In keeping with this prophesy, Rawal Jaisal, a descendant of Yadav clan, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. 

Deoraj, a famous prince of the family known as ‘Bhati’ family, is considered to be real founder of the Jaisalmer dynasty. He adopted the title of Rawal.
Rawal Jaisal, the sixth in succession from Deoraj, founded the fort and city of Jaisalmer in 1156, and moved over to Jaisalmer from the former capital at Lodhruva (situated about 15 kms to the south-east of Jaisalmer).
Jaisalmer, meaning “the Hill Fort of Jaisal”, was named after him.
 
The first siege of Jaisalmer took place in 1294 during the reign of Alauddin Khilji.
Alauddin Khilji was angered by Bhatis’ raid on a caravan filled with treasure.
Alauddin Khilji’s army captured and sacked the fort and the city of Jaisalmer.
For quite some time, Jaisalmer lay deserted.
We do not know what happened during the next decades.
Next, we find Rawal Sahal Singh, who acknowledged the supremacy
of the Mughal emperor
Shah Jahan.The major opponents of Jaisalmer rulers were the powerful rulers of Jodhpur and Bikaner.
They used to fight for the possession of
forts, waterholes or cattle.Jaisalmer was strategically positioned as a halting point along a traditional trade route used by camel caravans commuting between Indian and Asian markets. The main source of income of Jaisalmer were the levies on the caravans.
However, the importance of Jaisalmer declined when
Bombay emerged as a port, and sea trade replaced the traditional land routes.
The partition of India in 1947 led to the closing of all trade routes through the Indo-Pak border.  
But the skirmishes between India and Pakistan gave Jaisalmer a strategic importance and it became an army supply depot.
Later, the Rajasthan Canal revived the surrounding desert areas.
And the Government built roads and railways, knitting the remote Jaisalmer with the rest of
Rajasthan.

What to seeJaisalmer Fort 

From its 250 feet high vantage point on the hill, the Fort stands vigil over the surrounding desert.
Its massive walls follow the contours of the hills.
The Fort has five interconnected palaces with intricate ‘jaali’ screens and beautiful ‘jharokhas’.
Steep cobblestone pathways passing through the four gates lead to the royal palace.
The sharp twists and turns make the fort invincible.

Jain Temples

Inside the fort, there are four Jain temples, dedicated to Rishabdevji Sambhavnathji and Parshvanathji. The Parshvanathji Temple is the oldest and the most beautiful of all.
Human and animal figures are carved on the walls of its sanctum.
The dome or ‘shikhar’ is  crowned by an amalak and a water pot containing a lotus flower.

Gyan Bhandar or Library 

The Jain temples have a library containing some of the oldest manuscripts of India.
 

Gadsisar Lake

Excavated in 1367 by Rawal Gadsi Singh, the Gadsisar is a beautiful rainwater lake surrounded by small temples and shrines.This lake has a beautiful arched gateway.
Today, it is an ideal picnic and boating spot. 

Havelis

There are a number of beautiful Havelis in Jaisalmer.

Salim Singh-ki-Haveli This was once the residence of the Mohta family, ministers of Jaisalmer rulers. 

Patwon-ki-Haveli – This five haveli wonder is the grandest mansion in Jaisalmer.
Its ceilings are supported by exquisitely carved pillars and the balconies are delicately chiselled.

Nathmalji-ki-Haveli  This was carved by two brothers.
One worked from the right side and the other from the left.
But the entire construction is harmonious.

Places to see around Jaisalmer

Lodurva (16 kms)

The former capital of Jaisalmer rulers is an  important pilgrimage centre  for Jains.
An architectural masterpiece of Lodurava is the ‘Toran’ or ornate arch at the main entrance with its exquisite carvings.
‘Kalpatru’, or the divine tree, is another great attraction.

Sam Sand Dunes (42 kms)

The not to be missed thing to see in Jaisalmer are the sand dunes.
The shifting ripples on the sand dunes, caused by the wind, some as high as 150 feet, constantly create and recreate new designs.
They are the photographer’s delight.
Various cultural programs are  organised against the backdrop of these fascinating dunes.
A lot of Hindi films are shot around the sand dunes.
If you are fond of adventure, you can go out on a camel safari – in the desert on camel back.
 

Wood Fossil Park (17 kms)

This park, on the Barmer Road, takes  you back to the Jurassic period.
You can see 180 million year old fossilized trees.
 

Desert National Park

This 3162 sq. kms. vast Biosphere Reserve lies to the south-west of Jaisalmer. 
This is one of the largest National Parks in India, but very different from the ones we are accustomed to.
Here you can see sand dunes.
You can see the Indian Gazelle, Chinkara and a lot of birds.


You can see the rare and endangered
Great Indian Bustard in relatively large numbers.
This bird migrates locally in different seasons.
There are a lot of other
migratory and resident birds – eagles, harriers, falcons, buzzards, kestrel and vultures. Short-toed Eagles, Tawny Eagles, Spotted Eagles, Laggar Falcons and Kestrels.
You can see the
Sand grouse near small ponds or lakes.The best time to visit the wild life is between November and January.However, the three day Desert Festival in February is unique.
You can see and hear folk dancers swing to the enchanting folk music under the full moon.
You can watch the unique turban tying contest and the Mr. Desert contest.

Reaching there

Air

The nearest airport is Jodhpur (285 kms).

Rail

Jaisalmer has a railway station and is connected with Jodhpur by night train.

Road

Jaisalmer is well connected by good roads with all the major cities of India.

Distances

Ahmedabad (626 kms)
Bikaner 325 km Pokaran (112 kms) 
Jaipur (558 kms)
Jodhpur (285 kms Via Pokaran) 
Mumbai (1177 kms)
New Delhi (864 kms)

Recommendation
 
Satyajit Ray, the famous Indian film director, wrote a detective novel based on this fort.
He later made it into the film –
Sonar Kella (The Golden Fortress).
Jump to: navigation, search Every house in Jaisalmer is exquisitely carved, having filigree work all over.
Most of the houses date back to the 12th to 15th centuries.
And hence, Jaisalmer is also called ‘the Museum city’. 
Surrounded by desert, sand and sand dunes, Jaisalmer is truly a
different experience.

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Travel India Ranthambore – the land of the Tiger http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/ranthambore-the-land-of-the-tiger-national-park-47/ http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/ranthambore-the-land-of-the-tiger-national-park-47/#comments Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:45:18 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=47 Read more ›]]>
An Amalgam of Antiquity and Nature


How about a vacation under the shadows of one of the oldest fort in India – with tigers for company at breakfast and tea ?
Ranthambore is the place I selected.

History


The magnificent Ranthambore Fort is one of the oldest forts in India. The Fort was built by the Kachhwaha Rajputs (Chauhans) but there is no certainty about the time and who the actual founder was. Some historians tell us that it was built by King Sapaldaksha in 944 A.D. Others historians say it was built by King Jayant of the same dynasty in 1110 A.D. There are other historians who give the credit to some one else.

The Fort was at its zenith during the rule of Rana Hamir Dewa who became king in 1283 A.D. The earliest authentic literature about Ranthambore is the Hamirraso, which chronicles the reign of Rana Hamir Dewa during the 13th century.Alla-ud-din Khilji defeated Rana Hamir Dewa. Alla-ud-din Khilji was in turn defeated by the Rajputs. Akbar defeated the Rajputs in 1528. In the late 17th century, the Mughals handed over the Fort to the Maharaja of Jaipur who ruled the place from the magnificent Amer Fort, not far away, till our independence.

The Fort is majestically perched on a table land at an altitude of slightly over 700 feet. It is surrounded by virtually inaccessible fortified walls. The massive walls, having a circumference of seven kilometres, enclose an area of four and half kilometres. Inside the fort are palatial living quarters, barracks, temples, and even mosques. From the living quarters, you get a fabulous view of the Padam Talao (one of the several man made lakes inside the Park). You see crocodiles lazing on the bank of the lake; flocks of deer and other animals drinking water; and a lot of birds.

There is a spring in the Fort, the Guptaganga, which is a perennial source of water. From the Fort, you can see miles and miles all around. It is impossible to approach the area unseen. This explains why this place was selected for the Fort. As if to make the entry still more difficult, the Fort is strategically located in the middle of the Ranthambore National Park.
This is one of the few forts and monuments anywhere, where there are no guides and no entry fee.

National Park

The Ranthambore National Park, which surrounds the Fort, is famous for its tigers. The tigers here have provided the world with ninety five percent of all published photographs of tigers. Ranthambore forest was the private hunting resort of the Maharaja of Jaipur. It was declared the Sawai Madhopur Wildlife Sanctuary in 1955.

But the Maharaja of Jaipur was permitted to hunt in the Sanctuary till the 1970s. Hunting was totally stopped in 1970. The sanctuary, covering an area of 392 square km, was included in the Project Tiger in 1973. Ranthambore was, and remains, the smallest of the 28 Tiger Reserves in India (originally only nine). Ranthambore attained the status of National Park in 1980. In 1984, the adjoining forests were declared as Sawai Man Singh Sanctuary and Keladevi Sanctuary.

In 1991, the Project Tiger was extended to Sawai Man Singh Sanctuary, Keladevi Sanctuary and Kualaji Game Reserve – effectively extending the area of the Tiger Reserve to 1334 square km. The difference between a National Park and a Sanctuary under the Indian laws is that no human activity is permitted inside a National Park, while limited activities are permitted inside a Sanctuary. Moreover, National Parks receive more financial support from the Central Government.

Paradoxically, creation of private hunting reserves by the Royalty have contributed to the preservation of wildlife and forests. The reason is that Royal families could go there for hunting only about once a year and only very special guests were invited. Poachers were afraid of trespassing into Royal properties. Royal punishment was far too severe and swift.In 1960, the Maharaja of Jaipur invited Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth – II and her consort, His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, for a royal hunt. This created some controversy.The Fauna Preservation Society of London referred the matter to Late E P Gee. Gee commented ” the tiger is not a protected species in India and the shooting of the tiger by the royal party will be just the same as shooting a stag in Scotland and therefore should not be frowned upon”.

This place had been lost in the pages of history – till Prime Minister late Rajiv Gandhi spent seven days, including the night of 1986-87, here.
He stayed in Jogi Mahal, the two and a half century old beautiful Forest Guest House, which was closed to the public in 1992.Rajiv Gandhi fell in love with this unique place and a new eco-development project was taken up at his initiative. Rajiv Gandhi resurrected Ranthambore from the pages of history back onto the prominent tourist itinerary of India.
On 23rd March 2000, President Bill Clinton, and his daughter Chelsea, visited the Ranthambore National Park. Two of the tigers – Bambookhan, the largest male, and a female, gave private audience to them. They were thrilled.

My first tiger sighting

Tigers are found only in Asia. There were about 50,000 tigers a hundred years back. By 1970, their numbers dwindled to about 2000. The Project Tiger, which is one of the most ambitious and successful wildlife projects, was launched in 1973. Their numbers are increasing.

I had never seen a tiger in the wild. So when I decided to see and photograph one, I selected Ranthambore. I saw seven tigers in three days. My trip was a success.You can move inside the park only in authorized open Canters (mini-buses) or open jeeps. These are permitted to take only one of the seven pre-selected routes. The idea is that not more than two vehicles should ply on the same route at the same time.

During my three day stay, I went inside the Ranthambore National Park on three evenings. I traveled in an open Canter. We would start at 3.00 P.M. We had to leave the Park by sunset (6.30 P.M.). The monsoons had failed for three consecutive years. Everything was dry and parched. During the time we travelled inside the Ranthambore National Park, the blazing sun would be gliding down the horizon. It would still be very hot. But it would also be time for thirsty animals to quench their thirst at the few water holes.

On the first day, we sighted three tigers – a mother and her two cubs. They lay fast asleep sprawled higgly piggly about 15 metres from each other. They were at quite a distance from the road and partly hidden amongst trees and shrubs. I did take some photographs.

The second day, our guide pointed towards our right. A large tigress suddenly appeared. She moved parallel to the road. Three vehicles followed her. She took no notice. She entered a shallow pool of water. Everyone was ecstatic. Cameras clicked. We tumbled all over the vehicle, and over each other, to get better shots. The bathing tigress simply ignored us.Our vehicle reversed and took up position on the road a little distance away. Soon a young tiger came and sat down on the road in front of the vehicle. A younger tiger came and sat down on the ground a little to our left. These two were actually the offsprings of the bathing tigress.The bathing tigress appeared to our right and walked towards her cubs. She crossed the road and started calling. First, the smaller one on the left, and then the one on the road, joined her. The three disappeared into the forest.The third day, our guide took us to a place where a pair of tigers had killed a sambar a couple of days ago. The tigers had eaten the sambar. We waited near a water hole. I looked down and recognized a pug mark on the ground (the first I saw and recognized) just next to the vehicle. A tiger had crossed the road a short while ago and should be back.Soon, a young tiger crossed the road from our rear and lay down on the ground a short distance away. Our driver reversed the vehicle and parked it in front of the tiger. The tiger ignored us and merrily rolled about on the ground while we clicked away.

Tigers need plenty of food. There are 10,000 cheetal (spotted deer), 8000 sambar (the largest Indian deer), 3000 neelgai (the largest Indian gazelle – also known as blue bull), plenty of wild boar – sufficient food to comfortably sustain a sizeable population of tigers.In 1991, there were 45 tigers in the Ranthambore National Park. But poaching took its toll. The numbers declined. The surviving tigers became extremely wary. And it became difficult to sight a tiger. Things have improved. There are 36 tigers. And they are not afraid of humans.

Thanks to the efforts of people like Fateh Singh Rathod, the first Field Director of the Ranthambore National Park, who has devoted his entire life to the welfare of the tigers and the local villagers, poaching has virtually stopped and the population of the tigers is steadily increasing.

Other animals

There are plenty of other animals as well. Leopards. Sloth bear. Gazelle, etc. I also saw jackals, mongoose and crocodiles. Numerous Langurs. I did not see a single Rhesus monkey.
There were several species of birds, too.
I also met Radha – a young neelgai who had been orphaned when she was very small. She had become accustomed to humans and muzzled up close to us and licked all over our faces and hands asking for eatables. Unfortunately, we had none.

The National Park is full of Dhak (Flame of the Forest) trees.
There were large tracts of Dhak trees crowned with brilliant vermilion red blossoms which gives the trees the name Flame of the Forest.

The three lakes

There are three large lakes in the Ranthambore National Park. Numerous migratory birds come here for the winter. But the monsoons had failed for three successive years. All the lakes were almost dry. The result was very few migratory birds.I expected to see large numbers of crocodiles and turtles. I was told that these creatures can sense water from a long distance, and when the water becomes scarce in any place, they move away to other water holes, usually at night.
I saw one turtle on its painful journey to some other water hole.

Why Ranthambore

In India, you can see tigers in 28 reserves. Why I chose Ranthambore ? The rules for visitors are far more rigid in Ranthambore than in most other tiger reserves. Only a limited number of approved vehicles are allowed inside the National Park. Every vehicle is allotted a specified route and only two vehicles are allowed on any particular route. All the vehicles must exit the Park by 6:30 P.M. These rules are strictly enforced.

The villagers have willingly relocated to areas outside the National Park and they have accepted the tiger as an integral part of their lives. There are several Non Government Organisations working here to save the tiger. As a result, the tigers here have become fearless and accustomed to human presence. If you are fond of nature, photography or history, you will love this place.Do carry a good camera, a good tele lens, and plenty of film.

Getting there

Nearest airport – Jaipur (180 km)
Nearest Railway Station & Town (on the Delhi Mumbai route) – Sawai Madhopur (10 km)

Best Season 

September to March. April and May are hot, But the trees are barren and few water holes have much water.
Animal sighting is ideal.

Accommodation

Plentiful – from the budget type to the high end.

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Gir National Park http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/gir-national-park-31/ http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/gir-national-park-31/#comments Sun, 17 Feb 2008 12:29:00 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=31 Read more ›]]>



Only place in the world where you can see the Asiatic Lion in the wild

The only place in the World where you can see the Asiatic Lion (Panthera leo persica) in its natural habitat today is the Gir Forest located in Junagarh district in the State of Gujarat in Western India.

The Asiatic Lion

Until a hundred years ago, the majestic Asiatic Lion roamed over large areas extending from Greece, through West Asia, Delhi, Bihar and Bengal.

Just to give you an idea of the large numbers – fifty lions were killed in the district of Delhi between 1856-1858.

But the killing took its toll.

The last Asiatic Lion seen outside Gir Forest in India was in 1884.
Of course, lions can be seen in plenty in Africa.

But they are not the Asiatic Lion, but their close relative, the African Lion.

The Asiatic Lion is a genetically distinct sub-species that separated from the African population of Panthera leo about 100,000 years ago.
The Asiatic Lion has an average length of 2.75 metres.

Compared to its African counterpart, it is about 0.3 meter shorter, has a lighter mane, thicker tail tassel, bushier elbow tufts and more prominent belly folds.
The Asiatic Lion avoids human beings.

It can jump over 5 metres.

Of all the wild animals, it is the only animal which kills only when

hungry and attacks humans only if it is starving.

Unlike its African cousin, the Asiatic Lion never feeds on carrion.

It is the truly the king of the wild.

On the brink of extinction – role of the Nawab of Junagadh

Since 1884, all the Asiatic Lions are localized in Gir Forest, the private hunting preserve of the Nawab of Junagadh.

The famine of 1899 almost decimated the lions.

In 1900, the Nawab of Junagadh invited Lord Curzon, then Viceroy of India, for a lion hunt.

This invitation provoked an anonymous letter in a newspaper in which the writer questioned the propriety of a VIP hunt of the endangered species.

Lord Curzon not only cancelled the hunt, but also requested the Nawab to protect the endangered lions.

The Nawab in turn declared the lion a protected animal.
By 1913, the population of lions in Gir Forest had dwindled to less than twenty.

As a protective measure, the British Government imposed a total ban on the shooting of lions.

The number of lions gradually increased.

By 1949, the number of Lions in Gir Forest rose to about 100.

Gir National Park
The Goverment of India established the Gir National Park on 18th September, 1965 as a Forest Reserve to conserve the Asiatic Lion.

The original area of the Gir Forest was about 5000 sq. kms.

Today, the sanctuary covers a total area of 1,412 sq. kms. of which the core area of 258.71 sq. kms. is the Gir National Park.

There is a surrounding buffer zone to monitor and regulate the spill over.
Present Status


There are about 320 Asiatic Lions in the Gir National Park today.
There were 13 poaching deaths during the first quarter of 2007 raising serious concerns about the safety and future of the species.
Occasionally, the lions travel outside the park boundaries in search of food and water, get caught in poachers’ traps and die.

Other animals in Gir Forest

There are other animals like Flying Fox, Hare, Hyena, Hedgehog, Jackal, CheetalChinkara , Chowsinga (four-horned antelope), Civet, Mongoose, Musk Shrew, Nilgai (Blue Bull), Pangolin, Panther, Porcupine, Ratel, Sambar, Wild boar, etc.

Three smaller wild cats – the Jungle Cat, Desert Cat and the Rusty Spotted Cat are also found there.

There are many species of snakes, lizards and crocodile.
There are more than 300 species of birds including the Crested serpent, Bonnalis and Crested Hawk eagles; Brown Fish and Great Horned Owls; Pygmy Woodpecker, Black Headed Oriole and the Indian Pitta.

Vegetation

Gir Forest is one of the few remaining forests comprising diverse habitats.

The vegetation is mixed deciduous, with Teak, Acacia, Jamun, Tendu and Dhak trees, with large open patches of grasslands.

For most part of the year, Gir Forest is dry with scrub trees and therefore animal sighting is very good.

Other places to see

· Hot springs in Tulsi Shyam deep inside the forest – 96 kms. from Sasan.
· Famous Somnath temple – 45 kms. via Veraval.
· Sirvan – 13 kms. from Sasan. This is a unique village where you can see Siddi tribals of African origin.
· Kamleshwar Dam – 12 kms. away is a beautiful picnic spot.There is a Crocodile Farm here with a large population of marsh crocodiles.
· Interpretation Zone at Devalia -12 kms. from Sasan. This is a fenced lion area covering 412 hectares. You can see lions and other animals in their natural habitat here.
Best Time to Visit
Gir Forest can be visited from mid October to mid June.

But the best time for sighting the lions is November to February.

The sanctuary remains closed during the rainy season.

Getting there

Air
The nearest airport is Keshod – 90 kms. via Veraval.

There are daily flights from Mumbai.
Rail
The nearest railway station is Sasan Gir (1km).

Sasan Gir to Ahemedabad – 395 kms. (metre gauge railway)

Road
From Ahmedabad (via Rajkot, Junagadh and Mendarda) – 400 kms.

My views
Asiatic Lions are classified as Critically Endangered in the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. International trade in Asiatic Lions or their parts is completely banned.

Yet their claws and bones are in great demand for use in traditional Chinese medicine.

And therefore, the lions are in great danger.

Apart from this, in 1994, canine distemper killed more than 1,000, or about a third, of Africa’s Serengeti lions.

The same or similar calamity could occur in Gir Forest due to lack of genetic diversification.

The Government is thinking of translocating a few Asiatic Lions from Gir Forest to Kuno-Palpur Wildlife Sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh so as to have another habitat.

But unfortunately, the issue has become entangled in political mire.
The Gir Forest is a unique and wonderful place to visit.

Not only have the number of lions increased, the population of other animals have also increased several fold.

There are numerous human settlements of cattle herders called Maldharis within the sanctuary. And they don’t have any problem with the animals.

You can see a perfect example of man and nature living in complete harmony.

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Travel India Bandhavgarh National Park http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/bandhavgarh-national-park-3/ http://binoygupta.com/travel_india/bandhavgarh-national-park-3/#comments Wed, 23 Jan 2008 18:02:57 +0000 http://binoygupta.com/?p=3 Read more ›]]>

Land of the White Tiger

Have you ever wondered where white tigers come from?

Almost all of them, the world over, owe their origin to the forests around Bandhavgarh.
And they are the progeny of a single male white tiger – Mohan who was captured there in 1951.

Bandhavgarh Forests and National Park

The forests around Bandhavgarh (in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh in central India) were the Shikargah, or private game preserve, of the Maharajahs of Rewa.
Only the Maharajahs and their guests could hunt there.

Poachers were severely punished.
The forests contained unbelievably large number of animals.
Just to visualize the enormity – it was considered auspicious for a Maharajah to shoot at least 109 Tigers.
His Highness Maharajah Venkat Raman Singh shot 111 tigers by 1914.

After independence and abolition of the Maharaja’s rule, there was too much uncontrolled poaching in the forest.
In 1968, the Maharaja of Rewa handed over the forest to the Government of India for creation of the Bhandavgarh National Park.
In 1968, Bandhavgarh was declared a National Park.
Originally, it had an area of only 105.40 sq. kms. with 25 tigers.
In, 1986, the area was increased to 437 sq. kms.
Bandhavgarh was declared a Tiger Reserve in 1993.


White tigers

White tigers have been found in the old state of Rewa (and other parts of India) from time to time.

These white tigers are not albinos.

They are ordinary tigers (Panthera tigris) with a genetic condition that eliminates most of the pigment in the normally orange fur – although the tigers still retain the dark stripes.
Compared to the normal orange tigers, white tigers are larger in size, both at birth and when they become adults.

Mohan

Mohan is the father of the progeny of white tigers of Rewa.
(Another breed of white tigers has originated in Orissa.
A few other white tigers have been born in some other places of India.)

Mohan was captured as a cub in 1951 by Maharaja Shri Martand Singh of Rewa, whose hunting party found a tigress in Bandhavgarh with four 9 month old cubs, one of which was white.
They shot all the tigers, except the white cub.
After shooting a white tiger in 1948, Maharaja Martand Singh had resolved to capture a live one, as his father had done in 1915, at the next opportunity.
The previous Maharaja had kept the white tiger, an unusually large male, in captivity from 1915 to 1920.
After its death in 1920, the Maharaja had it mounted and presented it to King George V.
The mounted white tiger is now on display in the British Museum.


Maharaja Martand Singh named the white cub Mohan (meaning enchanter), one of the many names of the Hindu God Krishna.
Successive selective breeding produced a progeny of white tigers.White tigers are considered a celebrity and Prime Ministers have often christened them.
Mohan is dead.

His stuffed body is on display in the palace of the Maharajah of Rewa.

Animals in the Sanctuary

Bandhavgarh National Park is like a bowl surrounded by the Vindhya Mountains.
A series of ridges run through it.
Its plains have a number of grass and reed covered wetlands where you can see plenty of resident and migratory birds.


The Park has 32 picturesque, wooded hills, where you can see plenty of animals.

The principal animal is the majestic tiger.

The chances of sighting one are quite good because the density of the tiger population here is the highest in India.


There are more than 25 species of other animals, including leopard, gaur, sambar, chausingha, nilgai, chinkara, spotted deer, sloth bear, wild pig, striped hyena, jackal, fox, dhole, ratel, small Indian civet, jungle cat, palm squirrel, grey mongoose, lesser bandicoot rat, langurs and rhesus macaque.

Jungle Safaris

There are two ways of travelling inside the park – in a motor vehicle or on elephant back. Although most of the animals are accustomed to both – while inside the forest, speak softly and do not make rapid, jerky, movements.


Jeep safaris should be taken either in the morning from dawn to about 10 am or from about 4 pm till dusk, because the animals are most active during these periods.

A forest Department guide will always accompany you to direct you towards wildlife.
Elephants belonging to the Forest Department take visitors every morning for tiger tracking.If a tiger is sighted, the elephant will take you directly to the tiger.

Birds and Reptiles

There are more than 250 species of birds including little grebe, egret, lesser adjutant, sarus crane, black ibis, lesser whistling teal, white-eyed buzzard, black kite, crested serpent eagle, black vulture, Egyptian vulture, common peafowl, red jungle fowl, dove, parakeet, kingfishers and Indian roller.
There are a variety of snakes – cobra, krait, viper, rat snake and python, There are also a number of species of lizards and turtles.

Vegetation

The vegetation consists of Sal forests and Bamboo.
Stretches of grasslands stretch to the north.
Mixed forests are found in the higher slopes of the hills.
There are patches of wet lands, too.

Places to see

Bandhavgarh Fort
The historic Bandhavgarh Fort commands a bird’s eye view of the entire National Park.
There are no authentic records to show when it was built.
There are references to it in ancient texts, like the Siva Puran.
The Fort is believed to be over 2000 years old.
Various dynasties have ruled from the fort.

For example, the Mauryans ruled from 3rd century B.C., Vakataka rulers from 3rd to 5th century, the Sengars from 5th century and the Kalachuris from the 10th century.
In the 13th century, the Baghels took over, ruling from Bandhavgarh until 1617, when Maharaja Vikramditya Singh moved his capital to Rewa. The last inhabitants of the Fort left it in1935.

The Caves
There are 39 caves in the Bandhavgarh Fort and in the surrounding hillocks in a radius of about 5 kms.
The oldest cave dates back to about 1st century.
Several caves carry inscriptions in Brahmi script.
Badi Gufa, the largest cave, has a broad entrance, nine small rooms and several pillars.
It has been dated back to the 10th century.
The cave appears to be primitive, lacking the usual elaborate statues and carvings seen in other Buddhist caves of the period.
Its purpose remains a mystery.
You could also visit Khajurao, Agra and Varanasi.

Fact File

Air
The nearest airport is Jabalpur 164 kms.
Another convenient airport is Khajurao 230 kms.
From both these places, you can go by car or public transport.

Railway Stations
The nearest railway station is:
Umaria – 32 kms.

Other stations are:
Jabalpur – 164 kms.
Katni – 102 kms.
Satna – 120 kms.

Road

Khajuraho (via Satna) 230 kms.
Varanasi (via Rewa) 340 kms.
Katni 75 kms.
Rewa 115 kms.
Umaria 30 kms.
Kanha 250 kms.
Public transport is available from all these places.

Accommodation

Bhandavgarh National Park park is a wildlife enthusiast’s dream.
There are excellent accommodation and internal transport facilities to suit all budgets.

Best time to Visit

The climate at Bandhavgarh varies from 0 to 20 degree centigrade in winter and hots up to 46 degrees centigrade in summer.
The monsoon (rainy) season mostly begins mid June till October.

The best time to visit Bhandavgarh National Park is between December and February.
But the months of April to June, when the vegetation is sparse, are really the best for tiger sighting.

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