Mahabalipuram

Site of a lost City

On 26th December 2004, the killer Tsunami waves struck the shores of Mahabalipuram. When the waters receded, there were rumours that they had left behind some statues, rock carvings and remains of what could be the work of human hands.
All this stirred up expectations. Once again, archaeologists, historians and scientists began wondering whether there indeed was an ancient city which now lies buried under the sea.
The Archaeological Survey of India and the Indian Navy have just completed joint underwater excavations for this year. Alok Tripathi, a Deputy Superintending Archaeologist from the Archaeological Survey of India, and leader of the expedition team, told the media that the Tsumai had given Mahabalipuram a lot of publicity but nothing in terms of archaeology.

History

The ancient town of Mahabalipuram was a flourishing sea-port during the days of Periplus (1st century A.D.) and Ptolemy (140 A.D.). Many Indian colonists travelled to South-East Asia from this port town. Apart from these facts, we do not know much about the history of ancient Mahabalipuram. There are too many missing links in its history. And we do not know why almost all the monuments are incomplete.
The major attractions of Mahabalipuram include 14 rock cut cave-temples called mandapas, 9 monolithic shrines called rathas, 4 sculptured relief rock panels and the famous Shore Temple.
These structures were built by three successive Pallava Kings who developed the Dravidian style of temple architecture within the short span of a hundred years.
King Mahendravarman (600-630 A.D.) laid the foundations of elaborate rock cut cave-temples. The Dhramaraja Mandapa was built by him. Even at that time, Mahabalipuram was an important pilgrimage centre.
King Mahendravarman’s son, Narasimhavarman I (630 to 688 A.D.), who was called Mahamalla, started the Mahamalla style of temple architecture which consists of free standing monolithic structures. Most of the monuments at Mahabalipuram – the monolithic rathas, sculptured scenes on open rock faces like Arjuna’s Penance, the rock cut cave-temples of Govardhanadhari and Mahishasuramardini, the Jala-Sayana Perumal temple (the sleeping Mahavishnu at the rear part of the Shore temple complex) were built by him.
Narasimhavarman I’s son, Narasimhavarman II (700 to 728 A.D.), who came to be known as Rajasimhan, started masonry constructions. The magnificent five-storied Shore Temple on the sea beach was built by him and is one of the finest examples of Dravidian masonry temple structure. Narasimhavarman II also constructed the Kailasanatha temple in Kanchipuram during the 8th century. The Shore Temple was the last work of Pallava dynasty.
Mahabalipuram is one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites and is a popular tourist spot in India. Numerous foreign and Indian tourists come to Mahabalipuram in search of history, relaxation and sea bathing.

Name of the site

During the 7th century A.D., the place was known as Mahamallapuram (City of the Warrior King) after King Mahamalla (meaning Great Warrior), an honoric name of King Narasimhavarman I (630-688 A.D.), who created most of the monuments. The word Mahamallapuram was first corrupted to Mamallapuram, and then to the present Mahabalipuram.
Ever since the first western visitor wrote about the place in the 16th century, Europeans have called the place Land of the Seven Pagodas (land of seven temples).

The Shore Temple

The Shore Temple was built by Narasimhavarman II (Rajasimha) and is one of the earliest masonry temples in Tamil Nadu.
It stands on the edge of the Bay of Bengal. At high tide, the waves sweep into its compounds. The walls and their sculptures have been battered and eroded by the winds and waves for thirteen hundred years. Yet they stand intact.
There are three shrines in the Shore Temple. The one facing the sea and another facing west towards the township are Saiva (Lord Shiva). The one between the two is Vaishnava (Lord Vishnu) with an image of Lord Anantasayi made of rock. There are Vimanas (a kind of temple structure) over the Saiva shrines, but none over the third. Probably, it has disappeared with time.
There are Somaskanda (depicting Lord Shiva and Parvati) reliefs on the walls of the Saiva shrine. In front of the eastern shrine is a stone Dhvajastambha (flag post), frequently under the waves. The light on top of it must have served as the last glimmer of homeland for thousands of citizens immigrating to South East Asia.The Dhvajastambha and the Balipitha (sacrifical altar) normally stand in front of the main shrine. Here they are located west of the shrine. There was a Prakara here with small nandis (bulls) on its walls. Some of the nandis still stand on what little remains of the walls.
The sea is an ever-present danger. A semi-circular groyne wall has been built to the east.
Parts of the temple were buried under the sand. Colonel Colin Mackenzie (1754 to 1821), a military officer and surveyor of the East India Company, dug them out. Mackenzie produced many of the first accurate maps of India. He was an art collector and orientalist. In 1799, he took part in the battle of Srirangapatnam, where Tipu Sultan was defeated.
There is an old legend here that originally there were seven temples. Of these, six have been swallowed by the sea. Only one temple – the Shore Temple – has remained. There are evidences of submerged structures under the waves. Sporadic excavations are going on. But it is too early to say whether there really was a glorious city and six more temples which now lie submerged under the waves off the coast off Mahabalipuram.

Arjuna’s Penance
Largest relief sculpture in the world

There are two low hills in Mahabalipuram about 400 metres from the sea.
On both sides of the larger one are eleven excavated rock cut cave-temples called mandapas; two open air bas reliefs – one unfinished, and a third enclosed one. And a monolithic shrine, called a ratha, sculptured out of a big free standing rock nearby.
The surface of the larger hill consists of two large boulders measuring 29 metres by 13 metres, with a fissure in between. The two surfaces (southern and northern face) and the fissure contain some of the most exquisite relief carvings in India.

The beautifully carved 29 x 7 metres rock on the southern face, known as Arjun’s Penance, is the largest bas relief sculpture in the world. It is named after the figure of an ascetic standing on one leg performing severe penance. The current view is that the ascetic is Arjuna, hero of the epic Mahabharata, doing penance to Lord Siva to obtain from him a celestial weapon to use in the impending war against the Kauravas. However, some experts believe that the figure is actually Bhagiratha praying to Siva to let the river Ganges flow down to the earth.
Near the ascetic is Lord Shiva, with his attendants. Immediately below them is a small shrine with a relief sculpture of Lord Vishnu inside. By its side are many seated sages in meditation.
Other carvings on the rock are of animals and heavenly beings witnessing the descent of the Ganges from the Himalayas and episodes from the Panchatantra tales.

Elephant sculptures

On the northern face are carvings of huge elephants. These are the finest elephant sculptures in India. There is a cat pretending to perform penance, waiting to pounce upon unfortunate unsuspecting rats. There are also a lion, a tiger and a boar. In the upper part of the surface are rows of semi-divine beings flying towards the fissure. Close by, is a beautifully carved monkey picking lice from the head of another. This was not sculptured here but brought from the nearby Mukunda Nayanar temple.
A little distance to the south is an unfinished attempt of the very same scene on another boulder. Probably, the maker of the first bas relief tried his skill here first.
In the cleavage are carvings of a serpent god and a serpent goddess. The fissure indicates a river. It is believed that during the Pallava days, water actually flowed down the cleavage from the hill behind because there are remains of what could be a water tank.
There is a third bas relief depicting Lord Krishna protecting the people of Brindavan from Indra’s wrath by interposing a mountain. Strangely, there are a few small sphinxes and gryphons at the edges of the huge composition. During the Vijayanagar times, a Mandapa was built in front of what originally was an open-air bas relief.
On top of the bigger hill is a structural temple. At a little distance are the beginnings of a magnificent Vijayanagar Gopura and remnants of a palace.

The Five Rathas

Out of the other hill, much smaller and standing about 200 metres to the south, were fashioned five beautiful rathas, and three beautiful sculptures of a nandi, a lion and an elephant.
The word ratha means chariot – but this is an incorrect expression for these structures because the rathas are not chariots, but really Vimanas. These five rathas have been named after the five Pandavas of Mahabharata – Dharmaraja; Bhima; Arjuna; Draupadi; and Sahadeva and Nakul (one ratha named after the two brothers Sahadeva and Nakul). But once again, they have no connection with the Pandavas of Mahabharata.
From the largest part was made Dharmaraja, the biggest of the five rathas. Then proceeding towards the north, in descending order of height, were made Bhima, Arjuna and Draupadi. Sahadeva and Nakul was made out of a comparatively large rock a little to the west of Draupadi.
Two smaller rocks in front of the Draupadi were sculptured into an elephant and a lion. Behind Draupadi and Arjuna, which stand on a common base, is a nandi.
There are some superb sculptures on Dharmaraja and Arjuna. The former contains splendid divine and secular portraits, with labels beside some of them. The latter are certainly kings, but it is difficult to identify them. There are some lovely royal couples on Arjuna. Again, it is impossible to say who they are.
Draupadi is the ratha dedicated to Goddess Durga. Her mount, Lion, stands right in front of the ratha.
We do not know the purpose of building the rathas. It is believed that early temples were made of perishable materials. Some one probably decided to preserve these styles for posterity and built the rathas in stone. There is nothing like these rathas anywhere else in India outside Mahabalipuram (except in Kazhugumalai – in Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu).
These sculptures show how beautiful, delicate and sensitive Pallava sculpture was, making it one of the greatest schools of Indian art.

Four other rathas

Apart from these five rathas, there are four more rathas in Mahabalipuram taking the total to nine. Among themselves they represent four different styles: the apsidal, the barrel vaulted, the domical and the hut. The first two styles are comparatively rare and the last very much so. The third style was to become the main style in future.The rathas with the domical sikhara are the Dharmaraja, the largest of them all; the Arjuna, a smaller version of the first; the Pidari and the two Valayankuttai – these three located elsewhere in Mahabalipuram.
The Bhima and Ganesa, near the larger hill, are barrel vaulted. Sahadeva is apsidal. Draupadi is hut shaped. Not a single monument in Mahabalipuram is complete. Probably, there was a school of sculpture here in the ancient days. This would explain the existence of probationary and incomplete sculptural and architectural efforts all over the place.

Mahishamardhani and Adivaraha mandapas

Of the many excavated rock cut cave-temples in Mahabalipuram known as mandapas, the two best are the Mahishamardhani and the Adivaraha.
The Mahishamardhini temple has been excavated in a rock on the eastern side of the top of the hill. There are three shrines in the Mahishamardhani Mandapa. A small mandapa projects forward from the central shrine.
On the northern and southern walls of the Ardhamandapa facing each other, are great sculptural reliefs of Goddess Durga fighting the demon and of Lord Vishnu in His cosmic sleep. The energy with which the young Goddess Durga goes to war with the buffalo headed demon is in magnificent contrast with the cosmic sleep of Lord Vishnu on His serpent couch.
These two are the finest sculptural reliefs known to Indian art. Both are connected in their common scriptural source becauses the incidents are from two consecutive cantos of the Devi Mahatmyam.
Right above it is a structural temple and a lighthouse which functioned for decades until a new lighthouse was erected close by. Near the Mahishamardhani temple is a smaller rock where an unfinished attempt at excavating a fane has been made.The Adivaraha temple also has two groups of royal sculptures, also facing each other. In one, a king is seated with two queens flanking him. In the other, a king is standing with his two consorts by him. There are many opinions but it is generally thought that the seated monarch is Simhavishnu (574-600) and the standing one his son and successor, Mahendra I (600-630). There are, besides, reliefs of many divinities.
Besides, the temple here is the only one in Mahabalipuram (apart from the Sthalasayana Perumal) where worship continues today, but fitfully.

Sthalasayana Perumal Temple

Immediately to the north of the bigger hill is the Perumal Sthalasayana temple where worship continues to this day. There was a temple here from pre Pallava times. But the present temple is a result of many enlargements made by Vijayanagar rulers.

Dance festival

Mahabalipuram was a renowned centre of arts and culture during the Pallavas. The Department of Tourism, Government of Tamil Nadu, organizes a highly acclaimed Mahabalipuram Dance Festival every year.
The Dance festival starts on Christmas day every year; and is conducted on all Saturdays and Government holidays right up to the first week of February. Dancers and musicians of repute from India and abroad thrill the crowds every year. Indian folk dances are an added attraction.
How to get there
Mahabalipuram is only 58 km from Chennai – a pleasant one hour drive from Chennai.
AirChennai (58-km) is the nearest airport with both domestic and international terminus. Chennai is connected with all the major places in India through the numerous domestic flights. International flights operate from various parts of the world to Chennai.
RailThe nearest railway stations are Chennai (58-km) and Chengalpattu (29-km). From these stations one can travel by road to Mahabalipuram.
RoadFrequent buses are available from Chennai, Chengalpattu, Pondicherry, Kanchipuram, etc. The road to Mahabalipuram is good. Taxis are also available.
Accomodation: There are plenty of accommodation to suit all budgets. Or you could stay in Chennai.

More temples under the sea?

A British traveler J. Goldingham, who visited Mahabalipuram in 1798 wrote about certain ancient legends. Once upon a time a large city stood here. This city was so beautiful that the Gods became jealous and sent a flood that swallowed up the entire city in a single day. Even today, the local fishermen and priests talk about seven temples – of which six were submerged under the waves leaving the seventh temple still standing on the seashore. This is the reason sailors called Mahabalipuram Land of the Seven Pagodas.
On the basis of these legends that in remote times a great flood in the area inundated the ancient city and the local fishermen’s pointing towards a series of large submerged structures, the best-selling author Graham Hancock in his book Underworld and Channel 4 television series Flooded Kingdoms of the Ice Age proposed a theory that there was a submerged city in the area.
In April 2002, a joint team from the Dorset based Scientific Exploration Society (SES) and marine archaeologists from India’s National Institute of Oceanography (NIO) undertook some archaeological diving and discovered submerged ruins – a series of structures off the coast of Mahabalipuram – that clearly showed man made attributes. Graham Hancock dived with the expedition. The submerged ruins are spread over several square miles at distances of up to a mile from the shore and at depths of 5 to 7 meters (15 to 21 feet).
Mahabalipuram was recently ravaged by the killer tsunami. In March 2005, a team of divers from the Indian Navy and Archaelogical Survey of India carried out extensive exploratory work in the area with INS Darshak, a hydrographic survey vessel, providing administrative support.
They again found structures buried in the sea off the coast of Mahabalipuram that show evidences of human activities.
Archaeologists say they have found stone blocks and pottery under the sea, and are examining whether the site is that of the fabled temples that went under water.
“Some of the rocks we found under sea bore definite signs of human activities. We have already found remnants of a temple offshore. This new finding is not in isolation and we will have to compare and correlate it with the onshore structures,” said Alok Tripathi, Deputy Superintendent of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
“We have recovered artefacts and structures which resemble the shore temple, during the expedition which lasted more than three years”” Vice-Admiral, Sureesh Mehta, Deputy Chief of Naval Staff, told reporters here.
But a lot of underwater archaeological work is required to assess the nature and full significance of these underwater structures.

Conclusion

Mahabalipuram has a lot of things that makes a site memorable.
The rock cut cave temples, the rathas and the Shore temple are a few of the oldest temples in South India. If you are fond of archaeology, history, temples, simple sight seeing, or are fascinated by tales of cities lost long ago, visit Mahabalipuram.
If you are a connoisseur of music and dance, come to Mahabalipuram during the Dance festival. Sit before an open-air stage created 13 centuries ago. Treat yourself to the unique and unforgettabe aesthetic event. Witness Indian dances – Bharathanatyam, Kuchipudi, Kathakali and Odissi, presented by the best exponents of the art besides folk dances.
All this amidst the mystical ambience created in the neighbourhood of sculptures built by the Pallavas and the soft lapping of the waves.

Aihole, Badami and Pattadakal
The Chalukyan Temple Architecture

WHO designed the first Hindu temples? Who constructed them? Where were they built? What were they made of? Why did successive rulers make them more and more magnificent? These are some interesting questions relating to temple architectural history.

Indo-Aryan Nagara style of architecture
One comes across three principal types of temple architecture that were prevalent in different parts of India around the same period. Between A.D. 320 and A.D. 650, the Gupta Kings started building temples in North and Central India in what is known as the Indo-Aryan Nagara style of architecture.

The Dravidian style of architecture
In the south, kings built temples in the Dravidian style. One finds the earliest surviving Dravidian temples near Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram, 60 km south of Chennai). These were built around A.D. 500. This style flourished for centuries and reached its zenith when the massive structures in Madurai and Rameswaram were built, around A.D. 1600.

The Chalukyan style of architecture
The Chalukyan style originated in Aihole around A.D. 450 and was perfected in the neighbouring villages of Badami and Pattadakal (all in Bagalkot district of Karnataka). Chalukyan artists experimented with different styles, blended the Indo-Aryan Nagara and Dravidian styles, and evolved their own distinctive style. One can see magnificent examples of their earliest works in Aihole, Badami and Pattadakal. These certainly are not the earliest temples. Temples were constructed centuries before the 4th and 5th century A.D., but with wood and bricks and have not survived.
The massive temples in South India today give the impression that there were no large temples in North and Central India. There were, in fact, big temples in North and Central India, too. But repeated invasions, pilferage and destruction over the years devastated most of them. Thus, we do not find in North and Central India the equals of the grand temples of South India which was comparatively free of frequent foreign invasions and enabled successive rulers to add to the work of their predecessors.

Aihole, Badami and Pattadakal
THE Chalukya rulers of Vatapi (as Badami was then known) ruled the central Deccan from A.D. 540 to A.D. 757. They were great patrons of art and architecture. They have left behind a wealth of temple architecture in Aihole, Badami and Pattadakal. Since these areas do not lie on the major tourist routes and are not well-connected with the major cities, they have not received the prominence they deserve.
The architectural style that developed in this part is known as the Chalukyan style (to distinguish it from the Dravidian style, more common to Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, and so on). Why did South Indian rulers build temples of such magnitude and why did their successors make continuous additions to the work? Certainly not solely because of their faith in religion.
Perhaps they wanted to overawe their enemies and subjects with an enormous show of wealth and power, represented by these temples. Or perhaps they wanted to impress their subjects with a show of love for the religion. Or perhaps they wanted to atone for the sins they had committed by killing innumerable innocent people in the bloody wars they fought. The temples were built by teams of architects, artists, sculptors and masons, who remain anonymous.

Aihole
Aihole, a small village on the banks of the Malaprabha river, was the cradle of ancient Hindu temple architecture. There are over 70 temple structures scattered around the village. These structures clearly show the experimentation with different styles undertaken by the artisans. It was here that the artisans worked on the rocks to create the earliest rock-cut shrines based on Buddhist monuments.
It was here they experimented with different styles, abandoning some and adopting others. From the earliest rock-cut shrines, the artisans graduated to the full-fledged Chalukyan style of architecture.
Ravana Phadi is one of the oldest rock-cut temples in Aihole. There is a Sivalinga in the inner room (cella or sanctum sanctorum, where the idol of the deity is kept). The walls and sides of the temple are covered with large figures. The sculptures are superb – especially that of dancing Siva.
The Huchchimalligudi temple is one of the earliest in Aihole. A significant feature of it is the addition of a room to the old temple structure, which had only an inner room and a hall. The room was added between the sanctum sanctorum and the hall.
One of the most impressive temples here is the Durga temple, which dates back to the 7th century A.D. This is actually a Hindu adaptation of the Buddhist Chaitya Hall with a rounded end. The temple has perforated windows and a statue of Mahishasuravardhini – Goddess Durga destroying the demon Mahishasura. This was constructed in a new style, but subsequently abandoned.
The Lad Khan temple was also built around the 7th century A.D. It is a unique temple, with a surprising resemblance to the Parliament House. It is believed that this structure was not meant to be a temple but a meeting place.

Badami
Badami is now a small town located at the mouth of a ravine between two steep hills. It was the original capital of the Chalukya empire founded by Pulakesin I in the 6th century A.D. Here are four beautiful rock-cut temples carved out of sandstone hills. Each has a square sanctum, a hall with pillars, and a pillared verandah. The halls have exquisite carvings and sculptures.
Of the four temples, the fourth is actually a Jain temple. It has a statue of Mahavira.

Among the masterpieces in these rock-cut temples is the famous 18-armed statue of Nataraja (Siva in the dancing pose). If one observes it closely, one will see Nataraja in 81 different dancing poses.

Pattadakal
Pattadakal is another small village on the banks of the Malaprabha. This place was considered to be very auspicious and holy. The Chalukya kings were crowned here.
During the middle of the 7th century, temple building activity shifted from Badami to Pattadakal. There are 10 temples here, four in the northern or Indo-Aryan Nagara style and six in the Chalukyan style. Here one finds an intermingling of the two styles. A look at the Pampanath temple shows its disproportionate dimensions. The height is much too low. This style, too, was abandoned.

The Mallikarjuna, and the larger Virupaksha, temples were built around A.D. 740, by Trailokyamahadevi and Lokamahadevi, the two queens of Vikramaditya II, to commemorate their husband’s victory over Nandivarman, the Pallava king of Kancheepuram. Vikramaditya II brought artisans from Kancheepuram. The Virupaksha temple clearly shows the influence of the Kancheepuram style.

Levels of Architecture
Guides will tell tourists that if Aihole is considered a school of architecture, Badami was a degree college, and Pattadakal, a university of architecture.

World Heritage Site
In 1987, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) included Pattadakal in its list of World Heritage sites.

Belur & Halebid

A must-see for all students of architecture, history and fine arts

I have visited numerous temples in India. But the temples of Belur and Halebid built by the Hoysala kings are unique.


Some one has written that “the Hoysala temples are to South Indian architecture, what the Parthenon is to Greece and the Pyramids to Egypt”. The Hoysala kings were great temple builders. During their rule (1000 AD to 1346 AD), 1,500 temples were built in 958 locations.
History
Today, Belur and Halebid are two insignificant towns 16 km apart in Karnataka (South India). But during the 11th to 14th centuries, these two towns were the glorious capitals of the Hoysala kings, who came to power around 1000 AD after defeating the Chalukya kings.
The Hoysala kings were able rulers and ruled for almost three and a half centuries.
Belur, located on the banks of the River Yagachi, was the original capital of the Hoysala kings. The capital was shifted to Halebid (formerly known as Dwara Samudram (Gateway to the Ocean).
But Muslim armies invaded Halebid in 1311 AD and again in 1327 AD razing the grand capital into shambles.
The capital was shifted back to Belur.
Temples in Belur
Chennakeshava (meaning handsome Vishnu)
The most beautiful temple in Belur is the Chennakeshava temple.

King Vishnuvardhana, the most illustrious Hoysala king, started construction of this temple in 1117 AD to commemorate his victory over the Cholas at Talakad that year.
The construction of the temple took more than a century and was completed after 103 years by Vishnuvardhana’s grandson Veera Ballala II.
The main entrance is guarded by two identical statues of a youth killing a tiger.
I walked around and inside the temple and marveled at the thousands of the most exquisite sculptures and statues of elephants, horses, lions, swans, depictions of mythological events, and scenes from the Indian epics.
The ceilings and walls of the temple are full of intricately carved images and figures of birds, animals, and dancers in various shapes and postures. Scenes of important episodes from the Hindu epics are depicted here.

Beautiful, highly polished, pillars turned on lathe, adorn the Navranga Hall.

Each pillar is different.

These statues have unrivalled, unimaginable, fluidity which makes them vibrant and almost alive.

I also saw statuettes displaying all forms of modern-day fashions and different hairstyles including ponytails, a variety of ornaments, skirts, Bermudas, shoes, and slippers.

The statues of the 42 ‘madanikas’ or celestial dancers were inspired by Queen Shantaladevi, who was the very epitome of voluptuous beauty. She was the Indian counterpart of Queen Cleopatra.
The Hoysala architects were so meticulate for detail and perfection in their art, that the earrings of the dancers actually rotate and beads of perspiration glisten in the hairs of some.
I saw some students making sketches of these carvings and statues.

These places are a must-see for all students of architecture, history, and fine arts.
As I entered the temple, the temple priest had just started the puja.

Surprisingly, daily worship continues in the Belur temple even today making it one of the oldest living temples in the country.
Temples in Halebid
There are two beautiful temples in Halebid – both dedicated to Lord Shiva.
The idols are in the form of Shivalinga (the phallic form of Lord Shiva).
Both temples have large monolithic statues of Nandi (Lord Shiva’s bull) facing the entrance,
The first temple is the Hoysaleshwara Temple.

Its construction was started by the Chief of Staff in 1121 AD.

Although construction continued for 87 years, the temple was never completed.
The other temple – Kedareshwara Temple – was built almost two centuries later – in 1319 AD.
On my journey back, as I drove down to Hassan, I reminisced on what great travellers, historians, and architects had written about these places.
They have highly praised the statues.

Many have described them as masterpieces and gems of Indian architecture.
These statues are made of steatite which is initially soft and easy to

work with, but gradually hardens with prolonged exposure.
Uniqueness of these temples
One unique feature of these temples is that they have been constructed on star-shaped bases unlike the normal square-shaped bases of most Indian temples.

Belur temple stands on a single star base while the Halebid temple has a twin star base.
Another unique feature is that unlike other temples where the artists do not leave

their names, the artists and sculptors of Hoysala have broken away from tradition and

signed their sculptures.

They have engraved their names, titles and even the place of their origin at the foot of their creations.

We know that Jakkanna Achari was the Chief architect of these two temples.
Originally, these temples had the typical high tower above the main temple that fell or were removed.
Accommodation
Belur and Halebid both are small towns having small hotels offering only basic amenities.

It is therefore better to stay in Bangalore, Mysore or even Hassan.

Getting there
Air

The nearest airport is Bangalore. 222 kms from Belur.
Train

The nearest railway station is Hassan. 34 kms from Belur.

Road

Bangalore to Belur 222 kms. 4 hours drive.
Belur to Halebid 16 kms.
Belur to Hassan 34 kms.
Belur to Hospet 330 kms.
Belur to Mangalore 124 kms.
Belur to Mysore 149 kms.

Suggestions

There are also a number of ancient Jain temples around because the earlier

Hoyshala kings were Jains.
Do visit these temples.

When you visit these places, do hire a trained guide.

He will take you on a timeless journey into history.

Oldest living City in the World

Varanasi (also called Benares) is the oldest living city in the world.
I lived and worked in Varanasi for two years, but that was over 25 years ago.

After that, I have visited Varanasi on and off.

Varanasi has changed, as all modern cities have, for the worse.
In those days, we lived in a small apartment, close to Dasashwamedh Ghat, the most popular ghat (bank) of the river Ganges.

We used to drop our two sons at the bus stop for their school bus to pick them up, walk down to the Ganges river every morning, stroll along the ghats (all the ghats are connected to each other) and meander through the narrow lanes bordering the river.

The morning walks used be really fascinating.

We would pass small shops selling all kinds of colourful merchandise.

Bulls sitting or standing in the narrow lanes completing blocking the way.

But they neither disturbed any one nor felt the least disturbed when any one pulled them or pushed them to one side to pass through.

Lots of temples, pundits (priests), devotees, pilgrims, tourists and mere idlers like us.
The most fascinating thing about Varanasi was that no one seemed to be in a hurry.

Everyone had plenty of time to stand and stare and enjoy life.

Even many of those who had to go to office, ritually went to the river every morning, did some exercises, had an oil massage, took a dip in the holy river and visited one of the numerous temples.

So deep was this practice imbibed in many, that if they were in Varanasi, it was impossible to wean them away from this morning ritual.

For them, this was the most essential part of life.
Once we had a very strange experience.

My wife fell sick for quite a few days.

We could not go down to the river.

Then a strange thing happened.

It suddenly started raining.

And the river started swelling.

The area started getting flooded.

The river crossed its banks and came right up to the place where we stayed.

For some time, we sat with our feet immersed in the water.

After that, the water gradually receded.

This could be pure coincidence.

But someone had predicted that since we were not able to go to the river, the river would come to us.
History

There is no doubt that Varanasi is a very ancient town. It is much older than Rome.Old Rome has gone down the pages of history.

But Varanasi has not only survived, but prospered.
According to mythology, Varanasi was created by Lord Shiva.

We find mention of Varanasi in the epic Mahabharata and in our ancient scripture Skanda Purana.
Buddha arrived in Sarnath on the outskirts of Varanasi in 500 BC.

Even then it was a prosperous city.
The original name of Varanasi was Kashi from the word ‘Kasha’ meaning bright.

The present name is a combination of two words – Varuna and Assi, the two rivers on the north and south of Varanasi.
Even now, many Hindus believe that if they die in Varanasi, they will reach Heaven.

There are a number of old homes whether the aged come to live and spend their last days.

Culture
Varanasi has given the world its unique style of classical Hindustani music and has produced such eminent poets, writers and musicians as Kabir, Ravi Das, Munshi Premchand, Jaishankar Prasad, Acharya Ram Chandra Shukla, Pandit Ravi Shankar, Hariprasad Chaurasia and Ustad Bismillah Khan.
Tulsidas wrote his Ramcharitmanas here.

Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath.
What to see
Temples
Varanasi is a city of temples.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the shrine of Jyotirlinga, is the most sacred shrine of Lord Shiva in India.

The original temple was destroyed by Emperor Aurangzeb who built a mosque in its place.

The present temple was rebuilt near the mosque in 1780 by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore.

In 1839, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the ruler of Punjab, donated gold to guilt the two domes of the temple with gold.
The Ghats

There are several interconnected ghats along the river.

Visit them in the morning or evening.

You will sense the fervour of the place.
Gyan Vapi Mosque

This mosque was constructed in the 17th century on the old temple by Emperor Aurangazeb.
Banaras Hindu University

The sprawling Banaras Hindu University is a great centre of higher education.

It is the largest residential university in India and the only university with a Hindu temple inside.

Man Mandir
The old palace of the Maharaja of Jaipur with a astronomical observatory.
Sarnath (10 kms from Varanasi)

Buddha gave his first sermon here.

The 110 ft. tall Damekh Stupa marks the place where Buddha preached his first sermon.

Later, Mauryan Emperor Ashoka erected magnificent stupas and other buildings and the famous stone pillar.

This place is visited by Buddhists from all over the world.
Reaching there
Air

Varanasi has an airport with direct flights from New Delhi, Kolkatta, Mumbai and other places.
Rail

Varanasi is an important railway station.

The city is linked by trains with all metros and major cities across the country – New Delhi (760 Kms.), Mumbai (1509 Kms.), Kolkatta (735 Kms.), Chennai (1970 Kms.), Lucknow (286 Kms.).

Road

Varanasi is connected with all the major cities by good motorable, all-weather roads.
Best Season
Varanasi is hot in summer.

The best time to visit Varanasi is between September and November because Varanasi celebrates a lot of festivals during this period.

Recommendation

Visit the oldest living city in the world.

Perhaps you will share the same feeling which brought Gautam Buddha to this place.

Varanasi is famous for its silk zaree saris (silk saree embroidered with pure gold thread) and woollen carpets.

But purchase from a respectable shop.

Varanasi is equally famous for its cheats.

The City of Temples
and the Gate Way to the South

I have visited the 2500 old Madurai City many many times.

The Meenakshi Temple is the largest and most beautiful temple dedicated to any female deity in India.

Madurai is also the gateway to a number of tourist places in South India – such as Rameshwaram, Kanyakumari, Kodai Kanal and Yercaud.

Madurai is the headquarters of the world famous Aravind Eye Hospital, which is doing outstanding philanthropic work in the field of eye care.

And the hi-so Taj Hotel located on a vantage spot here is really affordable.

History
Madurai is the second oldest city in India after Varanasi.

There are chunks of missing periods in its history.

In the 3rd century B.C., Madurai was a flourishing city under the Pandya kings who ruled till the 10th century A.D. when it was captured by the Cholas.

The Cholas ruled from 920 A.D. till 1223 A.D., when the Pandyas regained their lost kingdom.

In April 1311 A.D., Malik Kafur, the General of Alauddin Khilji – the ruler of Delhi, raided Madurai and robbed the city’s precious stones, jewels and other rare treasures.

In 1323 A.D., Madurai became a province of the Delhi empire.

In 1371 A.D., the Vijayanagar dynasty of Hampi captured Madurai.

Nayak Rule
Vijayanagar rulers appointed Governors known as Nayaks or Nayyakars to administer their distant territories.

By 1545 A.D., the Nayaks of Madurai became more autonomous.

After the Vijayanagar empire collapsed in 1565 A.D., the Nayaks established the Nayak dynasty which remained in power up to the 1740s.

Rani (Queen) Mangammal (1689-1704 A.D.) of the Nayak dynasty was an able and courageous ruler.

She bravely fought against foreign invaders.

Her successors were weak rulers.

The kingdom broke up after her.
The Meenakshi Temple
Most visitors come to Madurai to see the Meenakshi temple.
In fact, Madurai city was originally built around the Meenakshi temple.

Concentric rectangular streets were built around the temple.

And they were named after the Tamil months of Aadi, Chithirai and Maasi symbolizing the structure of the cosmos.
The original temple was built by the early Pandya king Kulasekhara to enshrine the Shiva Linga, which according to mythology was worshipped by God Indra.

Most of the old temple was destroyed by the Muslim invaders and later rebuilt by Hindu rulers.

The Meenakshi temple is dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi (a form of Parvati).

There is also a sanctum for Sundareshwar (or Siva), her consort.

In keeping with Indian tradition, where the husband commands greater respect than his wife, the Sundareshwar (or Siva) shrine is larger and older; but Meenakshi is worshipped first.

Devotees enter the temple through the South Gopuram (southern tower) and worship Goddess Meenakshi before worshipping her consort.

The temple is a treasure trove of beautiful statues.

The statue depicting the Wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswara is considered a masterpiece.
The Temple Complex is breathtaking.

It has massive fort-like walls encirling an area of 640,000 square feet (60,000 m²) with four major lofty Gopurams facing the four directions.

Each Gopuram is sculptured with more than a thousand painted figures of Hindu gods, animals and mythological creatures.
The Thousand Pillar Mandapam (1000 pillars hall) is the ‘wonder of the temple’.

For unknown reasons, there are actually 985 pillars in the 1000 pillars hall.

Each pillar is beautifully sculptured.

There is a Temple Art Museum in the 1000 pillars hall where you can see historical and archaeological exhibits.
Just outside the 1000 pillars hall, towards the west, are the Musical Pillars.

Each pillar, when struck with a spoon, produces a different musical note.

There are a number of shops inside the temple complex selling an assortment of things. But you must learn the subtle art of bargaining.
Potraamaraikkulam or the Golden Lotus pond

When you enter the temple, you see the spectacular Potraamaraikkulam (meaning the Golden Lotus pond) surrounded by corridors depicting murals from the Thiruvilaiyaadal Puraanam (episodes of Sundareswar ).
In ancient times, the sangam, or assembly of poets, used to gather at this pond to judge the merits of new compositions, often by throwing the manuscripts into the pond itself.

Those that sank were supposed to be inferior, while those that floated were worthy of praise and propagation.
Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal

Thirumalai Nayak (1623-1659 A.D.) was a very popular ruler.

He created many magnificent structures in and around Madurai – the Raja Gopuram of the Meenakshi Temple; the Pudu Mandapam and the Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal (Palace).

The Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal, located in Madurai, was constructed in the Indo-Saracen style in 1636 A.D.
There were originally two parts – the beautifully decorated, Swarga vilasa (heavenly repose) meant for the King, his harem and housing the darbar court; and the Rang vilasa,which was for the commoners.

Most of Rang vilasa was demolished by Thirumalai Naicker’s Grandson.
Only about a fourth of the original structures remain today.

The Palace is a national monument under the care of the Tamil Nadu Archaeological Department.

There is a sound and light show in the evening (both in English and Tamil).
Madurai has a large number of beautiful temples.

This is the reason it is known as the “Temple City”.
Kazimar Periya Pallivasal or Kazimar Big Mosque

The Kazimar Periya Pallivasal or Kazimar Big Mosque is located within a kilometre of the temple.

Hazrat Kazi Syed Tajuddin, who came from Oman during late 12th century, obtained this land from king Ku Pandiyan and constructed the mosque – the first Muslim place of worship in Madurai.

His descendants (Huqdars – Share holders of that mosque called Syeds) have lived in the same locality for 700 years, and managed the mosque ever since.

Syed Tajuddin was appointed as Kazi of the sultans; and till now, his descendants who live in Kazimar Street are appointed as Kazis to the Government of Tamil Nadu.
Aravind Eye Hospital

The Aravind Eye Hospital here is a peculiar world class institution rendering free eye care services to an unbelievably large number of patients.

It is a model even students of management are trying to take lessons from and emulate.

It is fondly called the MacDonalds of Eye Surgery.
The Taj Hotel

The Taj Hotel is linked with luxury and expensiveness.

But the Taj Hotel here is affordable.
Getting there

There are direct flights from Chennai (Madras).

There are also convenient over night trains from Chennai.

You could also travel from Chennai to Madurai by car.
Recommendation
Madurai is a beautiful temple city and the gateway to the South.

You can even make it a base to see different places in the South.